clearcoat scratch repair

D

Djunior

New member
I can tell there are some VERY knowledgeable people here so I thought I'd give this problem a shot here. I searched many threads to see if it's already on here, but could not find it.

My bike is Harley Vivid Black. I have a scratch on the gas tank that I can tell does not go deep enough that it is in the actual paint, just the clearcoat.

Still, it is about as deep a clearcoat scratch as you can get without getting into the paint. So I do not want to rub it down with ANY kind of scratch remover compound. I do not want to remove that much of the clearcoat.

I have a bottle of Vivid Black touch-up paint, that came with a bottle of clearcoat. I'm assuming it's an exact match to the clearcoat that is from the factory. My question is, could I spread some of the clearcoat into the scratch (with a very small paintbruch) to fill it, then sand and polish and fix this thing?

If it's doable, I might try it, though I have never done any of this kind of work before. So, I'd have questions such as what grit paper to use, and so on. I thought much of the sticky thread on "chip repair" would be applicable here. Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
 
Well, I got an answer to my own question. When I went to check my posting, the website had automatically produced a list of similar posts. One that seemed very similar was started by Tuscarora Dave in June of 2009. Of the many responses, the one below seemed very helpful. As always thanks to all for the invaluable information....Read below for the response

"I would suggest polishing it first (not necessarily the entire car, but the scratch area) just to see how much polishing improves it. Then, as dr detail said, once the choice is made where you want to go with this, you can either polish a couple more times to cover more of it up slightly, or go with filling it in little by little.

Just note that filling it in is never as easy as it sounds an it's long and tedious process. You have to fill it in little by little, allowing the layers below to dry, until you're level with the paint. Then wet sanding and buffing to make it unnoticeable.

Definitely polish it first with a more aggressive combo then do a IPA wipe down to see what happens. It should improve it at least a bit. "
 
Oh, I thought I might ask Tuscaror Dave, how did you end up approaching that job, and how did it come out?
DJunior
 
FYI TD is off to the Poorboy's Detail weekend so he might not be visiting the site this weekend. So be just a bit patient while awaiting a reply.

Hard for me to tell the extent of the scratch by your description. Can you catch a nail (that's a finger nail for clarification) on the scratch?
 
Re: clear-coat scratch repair

You don't need clear coat clean the scratch use a tooth pick and put some of that paint in it.

It should take 2 or 3 times to fill it you apply very little at a time and let it dry.

when filled and dry sand with 1500 paper and polish you will not see the repair

If you fill it with clear coat it will look good for a while but then in time it will show.
 
Thanks Mr. Clean and it's no problem I don't need to be in a hurry and can wait until TD is able to reply.

I checked, and no, I can't catch a nail in the scratch.

And that is interesting Black Bart, that I would use the paint and not the clearcoat. From a novice point of view it seems like if the scratch only involved the clearcoat due to lack of depth, then clearcoat would be the thing to use. But yours and everyone's experience here is what I am looking for before I act.

Also, the toothpick idea will be put to use. Makes sense, because even the smallest brush will smear onto areas that don't need it, and would then just have to be sanded off. I'll get some 1500 grit paper. I think I've seen some in the detailing dept at Wal-Mart. Unless anyone has a more specific recommendation about sandpaper. Is 1500 grit pretty much 1500 grit regardless of where you get it or what brand etc? Or is some better than others?
Thanks again,
DJunior
 
Djunior said:
Oh, I thought I might ask Tuscaror Dave, how did you end up approaching that job, and how did it come out?
DJunior
Click to expand...

The owner of that Denali and I could not come into agreement on a fair price to do the job (it would have been a full paint correction) so I passed on doing it. If I were to come across the same repair I would do exactly what Black Bart said to do. They don't call him Black Bart for no reason;) The finer the sand paper the better. I think WalMart carries 2000 grit 3M paper, I would use that.
 
Djunior said:
Thanks Mr. Clean and it's no problem I don't need to be in a hurry and can wait until TD is able to reply.

I checked, and no, I can't catch a nail in the scratch.

And that is interesting Black Bart, that I would use the paint and not the clearcoat. From a novice point of view it seems like if the scratch only involved the clearcoat due to lack of depth, then clearcoat would be the thing to use. But yours and everyone's experience here is what I am looking for before I act.

Also, the toothpick idea will be put to use. Makes sense, because even the smallest brush will smear onto areas that don't need it, and would then just have to be sanded off. I'll get some 1500 grit paper. I think I've seen some in the detailing dept at Wal-Mart. Unless anyone has a more specific recommendation about sandpaper. Is 1500 grit pretty much 1500 grit regardless of where you get it or what brand etc? Or is some better than others?
Thanks again,
DJunior
Click to expand...
If you have a very small scratch you can use the clear coat but on anything like a rock chip it will look good for about 2 years and then you will see a ring where it was repaired.

I like 3M paper but anything will do for such a small job and yes 1500 grit is the same you can usually find it at Autozone also.

Since what you are talking about is paint repair not paint correction you may want to take your questions to a forum like this instead of a detailing forum .

