Suggestions for a Automotive Degreaser

L

Lonnie

Active member
This request for suggestions for an automotive degreaser is an extension of a Ron K.`s thread on lack of reading by end-user of detailing product and material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) as it related to knowing what chemicals are in those detailing products and how to use them safely and the necessary Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) needed to do so for one`s personal safety, as the name implies.

One of my BIG pet peeves is how many so-called "automotive" degreasers are actually not very "safe" for automotive use. When I mean "Safe" I define that by saying it will not harm or discolor aluminum or other metal alloys so prevalent on today`s vehicles. Whether its aluminum rims or engine compartment fittings or suspension components, today`s vehicles use those metals to reduce weight and increase gas mileage or for special needs and their application with advancements in vehicle technology (like titanium or copper alloys). There are a host of automotive degreasers out there, but when the product able says "DO NOT ALLOW TO DWELL ON ALUMINUM WITHOUT RINSING", that kind of throws the kibosh and raises a red flag on it for my personal use for degreasing an engine or cleaning wheel wells.

I say that because I recently bought Genlabs in Chino, CA. Super Heavy-Duty Degreaser (Product Code 01724) distributed and sold by Harbor Freight Tools. It was inexpensive, and come on, if it`s sold by Harbor Freights, it`s gotta be OK. I saw some positive reviews online about it, so I bought it.
Used it to clean my driveway after a home construction project has left clay mud EVERYWHERE from the contractor`s footsteps, which was the real reason I bought it. My other intent was to use this to clean wheel wells in fenders during my 2-bucket wash, which I did for BOTH intended purposes.
Then I read the label after using it. RIGHT THERE on the label:
"Do not use for daily maintenance of floors unless used in 200 to 1 dilutions. Do not use on soft metals such as aluminum, alloy, zinc, and copper." A little late on my part reading that label safety information!
It is a good cleaner for removing grease or oil on concrete.

I have used Optimum`s Polymer Technologies Power Clean (OPT-PC) as my go-to degreaser. Works very well for me, but it is a little expensive.
I know it is safe for aluminum IF diluted per label instructions. And yes, I have called the OPT Customer Service hotline for its verification of that.
Which leads to my request for suggestion for other degreasers. I am looking something that is:
1) Safe for aluminum
2) Cost-effective (AKA inexpensive or cheap)
3) Effective in removing grease or debris in engine compartments and wheel wells.

I will not consider using Simple Green OTC because of its well-documented effects on aluminum. It is good for cleaning stainless steel or glass coffee pots and ceramic coffee cups. And yes, I am aware of their Professional Simple Green which supposidly IS safe for use on aluminum
Then there is SuperCleanBrand LLC`s (formerly Castrol) Super Clean OTC. Again it is not "safe for aluminum, but it is my go-to cleaner for 2-bucket wash media and polishing pads. Yes it sounds hypocritical to be using for car-care equipment items, but NOT directly for vehicles. Needless to say, they`re are well-rinsed and squeezed out of excess water before being re-used.

And , yes, I am open to suggestions for industrial degreasers that may cross-over for use in the automotive cleaning world, as long as they are safe for aluminum. You know as well as I do that there are probably a plethora of them. One that I have used is Stearn`s Packaging Jungle Jack`s Degreaser, but that too is mostly for cleaning garage floors and lawn-care tools.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions , experiences, and comments on degreasers.
 
I thought after all that stink about Simple Green and aluminum, they came out with a specific one that was aluminum-safe. Maybe they don`t make that anymore.

As you have noted, Optimum Power Clean (OPC) is great, but it`s kinda expensive. Best thing I`ve ever used for cleaning off synthetic motor oil, though. The other thing that has turned me off a little to OPC is the warning that the undiluted product can etch glass, which makes me kind of wary of spraying even diluted where I could get overspray on windows.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I thought after all that stink about Simple Green and aluminum, they came out with a specific one that was aluminum-safe. Maybe they don`t make that anymore.

