What does water beading really tell us?

wifehatescar

My L5-S1 is killing me!
So I just got my hood repainted 3 weeks ago. I'm sure they buffed it out but did not wax it. I have washed it twice in the past 3 weeks but have not done anything else to it. It just rained today and it beads just as good as the rest of the car (EXP 3 months old under Natty's 1 month old)

Makes me wondering if beading is just a function of if a surface is clean/contamination free, not necessarily having a wax or something on it. :dunno
 
On the new painted area its the oils in the new paint that are beading. As the clear coat ages and the CC cured it loose a certain amount of the oils, thihs will cut down on the amount of beading that you will see, and then oxdadtion wil occur.Polishing anmd waxing add those ols back to the surface and keep the oxadation down
 
My paint guy told me I could wax it after a couple days because it would be cured. :dunno

He said *he* always thought waxing was ok a few days after paint, i.e. the paint was mostly cured by then.

I am still waiting 3-4 weeks anyway just cause I'm paranoid.
 
My paint guy told me 3-4 weeks :dunno I don't think it really matters. I think the idea is that the paint is still a little softer then normal for the first few weeks so waxing can induce more scratches than normal. But I'm sure if you do it gently and by hand with microfiber, it would probably be okay. But hey, i'm no expert!
 
actually beading is a result of surface tension and yes a well painted surface that was buffed well will bead as well as just a polished surface or a waxed surface...but remember right now your painted areas have no protection other than the paint/cc
 
Thanks for the advice. It's been 3 weeks so I'll be waxing soon anyway (and PCing to remove the damn paintshop rotary swirls) soon.
 
I had my hood roof and trunk repainted - body shop said 30 days minimum but other pros have said 1 week to 3 months!! - You can use a glaze like 3M imperial hand glaze if you miss applying product :)
 
I'm retired from DuPont. I didn't work where Rain Dance was made, but I remember reading that they measured the angle of the water droplet where it met the paint to prove the DuPont product was superior.......
 
I'm retired from DuPont. I didn't work where Rain Dance was made, but I remember reading that they measured the angle of the water droplet where it met the paint to prove the DuPont product was superior.......

:huh::dunno:
 
From what I understand...

What most people attribute to a film surface protection being functional is the visual indicator of water beading on the paint film surface. However, all water beading proves is that high surface tension is present, just because a product creates high surface tension, (water beading or sheeting) does not guarantee the coating is actually providing real and meaningful protection.

A polymer layer comprises long molecules that form a hard, dense flat mesh that lies on the top of the much smaller paint molecule. Polymers are hydrophobic [lacking an affinity for water] the surface is smooth which in part causes ‘water sheeting’.

Carnauba Wax is inherently hydroscopic [readily taking up and retaining moisture] when exposed to water, wax swells and closes its pores, ‘beading’ simply means that a high surface tension is present.

Some waxes and/or sealants make water bead up on the surface, and some make water sheet off. If you chose a wax or sealant that sheets, then it will never bead, whether there is wax or sealant present or not. Most of the wax and sealant products seem pretty clear cut on how they react, either beading or sheeting.

Then there is the argument which is better beading or sheeting? Some folks like the sheeting better (keeps paint cleaner etc.) and other prefer beading. The smaller the beads the better the way cool factor.

IMHO - The days of "beading is relational to protection" are long gone with grandpa Simonizing the Oldsmobile.
 
Good point. I sometimes wonder how much sealing/waxing really benefits the clear coat. So what if water doesn't bead, the rains drops dry in a less organized fashion?
 
Merlin....Simonizing the Olds???? I wouldn't dare! :rofl

Here's one for ya'. Vintage 1930s-1940s 7 oz. Car Polish Tin

yellow-simoiz.jpg
 
Here's one for ya'. Vintage 1930s-1940s 7 oz. Car Polish Tin

I have a can of Simonize like that in my collection, it smells like some type of harsh solvent... I used to pass it around in all the Detailing 101 classes I taught for Meguiar's to let people see that on the side of the can it listed Soy Bean Finishes as a type of paint you could use it on...

Then I would tie that into how paint have changed over the years...

Cool stuff...

:)
 
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