Rookie Practice Session

AustinVette said:
I probably have some Nu Finish in the garage, but I suspect there's something better.
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Oh geeze! Send the man some Natty's, Steve! Please! :D

Austin, sounds like you're off to a great start.

One minor terminology correction... "Polish" is used to correct and shine the paint, e.g. M105, M205, SSR2.5, SSR1, etc. "Wax" is a Last Step Product (LSP), used to protect the newly polished finish. You can use products containing carnauba wax such as the Natty's line, AND/OR a synthetic sealant like EX-P, as a LSP.

WASH --> CLAY --> COMPOUND -->POLISH 2 --> POLISH 1 --> GLAZE --> LSP (SEALANT, and/or WAX ...in that order) OR A COMBINATION PRODUCT

*** all steps not necessary on all cars ***

Good luck!
 
Before::(
taurus-1.jpg


After :cheers:
taurus-2.jpg


Wash --> Clay --> PC7424 --> Orange / M105 --> White / M205 --> Blue / LSP

♠Al :dcrules
 
Great job, Al!

Here's a suggestion: Try the white/M205 combination on that left headlight. Should clear it up nicely. The photo shows the left lens cloudy. Is that accurate, or just a lighting thing?
 
Re: Rookie Practice Session - vehicle #2

The Taurus is complete and I've moved on to my sons F-150. The finish on the truck is in much better shape than the vintage Taurus so I used the LC orange pad and m105 only on the scratches. My question is: How far can I go trying to correct a scratch? Is something like this even repairable without new paint?
truck1.jpg


The whole truck was washed and clayed then I used and LC white and M205 on the rest of the truck.

Here are a couple of pics:
truck4.jpg

truck2.jpg

truck3.jpg

-Al
 
AustinVette said:
Excellent Advice!!!! Thanks
light.jpg
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That's what I'm talkin' 'bout! Nice!!!
(Keep the lens covers sealed with a LSP, or they will yellow rather quickly after polishing.)

On the F150, the general rule on scratches... if you can catch your fingernail on it, the scratch cannot be polished out. BUT.. most scratches can be significantly improved with an aggressive pad and compound. Then polish out the compounding marks with a finer polish/pad combo.

Hey, since the truck is in the family, and if you're still itchin' to get into wet sanding... cut a strip of 1500 grit sandpaper about twice as wide as your index finger, soak it in soapy water for an hour or more, wrap it around your fingertip, sand lightly at first, wetting the paint with water from a spray bottle. Those sanding marks will easily polish out. Stay away from body ridges and seams.

Good luck!
 
Has anyone watched the "Junkman" videos on youtube? This guy seems you have a conservative approach to sanding scratches on a car. He starts with 2500 and finishes with 3000 and recommends a paint thickness gauge. What do you all think? Does anyone have a paint thickness gauge?

YouTube - ‪Wet Sanding 101 - Part 1‬‎

This is what I had originally planned for the taurus scratches.

(There are 5 or six videos in the series.)

-Al
 
I have seen most of the Junkman videos. He promotes Adam's products while he entertains people. He does not recommend aggressive techniques or products since his primary audience is usually newbie's. For example, he thinks products like the Flex and M105 are too dangerous for a typical Adam's user or potential user. If you videos etc, you are opening yourself up for complaints, so being conservative makes good legal and business sense.
 
black bart said:
by Peachtree Woodworking Sounds like wood working sand paper, Not what you want to use on paint.
You can get some 1500 at Auto-zone and it won't cost but a fraction of what that kit cost.
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Micro Mesh is frequently used for auto paint. I find that it's actually a cheaper way to experiment with various ultra-fine grit sandpaper. When I found the grits that worked best for me, I bought packs of regular sandpaper.

Micro Mesh is foam backed, small (2"x2"), and up to 12,000 grit. Not idiot proof, but it helps remove the inconsistency of hand sanding by a beginner like me. For someone who wet sands maybe two or three scratches a year (me) this is perfect.
 
JohnHenry said:
Micro Mesh is frequently used for auto paint. I find that it's actually a cheaper way to experiment with various ultra-fine grit sandpaper. When I found the grits that worked best for me, I bought packs of regular sandpaper.

Micro Mesh is foam backed, small (2"x2"), and up to 12,000 grit. Not idiot proof, but it helps remove the inconsistency of hand sanding by a beginner like me. For someone who wet sands maybe two or three scratches a year (me) this is perfect.
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I have not used that product.

When repainting or just sanding out a scratch I buy all of my supplies from a local auto paint supply.

I would never sand on a body panel without using a quality rubber sanding block.

I have several of them of different shapes and hardness depending on what I'm trying to accomplish.

For what that kit cost I can buy a LOT of 3M sand paper that is made specifically for wet sanding auto paint.

IMO it is best to use products made for the job you are going to do.
Sanding with your fingers will result in an uneven surface.

Careful block sanding is how you make a average paint job look like a show car finnish. :rockon
 
Micro Mesh is recommended and used by some well respected FL detailers. Their employers don't sell the stuff, so they shall remain nameless.

I ain't got a dog in this fight, just reporting that I, as a newby wetsander, scared to death of a sanding block, have experienced great results with the little foam backed very fine grit Micro Mesh pads.



FWIW
 
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