As you have noted, Optimum Power Clean (OPC) is great, but it`s kinda expensive. Best thing I`ve ever used for cleaning off synthetic motor oil, though. The other thing that has turned me off a little to OPC is the warning that the undiluted product can etch glass, which makes me kind of wary of spraying even diluted where I could get overspray on windows.
Click to expand...
Was not aware of that etching of glass at full strength. I use it at 3:1 or 4:1.
I have used it to clean a oil-stained carpet floor mat, but the "industrial odor" lingered for about a week, and no, the oil stain did not come out completely. The cleaning was done in the winter, so the cold temps did not help with dissipating the smell. I now use Optimum`s Fabric and Carpet Cleaner for interiors or Poorboy`s Enzyme and Stain Remover along with their Carpet & Fabric Shampoo Concentrate at 6:1 dilution (smells like coconut or pineapple; kinda pina-colada).

But back to degreaser suggestions....
 
I don`t think I have used OPC on carpet--as I believe I have recounted here years ago in another thread, I had changed my oil and thrown the filter in a trash bag that went in the garbage can. Somehow when the garbage men emptied things, I had motor oil all over the garbage can, which I envisioned being an oily mess forever. Fortunately, between OPC and the brush I use for wheel wells, I was able to get the can so clean you would never know it had used motor oil all over it.

I have also had very good luck with the OPT Carpet and Fabric Cleaner (not so much with the sprayer and bottle, however).
 
I have only used, Meguiar`s D103 APC+ at 6:1 for years, let it soak for a few minutes on a cold engine, and then pressure wash it all off..
Never had an issue with different metals, etc., never harmed anything with it...

Looked at all the chemicals in "degreasers", and never wanted to go down that route, thank you... :)

When I finally run out of D103 APC+, I will try D107 Citrus Power Plus...

Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
I have only used, Meguiar`s D103 APC+ at 6:1 for years, let it soak for a few minutes on a cold engine, and then pressure wash it all off..
Never had an issue with different metals, etc., never harmed anything with it...

Looked at all the chemicals in "degreasers", and never wanted to go down that route, thank you... :)

When I finally run out of D103 APC+, I will try D107 Citrus Power Plus...

Dan F
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Stokdg:
You must have bought the 5-gallon container before it was discontinued
Reference thread from January, 2014!!: https://www.autopia.org/forums/everything-else/44401-megs-d103-discontinued.html?highlight=D103

Not sure about orange degreasers, but if Meg`s came out with one, it must be OK. I think the Ready-to-Use (RTU 32-ounce spray bottle) of their D107 Citrus Power Plus Cleaner was introduced first as a test of its marketability and now I THINK it is available in the "normal" Pro-Detailer line gallon jugs. Not sure it is a "replacement" for D103+.

I do see that 3D has a degreaser: Super Duty Degreaser Product Code: 1001OZ64
(I could not find it on the Autopia Store website. It looks like they are discontinuing that manufacturer`s line!)

And what about Meg`s Pro-Detailer Line D108 Super Degreaser??
(NO, that is not sold by the Autopia store, either)

Then there is this degreaser: Scheaffer Citrol 266-1 in the Gallon
Reference:Schaeffer's Citrol 266-1 gallon Multi-purpose Degreaser & Cleaner - Ci – Heintz Sales
It is like Goo-Gone on steroids and priced accordingly!
This was recommended by a gentleman who owns a heavy-equipment & excavating company for use on his machinery.

Former Forum All-Star Chemist togwt recommendeds P21S Total Auto Wash (PS-TAW) with its d-limonene base as a pretty good cleaner.
Reference: https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-detailing/166965-wheel-acid-arsenal-2.html?highlight=limonene
Yes, the referenced thread is about acid wheel cleaners, but see Post #29
 
So what you long-time Autopians are telling me is togwt was/is the equivalent to being the "George Santos"of this forum. (an antonomasia example!)

(Maybe we need to pin ANOTHER title on you Captain Obvious; Captain Gullible!)
 
Hey Lonnie--you`re a longer-time Autopian than either Bill D or I, and I had to look up antonomasia, so I`m refusing to answer and invoking my Fifth Amendment rights.
 
