Dag Nabbit, coating high spots

C

Cadfael

Member
It’s been a week since I applied CQUARTZ Lite to the driver side of my wife’s SUV. When I put it on, I went over it with a light. I took care of the one high spot I saw. I’ve looked it over inside again and when it’s been in direct sun. Didn’t see a darned thing. Today, when it was out in the sun, I noticed three rainbow sections. They’re not huge but large enough I would have seen them ove the last seven days sometime. Is it normal for them to show up sometime later?

My plan is to go over them with a light ccs hand pad and Mezerna SF4000 gently to lower the appearance of them? If that doesn’t work then I’ll probably leave them. If I have to polish the whole panels again that might be it for me and coatings. I just don’t have the energy.

I will make sure, if I do this again, that I’ll make sure I can pull in my shop where the lights are much brighter. I made the most of every work light, hand light, and overhead light I could but there we’re definitely shadows.
 
And they are even in the section of the car I took the picture of...
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Someone on the other forum said I had to compound the whole panels. Don’t have the energy to do that so I’m trashing the rest of the product. Don’t have the energy for this crap.
 
Cadfael said:
Someone on the other forum said I had to compound the whole panels. Don’t have the energy to do that so I’m trashing the rest of the product. Don’t have the energy for this crap.
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Before tossing, apply more product to the high spot. Wipe clean before drying.
 
If that doesn`t work (it should) buff just that one area then apply more coating to the entire panel. Don`t give up. You`ll figure this out
 
Cadfael --
Sorry this had to happen to you..

This is why I have 18 - 4-foot, 2 tube shop lights in the ceiling, and really big, great, Scangrip lights on adjustable stands for the sides..

I would never consider compounding using a compound to remove a coating, without first trying the least aggressive polish I have, on a test spot where you have this problem, and see if it takes it out..

Do you know how long you have to wait for this Coating to dry AND cure before you can work on it ?? Perhaps someone here on Autopia Forums has lots of experience with this and will post up..

Perhaps see if there is a CQuartz Forum and go read around there and ask your questions of those people ?

The best thing that could ever happen to anyone who wants to try Coatings is to have had a few years experience applying Zaino Z2 and Z5 with ZFX in long, thin, even coats, way before the first real Coatings were invented...

For me, this is the secret to getting it right.. Have to have absolute control to keep that applicator in that same line, at the same downward pressure, all the way to the end of the coating application stroke on that spot..

This, and having an applicator that is not capable of absorbing your product easily, so more of it stays on the bottom, and in a shape that is easier to hold and control, applies the product on the panel clearly..

The pic you posted, your clarity and gloss looks great, from what I can tell on my laptop screen ! I cannot see where you say there is an issue.. Side lighting could be a lot better if this is all you had to coat that vehicle..

Good luck with this.. It is not a show stopper, just have to figure out how to address it when you are ready... Lights, lots of strategically placed, really makes it easier... LED`s are not heat producers like all the old Halogens I have before LED`s were released to the world... But even they should help you spot stuff if you get the angle of VIEW just so for that spot/area..
Dan F
 
I echo what Dan says. Just use polish. You shouldn`t need to compound. You may even be able to get by just polishing the high spot
 
That side should be fully cured. I’ll try tomorrow with a ccs hand polishing pad and SF4000. Think I’ll make a larger effort to get it in the shop. It has brighter, more numerous led lights. Tried a halogen work light for side lighting today but it didn’t seem to help much.
 
Cadfael said:
That side should be fully cured. I’ll try tomorrow with a ccs hand polishing pad and SF4000. Think I’ll make a larger effort to get it in the shop. It has brighter, more numerous led lights. Tried a halogen work light for side lighting today but it didn’t seem to help much.
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For me, direct lighting makes it where I can`t see. I like applying coatings outdoors if at all possible
 
bad penny said:
For me, direct lighting makes it where I can`t see. I like applying coatings outdoors if at all possible
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I might try that. Unfortunately it’s in the 90’s for highs right now. I did put the door up when I did the back panel to make sure I had light. May back it out early when I do the back and the last passenger side panel.
 
