Toyota Camry- Dwayne's Parent's Car

Troy@Protekt

Troy@Protekt

a.k.a. Troy@DetailCity
This is Dwayne's parent's car. I've always been the one to detail it even when Dwayne lived here. :notme:

I don't know if it was because they have seen Dwayne's work compared to mine or what. :D

Anyways, here it is. The paint didn't have a whole lot of micro marring but it did have some deep water spot etching. Once again I turned to M105 to work it's magic and again I was pleasantly surprised how well it did. I wet sanded an area to attack the water spots, but unfortunately they were too deep.:( Even with some residual water spot etching the paint still turned out pretty awesome for the amount of polishing I did.

One thing I am discovering is that I find myself buffing more effectively using the FLEX at 4 or 5 speed and a polishing pad then my usual method of speed 6 with a cutting pad. I am buffing on a warm surface so I'm sure it's because the polish is staying wetter longer. The slower speed allows for better control of the buffer too. You can tilt the polisher very slightly on your first pass to allow it to bite into the finish which makes for more effective cutting. On your last couple of passes you buff as flat as possible to finish out the best.

As I just mentioned I used M-105 and the FLEX with a Four Star 6.5" polishing pad. Then followed up with UPP by hand. No multi-step compounding/polishing was needed :yay

I've done quite a few dull neglected paint finishes this week and each time I am amazed at how fast I can get the paint corrected and finished using the M-105. I know it sounds like Meguiar's is paying me to endorse this stuff but they aren't. In fact I feel a little funny raving about it knowing that the sponsors here probably don't appreciate it.:redface:

Don't worry Poorboy, I am still a fan.;)

left-trunk-before.jpg


left-trunk-after.jpg


engine-before.jpg


engine-after.jpg


after-1.jpg


after-2.jpg


after-3.jpg
 
with all the money Dwayne's making he should just buy them a new car instead of having it detailed :rofl:lmfao:lol2:

you could have at least used Bold N Bright on the tires :stick
 
Keep talking up that 105...that'll end up costing me on the front end, but saving me on the back end. :)

But lets break the PC back out. ;) That's where this product is supposed to excel above and beyond other products. That and combination cutting/finishing time savings. I've got the PC and rotary, I really don't wan't to "need" another polisher. :surrender
Poorboy said:
...you could have at least used Bold N Bright on the tires :stick
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Are you saying he didn't? :huh: :)

Edit to add: I really like the little photoshop trick of placing your logo over the plate. Good idea.
 
:cool: Lookin:inspector: Good Troy,why hasn't anyone removed dealer badge on deck lid? They have probally just had enough of Dwayne's hack jobs :rockon (j/k) Geek.
 
Troy@DetailCity said:
This is Dwayne's parent's car. I've always been the one to detail it even when Dwayne lived here. :notme:

I don't know if it was because they have seen Dwayne's work compared to mine or what. :D
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They just shopped around and went with the cheapest guy they could find. :gotcha:

Just kidding! They trust you because I gave your work my stamp of approval.

Thanks for shining up the Camry for my parents. It needed it.
 
Mr. Clean said:
I've got the PC and rotary, I really don't wan't to "need" another polisher. :surrender
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You don't "need" another polisher. I will say if I had to use only one polisher it would definitely be the FLEX.

I have used the M105 with my PC and it worked well but did not compare to how well it worked with the FLEX. Someone on the phone was asking me what polisher kit I would recommend for correcting paint. I was happy to throw the Ferrari analogy at him.:D

I recommended the FLEX/Meguiar's kit we sell and told him the FLEX was like a Ferrari compared to the PC being more like a nice reliable Camry. I took it a step further and likened the M105 to high octane racing fuel.:D

What can I say I like analogies.

BTW, the front of the car was in the shade when I did the paint correction so that's why I didn't have any before and afters other than the trunk. Sheila helped me and did the interior. She took some nice before pictures but didn't take any afters.:hmmm:
 
Troy@DetailCity said:
You don't "need" another polisher. I will say if I had to use only one polisher it would definitely be the FLEX.

I have used the M105 with my PC and it worked well but did not compare to how well it worked with the FLEX. Someone on the phone was asking me what polisher kit I would recommend for correcting paint. I was happy to throw my Ferrari analogy at him.:D

I recommended the FLEX/Meguiar's kit we sell and told him the FLEX was like a Ferrari compared to the PC being more like a nice reliable Camry. I took it a step further and likened the M105 to high octane racing fuel.:D

What can I say I like analogies.
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:cool: Yes analolgies I like 2:1) Like you can't turn chicken sh*t,into chicken salad. LADIES...
This is 1 my jr. high football coach use to drill us with...:rant:
2)What IF? If tha Queen had a package...She would be King.:nana:
3) If I did perfect work I would have to charge more....(I stole this from you :rockon)
 
Troy - I would really like to see you post a detailed or step by step on removing the etched water spots. As soon as I get the FLEX, I am going to try to get these off my truck's roof and hood and I'd like to see how you go about it.

Nice work.
 
There really is no secret to it. As I said I didn't get all of them on this car. I don't use a paint gauge so I tend to error on the side of caution when it comes to leveling paint.

Water spots are like scratches. Some are just on the surface and can be taken off chemically, and some are etched into the finish. If they are etched then you test an area to see how bad. In this case I jumped on it with the 105 and the FLEX. I might have seen better correction pulling out the rotary but I chose not to. Instead I hit the test spot pretty aggressively with 1500 sandpaper and they really didn't improve much.

That's as aggressive as I was going to get on this car. Now if I was really wanting to take them out I would have gone to 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper but that's adding steps and time and most importantly risk. Not to mention shortening the life of the paint and decreasing the amount of depth your paint will have from that point.

Now regarding your truck. What have you tried so far?
 
Troy@DetailCity said:
There really is no secret to it. As I said I didn't get all of them on this car. I don't use a paint gauge so I tend to error on the side of caution when it comes to leveling paint.

Water spots are like scratches. Some are just on the surface and can be taken off chemically, and some are etched into the finish. If they are etched then you test an area to see how bad. In this case I jumped on it with the 105 and the FLEX. I might have seen better correction pulling out the rotary but I chose not to. Instead I hit the test spot pretty aggressively with 1500 sandpaper and they really didn't improve much.

That's as aggressive as I was going to get on this car. Now if I was really wanting to take them out I would have gone to 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper but that's adding steps and time and most importantly risk. Not to mention shortening the life of the paint and decreasing the amount of depth your paint will have from that point.

Now regarding your truck. What have you tried so far?
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If memory serves me well:Jared was using 105/205 w/PC.:thinking
 
Troy@DetailCity said:
There really is no secret to it. As I said I didn't get all of them on this car. I don't use a paint gauge so I tend to error on the side of caution when it comes to leveling paint.

Water spots are like scratches. Some are just on the surface and can be taken off chemically, and some are etched into the finish. If they are etched then you test an area to see how bad. In this case I jumped on it with the 105 and the FLEX. I might have seen better correction pulling out the rotary but I chose not to. Instead I hit the test spot pretty aggressively with 1500 sandpaper and they really didn't improve much.

That's as aggressive as I was going to get on this car. Now if I was really wanting to take them out I would have gone to 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper but that's adding steps and time and most importantly risk. Not to mention shortening the life of the paint and decreasing the amount of depth your paint will have from that point.

Now regarding your truck. What have you tried so far?
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So as to not dirty up this thread anymore and get it off topic, I'll post my response in the thread I started earlier regarding this topic.

http://www.detailcity.org/forums/de...-water-spot-etching.html?highlight=water+spot
 
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