Degreaser of Choice - ?

M

mobiledynamics

New member
I`m all out of my 1Z W99, and really don`t use much of this is my routine.
I can mailorder this or just run out and buy a bottle of GUNK for this one time I need to use this.

Eh, well you know it`s Autopia, so we need to hoard. Haven`t looked at all the new flavors of the month so just checking in, to see if anything has come out in the Auopian Nirvana that makes it the -degreaser- of choice for all hobbyist.
 
Thanks Tom. Havent`s been to a big box Pep Boys/Autozone in like forever ! Always just thought of Gunk in a Can

I got a few liters of TAW somewhere..It`s very old. Very mild too...might do some, but it`s not a easy spray/dwell/rinse with TAW.
 
I keep zep degreaser on hand at all times. It does a great job on my garage floor, I`ve used it on the underside of cars and wheels and tires before and it works decent. You can get it anywhere. My go to though is either 3d orange or american detailer garage.
 
The "problem" with many over-the-counter de-greasers is that they are NOT safe for use on aluminum. How would one know? READ THE DIRECTIONS ON THE LABEL! (OR as Accumulator abbreviates "RTFL" meaning "Read The F`ing Label".) If it says, "Do not let it dwell on aluminum" or "Rinse thoroughly from aluminum parts", be wary of using it. OTC Simple Green falls into that category, as does Super Clean (the Purple Stuff).
Zep`s Citrus De-Greaser probably would make a good OTC de-greaser.
Even LA Totally Awesome (Yes, the All-Purpose Cleaner at the Dollar Stores) might make a worthwhile OTC de-greaser.

Personally, I still like Optimum Polymer Technologies` Power Clean as my go-to degreaser. But I know you are looking for an OTC de-greaser. The Gunk De-greaser in a can is more of a parts cleaner from what people think of it as than a "de-greaser" .

Other option is to go to an auto parts store and ask them what they recommend. Just remember to read the label before you make that purchase.

If you have a Cenex Farm Co-operative near you, ask for Schaeffer Mfg. Citrol 266 HD De-greaser. It is what construction and excavating companies use on their heavy machinery. Should work for you as well.

As a side note, if anyone uses Meg`s Detailer Line D108 Super Degreaser Concentrate, let us Autopians know what your thoughts and opinions are from experience with this degreaser. It is a "less-expensive" alternative to OPT Power Clean.
 
The Meg`s degreaser is all I used for close to ten years. It`s good. I`ve never used opc, but I can say it is on par with the 3d and american detailers garage. I honestly only made the switch to 3d because I felt safe replacing both my degreaser and apc (interior cleaner) with it. The adg stuff I picked up not too long ago. It works, but I haven`t been using it long enough to really know
 
Not opposed to non OTC. Just mentioned it was a easy buy for OTC.....and yes, I do believe some of those OTC should be aluminum safe. I actually was thinking their would be a Mothers or the like there as well.....dunno

Leaning in just buying more W99 Like you guys that like OPC, Meg, etc 1W is what has been the -top tier- on my shelf
But you know once I`m actually in the ACC store, it`s not like I`m going to leave away with just a bottle of W99 :unsure:
 
I think super clean is really a fantastic product can’t say enough good thing about it but once 3D released nano drum I have been using them the super degreaser and the orange. The one thing that I do really like about the 3D is if it gets on you or your breathing in smell or mist it’s not irritating and seems like the most harmless on the body. I did not notice this at first but after switching and really using the product over and over I came to the thought. The 3D rinses well. Only problem is you may not need that much quantity.
 
Lonnie said:
The "problem" with many over-the-counter de-greasers is that they are NOT safe for use on aluminum. How would one know? READ THE DIRECTIONS ON THE LABEL! (OR as Accumulator abbreviates "RTFL" meaning "Read The F`ing Label".) If it says, "Do not let it dwell on aluminum" or "Rinse thoroughly from aluminum parts", be wary of using it. OTC Simple Green falls into that category, as does Super Clean (the Purple Stuff).
Zep`s Citrus De-Greaser probably would make a good OTC de-greaser.
Even LA Totally Awesome (Yes, the All-Purpose Cleaner at the Dollar Stores) might make a worthwhile OTC de-greaser.