Cadfael said:
That side should be fully cured. I’ll try tomorrow with a ccs hand polishing pad and SF4000. Think I’ll make a larger effort to get it in the shop. It has brighter, more numerous led lights. Tried a halogen work light for side lighting today but it didn’t seem to help much.
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Great Plan ! Menzerna SF4000 - the old PO106FA Super Finish !!! :) Love that stuff ! That has to be the mildest they make.. Probably a cut of 1 and gloss of 10, easy... I have their 3800 and that is a cut of 2 and gloss of 10, so for sure, 4000 is even less abrasive... Lovely products...They work so great on all German paintwork for me.. You are SET !! :)

Yes, I have found that the more 5000k "Daylight" tubes I put up in the ceiling, the better it got, so I just did all 36 tubes that way..

I think, but cannot be sure, that if you go too overboard with LED lights, it might be so bright, you cannot see that well, because of all the Reflected Light coming back into your eyes, sometimes..

Perhaps that is why a lot of people have gone to painting all their interior walls a darker color to help minimize the reflected light that is perhaps distracting I think ??
I know for sure, that if you do not have finished, or at least drywall up over all the framing, a lot of light just gets "absorbed" in a fashion in those places, and it is really not as bright as it could be..

And if really serious, or for sure in every great paint booth ever, you have to have lots and lots of side lighting...

And even with all the lights I have, I still prefer to always do the entire Interior Detail outside in all the sunlight, (early to 1300hrs, etc., is better), I can get so I can really see everything really well, so I leave No Dirt inside the entire Interior,underhood, and trunk.. :)

You got this !!
Dan F
 
A high spot is not the end of the world. They are to be expected especially when first applying. They are easy to fix. A medium cut polish is more than enough and simply recoat the area. The reason it is recommended to do the whole panel is that spot correction has the potential to appear darker in that area.


Again an easy fix that is blown out of proportion.


Lighting is key, preferably diffused lighting. Multiple towels are also important.
 
Had good luck with the CCS orange hand pad and Mezerna SF4000. The door I did I couple of days ago with the halogen work light pointed at it from the side was the worst by far. I was exhausted by the time I got to it. I had done the hand buffing in spots, polished the rear fender with the G9, and applied a layer of the Lite to that panel. I ended up going over that door with G9 on 1 with an orange LC flat pad and SF4000. I’m torn whether I want to try to put more lite on those areas or just leave it and see when it fails relative to the other panels. The best panel for high spots was the hood. It was under the fluorescent fixture when I did it. The high spots were all at the edges of panels, especially at the bottom where it turns under the trim.

here’s the before pic, I’ll get the after in a bit...
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Here’s the after, but sun is brighter.
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better but still see a spot or two I might take care of later. The rear passenger door is pretty bad. I went ahead and applied bit where I machined earlier and it look good. But there’s a definite line between. Going to leave it for now until I can’t stand it any more.

think I got the back panel pretty good with the second coat. There was a bit more shadow a the sun had gone just over the car. Still could see the high spots well enough. Is there a trick when you level to the edge? A technique to make it better?

here’s the back panel after second coat...
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Cadfael --
Looks great !
I never push a coating, anything, TO an edge, I start AT the edge and work Away from it..

That way I can see what happened at that edge After I put the applicator down and pressing lightly, moved my applicator away from the edge..

You have to absolutely have great overhead and perhaps even big, high, scangrips or something aimed at your work from the side, if you really want to see exactly what is happening..

I know, some say too much lighting = I can`t see.. Fine... I like lot of lighting so I Can see..

Practice with the applicator, going across a surface keeping it exactly at the same height and pressure all the way to the end of your arm travel..

I guess all that auto painting, house painting, in my lifetime helped me get that part perfect...

You can still do it, but you need near perfect to perfect lighting and control of amount of product and downward pressure, to help you not leave extra product at someplace and/or the ends of each pass..

If you can -see- you are leaving too much product on that application line, you can adjust, go back to that high spot and get some of it off, as you continue to the end of that travel line on the panel..

Also have to mind how much product is on your applicator..Too much absorbed by the applicator makes more chance to leave too much on the panel..
That`s why I choose to use an applicator that absorbs very little product over the entire vehicle application..
Dan F
 
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