tuscarora dave
"Luck" Residue of design
Hi everyone, this was my first later model Corvette paint correction. I would like to start by saying "they" do not exaggerate when "they" say that the clear is extremely hard on these cars. This job was for a brand new client and now that it's done he tells me that I'll be getting all of his cars from now on and 10 cars a month from his auto sales business.
This job took me 4 days (27 hours) to complete because at first I treated it like some of the other hard clears that I had previously polished up. I totally underestimated the hardness.
The car was first washed with ONR then I did an alcohol wipedown before claying using S.M. Arnold medium clay with ONR as lube.
Then I taped off the car to protect the trim and edges from possible burns on the trim pieces or from striking through on the edges with the rotary polisher.
The first round of polishing consisted of a test section first in where the lighting had tricked my eyes into believing that I was getting the results I was after so I ran with that process which was,
Menzerna Power Gloss on Makita rotary, 5.5" orange LC CCS pad @ 2000 RPM 6 section passes.
Optimum Polish 2 on Makita rotary, 6" white Edge 2000 finishing pad @ 2000 RPM 4 section passes.
Optimum Finish Polish on Flex 3401, 5.5" red LC VC pad @ speed setting 6, 4 section passes.
LSP was DG #111
This was 2 - 8 hour days of prep work and polishing.
Despite my test section results (or what I thought were good results) I once again learned the lesson of not assuming that I am getting the results I am after. The client actually helped me to wipe the LSP off of the car and then we got out the halogen lights and could see that I had not actually got the results I was after. This process with these products normally yields great results on hard clears but I hadn't done a black Corvette yet. This was Friday evening so I told the client that I would be back on Tuesday to resume polishing after I consulted the forums to get a new plan together.
I posted a thread asking for suggestions as to what products/processes would get the results I was after. Id like to thank all of the forum members who contributed to that thread. I'd like to give a big thanks to Dana (Asphalt Rocket) for calling me and getting me straightened out with a good plan.
Tuesday I went back in and tried a white 5.5" LC VC pad and M-105 on the rotary @ 1000 RPM and after the polish began to dry up on me I misted the panel with water to reactivate the polish and did a few additional passes. This worked great. I got this idea from the Kevin Brown Method for rotary polishers.
I finished with M-205 on the Makita rotary with a 5.5" red LC VC finishing pad, 4 section passes @ 1000 RPM and 2 section passes @ 600 RPM to jewel the paint.
LSP was Collinite # 845 Insulator wax.
The wheels were pulled from the car and the barrels cleaned and clayed using Citra-Plus citrus cleaner and S.M. Arnold medium clay then topped with Collinite # 845 Insulator Wax
Wheel wells, shocks, brake calipers and control arms were cleaned with citrus cleaner and a pure bristle parts cleaning brush then wiped clean and dressed with Dress-Up silicone based dressing. (except for calipers & rotors of course)
So here are some before and during photos.
Here are some after photos, sorry no sun shots as the client had the keys and at 1000 horse power I wouldn't have wanted to move it anyway.
Overall I learned a lot doing this Car. I finally got the hang of the M-105 and M-205. I have a whole new respect for hard clear coat. I have a new and very happy client who will be a regular from here on out. To say that this car was a challenge would really be an understatement. It took all the will power and patience that I had to get through it. Most importantly I pulled it off with no mishaps.
Thanks for looking, TD
This job took me 4 days (27 hours) to complete because at first I treated it like some of the other hard clears that I had previously polished up. I totally underestimated the hardness.
The car was first washed with ONR then I did an alcohol wipedown before claying using S.M. Arnold medium clay with ONR as lube.
Then I taped off the car to protect the trim and edges from possible burns on the trim pieces or from striking through on the edges with the rotary polisher.
The first round of polishing consisted of a test section first in where the lighting had tricked my eyes into believing that I was getting the results I was after so I ran with that process which was,
Menzerna Power Gloss on Makita rotary, 5.5" orange LC CCS pad @ 2000 RPM 6 section passes.
Optimum Polish 2 on Makita rotary, 6" white Edge 2000 finishing pad @ 2000 RPM 4 section passes.
Optimum Finish Polish on Flex 3401, 5.5" red LC VC pad @ speed setting 6, 4 section passes.
LSP was DG #111
This was 2 - 8 hour days of prep work and polishing.
Despite my test section results (or what I thought were good results) I once again learned the lesson of not assuming that I am getting the results I am after. The client actually helped me to wipe the LSP off of the car and then we got out the halogen lights and could see that I had not actually got the results I was after. This process with these products normally yields great results on hard clears but I hadn't done a black Corvette yet. This was Friday evening so I told the client that I would be back on Tuesday to resume polishing after I consulted the forums to get a new plan together.
I posted a thread asking for suggestions as to what products/processes would get the results I was after. Id like to thank all of the forum members who contributed to that thread. I'd like to give a big thanks to Dana (Asphalt Rocket) for calling me and getting me straightened out with a good plan.
Tuesday I went back in and tried a white 5.5" LC VC pad and M-105 on the rotary @ 1000 RPM and after the polish began to dry up on me I misted the panel with water to reactivate the polish and did a few additional passes. This worked great. I got this idea from the Kevin Brown Method for rotary polishers.
I finished with M-205 on the Makita rotary with a 5.5" red LC VC finishing pad, 4 section passes @ 1000 RPM and 2 section passes @ 600 RPM to jewel the paint.
LSP was Collinite # 845 Insulator wax.
The wheels were pulled from the car and the barrels cleaned and clayed using Citra-Plus citrus cleaner and S.M. Arnold medium clay then topped with Collinite # 845 Insulator Wax
Wheel wells, shocks, brake calipers and control arms were cleaned with citrus cleaner and a pure bristle parts cleaning brush then wiped clean and dressed with Dress-Up silicone based dressing. (except for calipers & rotors of course)
So here are some before and during photos.
Here are some after photos, sorry no sun shots as the client had the keys and at 1000 horse power I wouldn't have wanted to move it anyway.
Overall I learned a lot doing this Car. I finally got the hang of the M-105 and M-205. I have a whole new respect for hard clear coat. I have a new and very happy client who will be a regular from here on out. To say that this car was a challenge would really be an understatement. It took all the will power and patience that I had to get through it. Most importantly I pulled it off with no mishaps.
Thanks for looking, TD