Personally, I still like Optimum Polymer Technologies` Power Clean as my go-to degreaser. But I know you are looking for an OTC de-greaser. The Gunk De-greaser in a can is more of a parts cleaner from what people think of it as than a "de-greaser" .

Other option is to go to an auto parts store and ask them what they recommend. Just remember to read the label before you make that purchase.

If you have a Cenex Farm Co-operative near you, ask for Schaeffer Mfg. Citrol 266 HD De-greaser. It is what construction and excavating companies use on their heavy machinery. Should work for you as well.

As a side note, if anyone uses Meg`s Detailer Line D108 Super Degreaser Concentrate, let us Autopians know what your thoughts and opinions are from experience with this degreaser. It is a "less-expensive" alternative to OPT Power Clean.
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I have used Meguiar`s D108 Super Degreaser for perhaps 15 years or more, and it is always the best for my needs..
I usually just spray it, let it set a bit and pressure wash it all off.. If the grease is really thick or something, I might spray it, use a plastic semi stiff bristle brush with a long handle, on it, to help the product get going faster..

Have cleaned a few hundred engines, all the German marques, engine compartments, underhoods, that space between the front grill and the radiator, underneath; even entire really dirty vehicles full of little trees growing out of all the spaces of a vehicle, with this product before I washed it
.
Never had an issue, always rinses quickly, is very low foaming, which is really nice, and never leaves residue..

It is not oily like some degreasers, very easy to work with..

A great product to use after you open up the gas filler door and are horrified by all the crapola behind it, and in the compartment...:) This is always a place where that plastic bristle brush works great with this product, then let it set, then pressure wash it all clean..

I will spray the places that need it as I go around the vehicle, and by the time I get back to where I started, pressure washer rinse and go back all the way around it ..

Would never consider using it on coated vehicles, or any vehicle that I am not going to be paint correcting and applying an LSP, etc.. It just might be too strong for those things, and I don`t want to find out if it is.. :)
Dan F
 
When TAW isn`t potent enough, I reach for Optimum`s PowerClean. Not that I use degreasers very much..maybe not even annually, don`t recall using one yet this year.
 
Excuse my newbness but are degreasers and Multi purpose cleaners the same thing?

If not what’s the difference?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
TAW = the product from P21S known as Total Auto Wash. It`s a citrus-based cleaner, probably one of the stronger ones. Been around for years, I still use it, great stuff.
 
Coatings=crack said:
Excuse my newbness but are degreasers and Multi purpose cleaners the same thing?

If not what’s the difference?
Click to expand...

Hey, you are not the only Autopian who is confused by what is considered an All-Purpose Cleaner and what is a de-greaser. it seems that these two product descriptions end up in a "grey area" where each of these products cross over into the realm of the other. It is akin to defining what is a Cleaner Wax and what is an All-In-One Wax and how the two end up in each other`s category, when in fact, they are two "unique" and different products, much like these APC and de-greasing cleaners.

To me, APC are mild cleaners that can be used a variety of car surfaces for more "general" cleaning. To consider them as "mild cleaners" would be somewhat correct because of the variety of surface materials they clean without causing damage to them.
De-greasers on the other hand, to me, are much stronger cleaners that do exactly as stated; they dissolve grease or petroleum-base products. They have a "different" chemical make-up than APCs for that purpose and are for use on metal or hard plastic surfaces, like what you find in an engine compartment.
What blurrs the line, as an example, is Optimum`s Power Clean (OPC). It is defined by Optimum Power Technologies as an All-Purpose Cleaner, BUT it can and is used as a very effective and safe de-greaser. That said, I would not use on carpets or fabric materials. I have, and the smell lingers FOREVER in the fabric or carpet. Which WHY they make Optimum Carpet and Fabric Cleaner and Protectant for those materials. I tend to think of OPC as a de-greaser, but that is MY category definition.
Now can some APCs clean grease? Yes, but not efficiently. Would you use Dawn Dish Soap with its "grease cutting ability" to clean your engine compartment? Vegetable and animal food grease is a lot different than petroleum-base oil and grease, although is does work and it is mild enough for "de-greasing" animals who are covered in crude oil from oil spills.

