Coatings=crack
Active member
I use 1.5oz to two gallons for Mckees. As for Ech20 alot of people seem to use it light. CarPro says add 2-3oz to 3 gallons. Not very scientific..... i add .75 oz per gallon.
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I don’t think a full traditional wash is better than rinseless!
- Thread starter Cadfael
- Start date
I use 1.5oz to two gallons for Mckees. As for Ech20 alot of people seem to use it light. CarPro says add 2-3oz to 3 gallons. Not very scientific..... i add .75 oz per gallon.
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William_Wallace
New member
Does anyone actually mix there rinseless as directed? I was always too scared seemed like it need more product?
I’m the rebel that does lol. I know ONR is significantly more streaky if mixed heavy and doesn’t clean any better (if not worse). I haven’t tried Ech2o as rinseless but mixed it on the weak end of waterless for that purpose and it works fine. Finally used the Griot’s BF yesterday. It seemed ok. I used the two glug to two gallon method because the lid is terrible.
"Take care of" how exactly?? What do you think ONR does, dissolve dirt? Even if it does soften, add lubrication, or heaven forbid `suspend` (BS) dirt particles, you`re not rinsing them away and unless ONR is some form of miracle forcefield (which it isn`t) this can`t be something that is safer than the 2BM/Multiple mitt method after a good pre-wash?
I`ve recently introduced my Father in Law to waterless and rinseless methods (so I do understand the convenience element, and that circumstances can mean it`s the only option). Is a RW or even WW `safer` than traditional bucket and sponge on a dry panel, there`s a strong argument that they might be... but a pre-rinse plus pre-wash, rinse followed by a traditional bucket and sponge and a final rinse, absolutely no way.
Encapsulate means very little without the `forcefield` I mention... as a previous poster stated.. dirt plus pressure = marring.
To your point that the spray of the bottle can do a lot... if it requires a `stream` rather than spray and the nozzle to be pointed pretty close to dislodge dirt surely that`s going to add considerable time (and product) to spray every square centimetre of the lower panels? In my experience you`ll need a more concentrated flow of water to dislodge actual dirt... and you know what gives a great concentrated flow of water - a pressure washer... the manufacturers of some of these products make some of the most outrageous claims present in detailing.
Those who think pre-washes aren`t a more effective and safer way to remove dirt should try Bilt Hamber and report back - doesn`t mean that WW/RWs aren`t quicker or more useful or the only option in certain circumstances.
To your point that the spray of the bottle can do a lot... if it requires a `stream` rather than spray and the nozzle to be pointed pretty close to dislodge dirt surely that`s going to add considerable time (and product) to spray every square centimetre of the lower panels? In my experience you`ll need a more concentrated flow of water to dislodge actual dirt... and you know what gives a great concentrated flow of water - a pressure washer... the manufacturers of some of these products make some of the most outrageous claims present in detailing.
Those who think pre-washes aren`t a more effective and safer way to remove dirt should try Bilt Hamber and report back - doesn`t mean that WW/RWs aren`t quicker or more useful or the only option in certain circumstances.
Stokdgs
dansautodetailing.com
Has anyone seen scientific proof of encapsulation of dirt particles??
Would love to read up on that..
Washed hundreds of vehicles just in my Detailing Business, and I always pressure wash the heck out of them first, including the engine and compartment, underhood, (careful with the insulation if there), underbody, everything, and I have yet to find any other process that will give me a "clean slate" as good as this..
It really helps speed up the next wash with a good soap, a good, long strand, soft, chenille mitt, and careful back and forth motions over the entire vehicle with lots of water rinsing as I go..
The more dirt, mold, little trees growing in the trunk jambs and above the windows I knock off quickly, the better the rest of the wash will be.
I suppose if your vehicle is not even very dirty and you want to go rinseless, that is great.. I am never doing that, thanks..
Dan F
Would love to read up on that..
Washed hundreds of vehicles just in my Detailing Business, and I always pressure wash the heck out of them first, including the engine and compartment, underhood, (careful with the insulation if there), underbody, everything, and I have yet to find any other process that will give me a "clean slate" as good as this..
It really helps speed up the next wash with a good soap, a good, long strand, soft, chenille mitt, and careful back and forth motions over the entire vehicle with lots of water rinsing as I go..
The more dirt, mold, little trees growing in the trunk jambs and above the windows I knock off quickly, the better the rest of the wash will be.
I suppose if your vehicle is not even very dirty and you want to go rinseless, that is great.. I am never doing that, thanks..
Dan F
BudgetPlan1
Active member
Don`t forget individual ability. As I "Know Thyself..." quite well, rinseless/waterless would not be in my wheelhouse so to speak. Tried it a few times with the Big Red Sponge, mutiple waterless wash specific towels, ONR, McKees and well...lets just say that my black Subaru did not appreciate my best efforts. 
DetailZeus
New member
Encapsulation, anti-redeposition, suspension of dirt particles is not mutually exclusive to rinseless & waterless wash solutions. Your quality bucket shampoo can do this too. The bigger difference is you can dry your car without leaving a visible soapy "film" behind.
danlc95
Member
I haven`t owned soap in years.