How to Paint Your Car, Enthusiast Auto Body Discussion Forum & Videos • Body and Paint • AutoBody101.com
 
Yes you can use 2000 like Dave said they also make 2500 and 3000
I should have ask you what you are going to use to polish with.

I have a Makita rotary and with a wool pad I could take out the 1500 sanding marks in about 20 seconds but if you are polishing by hand you can spend more time sanding with finer grit and less time polishing.

Some place near you should be automotive store that sells paint, Go their and buy a flexible sanding block you will need it to do this right.

They are not expensive only a few dollars.
The paint will shrink so build it up slightly above the surface and then after it is dry sand it level.
Like I posted above I would take you questions to a painting forum people here are experts at polishing and waxing less on painting.
 
Djunior said:
I can tell there are some VERY knowledgeable people here so I thought I'd give this problem a shot here. I searched many threads to see if it's already on here, but could not find it.

My bike is Harley Vivid Black. I have a scratch on the gas tank that I can tell does not go deep enough that it is in the actual paint, just the clearcoat.

Still, it is about as deep a clearcoat scratch as you can get without getting into the paint. So I do not want to rub it down with ANY kind of scratch remover compound. I do not want to remove that much of the clearcoat.

I have a bottle of Vivid Black touch-up paint, that came with a bottle of clearcoat. I'm assuming it's an exact match to the clearcoat that is from the factory. My question is, could I spread some of the clearcoat into the scratch (with a very small paintbruch) to fill it, then sand and polish and fix this thing?

If it's doable, I might try it, though I have never done any of this kind of work before. So, I'd have questions such as what grit paper to use, and so on. I thought much of the sticky thread on "chip repair" would be applicable here. Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Djunior said:
Thanks Mr. Clean and it's no problem I don't need to be in a hurry and can wait until TD is able to reply.

I checked, and no, I can't catch a nail in the scratch.

And that is interesting Black Bart, that I would use the paint and not the clearcoat. From a novice point of view it seems like if the scratch only involved the clearcoat due to lack of depth, then clearcoat would be the thing to use. But yours and everyone's experience here is what I am looking for before I act.

Also, the toothpick idea will be put to use. Makes sense, because even the smallest brush will smear onto areas that don't need it, and would then just have to be sanded off. I'll get some 1500 grit paper. I think I've seen some in the detailing dept at Wal-Mart. Unless anyone has a more specific recommendation about sandpaper. Is 1500 grit pretty much 1500 grit regardless of where you get it or what brand etc? Or is some better than others?
Thanks again,
DJunior
Click to expand...
I don't know without looking at it in person, but your description would sure give me pause and reflect if the first thing I would do would be to break out the sandpaper.
 
Mr. Clean said:
I don't know without looking at it in person, but your description would sure give me pause and reflect if the first thing I would do would be to break out the sandpaper.
Click to expand...
I think you misunderstood he is going to fill the scratch then wet sand to level it and than polish it.
 
I'm going to do the buffing by hand. And in doing the fingernail test, I could not even feel it, let alone catch a nail in it. It's probably not as deep as a first thought, and described on my post. One thing I did not mention in that post though, was that before I wrote any of that, I did use a scratch remover compound on it, so I probably sort of rounded off the edges, making it less likely to catch a nail.

Anyway, I do think it's shallow enough to use clearcoat. Then I'll wet sand and buff. I'm nervous about taking sandpaper to it, but it's obviously something that can be done.

Thanks for the tip on the other forum, Black Bart. I'll use it. You guys did get me the info I needed here for this job, though, and I appreciate it.
Djunior
 
Djunior said:
I'm going to do the buffing by hand. And in doing the fingernail test, I could not even feel it, let alone catch a nail in it. It's probably not as deep as a first thought, and described on my post. One thing I did not mention in that post though, was that before I wrote any of that, I did use a scratch remover compound on it, so I probably sort of rounded off the edges, making it less likely to catch a nail.

Anyway, I do think it's shallow enough to use clearcoat. Then I'll wet sand and buff. I'm nervous about taking sandpaper to it, but it's obviously something that can be done.

Thanks for the tip on the other forum, Black Bart. I'll use it. You guys did get me the info I needed here for this job, though, and I appreciate it.
Djunior
Click to expand...
Now we have a whole new scenario from the first post, it now sounds like you could remove it by polishing.

Different vehicles vary as to how much clear coat they have and I don't know about Harley but 6 years ago I had a tonneau cover put on my Ford Ranger and when they got it done they ran it outside and told me I was ready to go.

I paid him and drove home only to find that they had dropped the frame work on my truck and put a deep scratch on the rear fender.

I could catch my finger in it but I wet sanded it out.

When finished the floor looked like I had dumped a gallon of milk man I can't believe that I had that much clear on it but I polished out the sanding marks and it looks like new.

I did not bother calling the guy that installed it because he would have denied it, The fact that he did not mention it proves he is dishonest.

I will not go back their and I have told many local people about it, He would have been ahead if he had admitted to what he had done.
 
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