So when is a cleaner an APC and when is it a de-greaser? Some would say it is all semantics and how you use it.

As aside note, I generally do not like to plug or endorse products, but I will for Kano Laboratories Inc, de-greasing product called "Floway". It is a liquid that is like Gunk Engine Cleaner on steroids without the drawbacks of the residue/film Gunk can leave behind. if you are car restorer or mechanic who deals with vehicles that need a good and safe degreaser, you should have this product in your car-care arsenal. It is available in aerosol spray cans or gallon cans that can be used in sprayers. Yes, it is expensive when compared to Gunk, but for me it just plain works effectively without the fore-mentioned Gunk film/residue.
 
Ha Lonnie. Interesting you use Kano in the automotive world......of detailing. Kroil is my staple....
There`s is another product I tried to replace fluid film made by Kano. I can`t recall what the product # was but I hated it so much - used acetone to remove it.
 
mobiledynamics said:
Ha Lonnie. Interesting you use Kano in the automotive world......of detailing. Kroil is my staple....
There`s is another product I tried to replace fluid film made by Kano. I can`t recall what the product # was but I hated it so much - used acetone to remove it.
Click to expand...
You aren`t thinking of "Weatherpruf" that is a spray-on wax-like clear coating used to prevent rust??
They also make a rust prevention/lubrication product called "Prevox" that is less "permanent". I think this is the product a paper converting machine company (that is the actual name, PCMC) I worked at in engineering that the shipping department used to spray on parts or machine section assemblies that were shipped to humid areas or overseas in large wooden containers or metal shipping containers you see on boats to keep them from rusting. This rust prevention was then removed with mineral spirits at its final destination by the customer or PCMC machine installation/road service personnel.

Speaking of rust prevention, I get A LOT of requests for a recommendation of a rust prevention product that will stop rust on older vehicles driven here in the winter in Wisconsin on the salted roads. I`ve see individuals use an after-market "Zebart-like" self-applied rust proofing. Hate the stuff as it has a very rough texture and I use an old brush to clean over it rather than having my wash media (cotton chenille or microfiber noodle mitt) get "snagged" in it. I hear a lot of vehicle owners say they spray rusted areas with WD-40, but I think it last as long as the next snowfall and salt they drive through, and requires continuous applications,
I know Accumulator recommends a product from Eastwood Co (the restoration supply company) called "Rust Encapsulator", but have no experience with it.
My suggestion? Primer and paint, even if it looks like a 50-50 job (from 50 feet away at 50 MPH it looks fine). No, I have never used Keno Labs "Prevox" myself, but it might be worth a try. Yes, I have done the WD-40 thing on my rusted vehicles, but I hate the "fishy" smell. Hey, ANY vehicle driven in Wisconsin winter continuously over the years will succumb to the much-maligned rust, despite the best efforts to keep rust-prone areas clean.
I have also argued with vehicle owners that heated garages (above 60°F) actually accelerate the formation rust on vehicles so kept after they are driven on salted roads and parked in such a garage without cleaning them. Rust needs heat and water and an acid to form. Vehicles kept outside in below 0°F form less rust, but they are a bugger to start, and have accelerated engine wear, which can be mitigated by the use of a high-quality winter-weight (0W-20 or 0W-30) synthetic (Mobil1 is my preference) oil in the crankcase.
 
Lonnie said:
I know Accumulator recommends a product from Eastwood Co (the restoration supply company) called "Rust Encapsulator", but have no experience with it...
Click to expand...

In the "paint over rust" category, Eastwood`s Rust Encapsulator is a bit unique as it is UV-stable, and the others I`ve used are not. BUT UV-stablity aside, KBS Coatings` Rust Seal is *THE [STUFF}* IMO, although Rust Bullet is good for some jobs. All three of those will work well, all have their pros/cons.