TOGWT`s intentions of spreading detailing knowledge were respectable but back in the day his cutting and pasting that information from other sources without referencing them concerned the staff. There was the thought that Autopia could get in some type of "trouble" if they let him continue.
 
Keep in mind, water borne products have a high ph, which may be corrosive when used on paint, aluminum, most metals, so check the ph when using. Mineral spirits do not rely on corrosive components to desolve/break down hydrocarbon deposits.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Keep in mind, water borne products have a high ph, which may be corrosive when used on paint, aluminum, most metals, so check the ph when using. Mineral spirits do not rely on corrosive components to desolve/break down hydrocarbon deposits.
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OK Ron, that is a good point,
Trying define what is a "degreaser" and what is a "solvent" we run into the semantics that they both remove grease and may inadvertently be use interchangeably, when they really have unique characteristics or properties that make them a "degreaser" or a "solvent".
Suffice it to say, MY definition of a degreaser is something you mix or dilute with water for use in removing oil or grease.
Solvents are organic-based liquids that do not require ADDED water for their use to dissolve or remove oil and grease.
And there in lies the semantics with this definition because solvents CAN and many times DO contain water in their liquid formulations for use; it`s just that the end-user does not add it to the product. Aerosol cans of "degreasers" end up in this grey-area of terminology and completely defy and negate my above definitions, hence the interchangeable semantics.
I assume mineral spirits do not have water in them, much like acetone or kerosene that can be used for grease removal. Turpentine and d-limonene are naturally-derived solvents that may contain water initially, but that water (or some of that water) is removed during the distillation process of production of it concentrate liquid form bought and used by the end consumer.
One reason I am NOT tempted to use solvents within an engine compartment is stronger solvents may soften or dissolve certain plastics so common in an engine bay. Again I go back to your admonition about reading product labels and MSDS information. Digression from that information is my personal rul for its use.

Then we get into the "Ph" terminology of caustic (low ph value or base of less than 7) and acidic (High PH value or acid greater than 7). So the question becomes, "What is a good and safe ph value for a degreaser?". Too mild, and it will not remove the grease. Too caustic or acidic and it will harm softer metals, like aluminum or copper. Just wondering, because I do not know to give a credible recommendation for it`s value and, hence, a degreasing product that has or is close to that value when diluted with water in the manufacturer`s recommended ratios. I assume that the manufacturer has tested and analysed the ph values with different dilution ratios and these are listed/published in the MSDS for the end-used to know.
 
Simple Green Pro HD is the supposedly aluminum-safe version and it`s still available at Lowes, HD etc. Personally, I don`t like it as much as the original green SG. I`ve scrubbed a bunch of engine bays with the green SG and never had any issues with aluminum valve covers, or intakes, but I always dilute it 1:4 and never leave it on long before it`s thoroughly rinsed. The gallon I have of the Pro HD will be my last, as I`m going back to the Green for my next gallon.

Bill
 
Thanks for your responses, fellow Autopians.

Quite honestly, I thought there would have been a "few" more responses of experiences with and opinions of specific degreasers, but it may be be that:
1) It is not a high-priority detailing product to discuss
2) There are not a lot of members viewing this thread topic, hence, fewer comments
3) Many are just bored of your "Suggestions For" thread topics, Captain Obvious.
 
Lonnie said:
Thanks for your responses, fellow Autopians.

Quite honestly, I thought there would have been a "few" more responses of experiences with and opinions of specific degreasers, but it may be be that:
1) It is not a high-priority detailing product to discuss
2) There are not a lot of members viewing this thread topic, hence, fewer comments
3) Many are just bored of your "Suggestions For" thread topics, Captain Obvious.
Click to expand...

sorry don`t get out as much as I used to .. you did`t mention our APC .. basically it`s what you are asking for ... at full strength it`s a degreaser, I`ve also used it for removing nasty northeast pine sap as a wash, and diluted can be safely used on leather seats .. it starts at about a ph of 16 and at about 15 :1 is neutral ..128:1 can be used as a glass cleaner .. would I take a bath in it .. depends what`s on me but at worst it stings open wounds :) yes, Enzyme and Carpet are a killer pair ;)
 
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