If the vehicle is gross I pre spray with Power Clean 3:1, power wash the daylights out of it, and use a rinseless to finish. At the shop where I work a couple days a week I`ll use Megs Hyper Wash, or Reset, but the owner told me to give him a list of the stuff I use, and to utilize my process there.
I do not see myself ever using traditional soap ever again, well, until I buy or build a tunnel wash - again.
The cars in the family get washed a couple times a week. Usually ONR 256:1. Seems to work better if I slightly under use the concentrate. I currently have Optimum Car Wax on all of them.
It took a long time for me to give rinseless a fair shot. I didn`t want to like it, but ended becoming an integral part of my process.
If the vehicle is gross I pre spray with Power Clean 3:1, power wash the daylights out of it, and use a rinseless to finish. At the shop where I work a couple days a week I`ll use Megs Hyper Wash, or Reset, but the owner told me to give him a list of the stuff I use, and to utilize my process there.
I do not see myself ever using traditional soap ever again, well, until I buy or build a tunnel wash - again.
The cars in the family get washed a couple times a week. Usually ONR 256:1. Seems to work better if I slightly under use the concentrate. I currently have Optimum Car Wax on all of them.
It took a long time for me to give rinseless a fair shot. I didn`t want to like it, but ended becoming an integral part of my process.
William_Wallace
New member
I get marring in the winter when it’s on there heavy I trying to not wash a lot in winter. A touch less here or there wash bay but I get some lite swirling when I use the waterless washes. My choice for rinseless is feynlab which is slick, does not get beaded up by a coating and has by a long shot good cleaning power not sure if it’s encapsulating or just break the gunks attachment to the paint I have seen the least amount of swirls using this. 2nd choice is mckees has next best cleaning power but beads up on coated cars when sprayed which I think leads to more swirling 3rd is ONR because I have over 1 gallon and have to use it up.
I got huge streaking problems from ech2O because I mix strong so that was user error.
I like pre rinsing with hose then waterless it’s like a lazy version of car washing who doesn’t like a quickie.
I got huge streaking problems from ech2O because I mix strong so that was user error.
I like pre rinsing with hose then waterless it’s like a lazy version of car washing who doesn’t like a quickie.
William_Wallace
New member
This was a good little thread enjoyed reading some of the comments folks!
Coatings=crack
Active member
I think most know I’m a fan of Ammo Frothe and feel it’s the safest way to wash w/o bucket and hose.
That being said Larry shows himself in the Frothe video cleaning some pretty dirty winter cars.
He does this to show how to winter wash.
If you watch some of his other video’s he absolutely state’s that this is when you can’t bucket wash. He says their is no better wash than using soap and a hose due to the amount of lubricant used and Frothe should not be used as a substitute but when you can’t access a hose.
Mike Phillips has said he doesn’t use rinseless and I’ve only seen him use them and waterless in reviews.
Except when he’s doing a prep wash he’ll do a waterless with Sonax glass cleaner.
If they were better then I believe these two pro’s would use rinseless/waterless instead and they don’t.
I use due to ease and i do them more often so car is not as dirty.
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That being said Larry shows himself in the Frothe video cleaning some pretty dirty winter cars.
He does this to show how to winter wash.
If you watch some of his other video’s he absolutely state’s that this is when you can’t bucket wash. He says their is no better wash than using soap and a hose due to the amount of lubricant used and Frothe should not be used as a substitute but when you can’t access a hose.
Mike Phillips has said he doesn’t use rinseless and I’ve only seen him use them and waterless in reviews.
Except when he’s doing a prep wash he’ll do a waterless with Sonax glass cleaner.
If they were better then I believe these two pro’s would use rinseless/waterless instead and they don’t.
I use due to ease and i do them more often so car is not as dirty.
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wannafbody
wannafbody
He also does that because he`s going to do a polishing session afterward. He isn`t doing maintenance washes very often.
Dan
Well-known member
That’s sand. Not touching that with anything until it’s rinsed off with lots of water. There isn’t a polymer in the world that is going to wrap up those nuggets.
wannafbody
wannafbody
I live on a road where they put gravel down in the winter. Each car going down the road grinds it up into fine abrasive dust that lands on the cars. I trust a hose wash over a rinseless until they clean the road.
Accumulator
Well-known member
I missed this previously....
Yeah, *kinda* do it as-directed: I mix my IUDJ at the specified QD-strength. BUT...I use it that way for everything, so maybe I`m "overdoing" the mix same as you...but better safe than sorry, huh?
General Lee
New member
I`m not "fluent" in rinseless washing. I gave it a whirl when optimum first came out with ONR. I like the product and keep it on hand for cleaning door jams, bird poo, clay lube, but I find doing a whole wash with it is more effort for me than an old fashion bucket/soap wash. I guess I haven`t perfected the procedure enough to stick with it. Plus my driveway is a long gravel road, so I was never comfortable with a rinseless wash on heavily dusted paint.