But for "what to use over rust when not doing all that", Eastwood`s Black Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust and their Frame Coater are what I`d recommend. I`ve used those for "oh, that`ll never last more than a year or two..you wasted your time :rolleyes: " jobs and it has worked *GREAT*. Those dry/cure pretty much like paint, don`t stay tacky. KBS has a product called Cavity Coater that`s good, but it`s that beige/yucky-looking color; ditto for ValuGard`s Rust Inhibitor, although I really only like that product when used with a proper undercoating gun as I didn`t have good luck with their aerosol (sure, "user-error!" but this user doesn`t seem to err with other products ;) ).

EDIT: BTW, the "you can`t really fix that" rust in the bottom seam of the Tahoe`s rear left barndoor has stayed fixed for many Ohio winters now...the first fix didn`t last, but the second try has held up great despite salty water getting inside the door every winter.

Similar rust was fixed on the Jag back in the early `90s, and it stayed fixed too.

Never know until you try, sometimes you get lucky (and sometimes...not).
 
I`ll have to check as it`s been ages if it was WeatherPruf.....I bought it to see if it was better than -FluildFilm- for how I would use it on OPE gear. Ha, on my new snowblower, I did a mix of PPF Film and also in some other areas, I also did some UHMW lining
 
Lonnie said:
You aren`t thinking of "Weatherpruf" that is a spray-on wax-like clear coating used to prevent rust??
They also make a rust prevention/lubrication product called "Prevox" that is less "permanent". I think this is the product a paper converting machine company (that is the actual name, PCMC) I worked at in engineering that the shipping department used to spray on parts or machine section assemblies that were shipped to humid areas or overseas in large wooden containers or metal shipping containers you see on boats to keep them from rusting. This rust prevention was then removed with mineral spirits at its final destination by the customer or PCMC machine installation/road service personnel.

Speaking of rust prevention, I get A LOT of requests for a recommendation of a rust prevention product that will stop rust on older vehicles driven here in the winter in Wisconsin on the salted roads. I`ve see individuals use an after-market "Zebart-like" self-applied rust proofing. Hate the stuff as it has a very rough texture and I use an old brush to clean over it rather than having my wash media (cotton chenille or microfiber noodle mitt) get "snagged" in it. I hear a lot of vehicle owners say they spray rusted areas with WD-40, but I think it last as long as the next snowfall and salt they drive through, and requires continuous applications,
I know Accumulator recommends a product from Eastwood Co (the restoration supply company) called "Rust Encapsulator", but have no experience with it.
My suggestion? Primer and paint, even if it looks like a 50-50 job (from 50 feet away at 50 MPH it looks fine). No, I have never used Keno Labs "Prevox" myself, but it might be worth a try. Yes, I have done the WD-40 thing on my rusted vehicles, but I hate the "fishy" smell. Hey, ANY vehicle driven in Wisconsin winter continuously over the years will succumb to the much-maligned rust, despite the best efforts to keep rust-prone areas clean.
I have also argued with vehicle owners that heated garages (above 60°F) actually accelerate the formation rust on vehicles so kept after they are driven on salted roads and parked in such a garage without cleaning them. Rust needs heat and water and an acid to form. Vehicles kept outside in below 0°F form less rust, but they are a bugger to start, and have accelerated engine wear, which can be mitigated by the use of a high-quality winter-weight (0W-20 or 0W-30) synthetic (Mobil1 is my preference) oil in the crankcase.
Click to expand...



Lonnie,
When I was stationed at the top of the world in the Military, we had all these Dodge Power Wagon 4wd trucks that got us to places, and they all plugged into block heaters at night, and we never shut their engines off.. Yeah, it was that cold.. Way, Way, Way, below zero in winter.

It was so cold, that when the temp got all the way UP TO Zero, it would feel like a heatwave and we would go outside in shorts and t shirts when we were not working..

But, what about block heaters for vehicles in your State??? Wouldn`t this help them start easier? I would have to think it would...
Dan F
 
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