Huh. New Griots.... Rotary

Oneheadlite

Oneheadlite

New member
Just noticed on their "What`s new" page - they`ve got a 3" rotary coming. Available 9/11 (Per the site)

[FONT=&quot]From the site:

Designed as a truly innovative solution for spot repair, removal of isolated severe paint defects, and headlight restoration. It will be your go-to tool for creating flawless paint.[/FONT]
  • Precision-wound, 700-watt motor for endless power
  • Variable speed dual-pivot trigger throttle features a smooth power band from 0 - 2500 RPM
  • Includes 1", 2", 3" Mini Rotary Backing Plates, and 2" & 3" shaft extensions
  • Quick-Connect power cord for easy storage

They`ve also added knitted wool pads to their offerings. Those look like they`re available now. Sizes from 1" to 6.5".
 
Who’s gonna be the first to slap on a 7 inch backing plate and 8 inch twisted wool pad! I do the opposite I have my 10lb makita with a 3 inch pad and rotary extension.:blink:
 
William_Wallace said:
Who’s gonna be the first to slap on a 7 inch backing plate and 8 inch twisted wool pad! I do the opposite I have my 10lb makita with a 3 inch pad and rotary extension.:blink:
Click to expand...

Mi Amigo Guillermo Wallace !
Yes ! Have had a small extension on my Makita 9227 (for over a decade), lots of backing plates down to 1 inch, and never have to worry about "do I have enough power", etc... :):)
Have a longer extension if I really need to get it that deep, but if it`s that deep to begin with, how will it ever be seen?? :)
Dan F
 
Seems like this would be the perfect tool for correcting painted recesses under door handles that get severely scratched from finger rings worn by both genders, hood cooling louvers or air intake scoops, lower front valances, under rear wing/spoilers, or even wheel rim spokes.

I was of the understanding that Griot`s Garage BOSS correcting compounds and finishing polishes were formulated specifically for the DA long-throw orbital motion in mind and not for a rotary motion. I would think, though, that they would work just fine with smaller pad sizes with a rotary.
 
Lonnie said:
Seems like this would be the perfect tool for correcting painted recesses under door handles that get severely scratched from finger rings worn by both genders, hood cooling louvers or air intake scoops, lower front valances, under rear wing/spoilers, or even wheel rim spokes.

I was of the understanding that Griot`s Garage BOSS correcting compounds and finishing polishes were formulated specifically for the DA long-throw orbital motion in mind and not for a rotary motion. I would think, though, that they would work just fine with smaller pad sizes with a rotary.
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Marketing BS, use with rotary, DA, forced rotation, long throw, short throw, wool pads, mf pads, foam pads, no pads, yada, yada.
 
Watching/listening to their live stream right now....

The new GR3 has the looks of the new G8. Nick sort of slipped that other tools coming, when he mentioned the "R" in the tool name. Sounds like a bigger rotary tool is coming.

Price point is 199. Inventory to be in stock towards end of the month

Coming with 1,2,3" backing plates

edit: foam pads (and wool) are all being updated/upgraded
 
Lonnie said:
Seems like this would be the perfect tool for correcting painted recesses under door handles that get severely scratched from finger rings worn by both genders, hood cooling louvers or air intake scoops, lower front valances, under rear wing/spoilers, or even wheel rim spokes.

I was of the understanding that Griot`s Garage BOSS correcting compounds and finishing polishes were formulated specifically for the DA long-throw orbital motion in mind and not for a rotary motion. I would think, though, that they would work just fine with smaller pad sizes with a rotary.
Click to expand...

Lonnie,
I have never put a rotating tool under a door handle recess,(door cup) because it is not needed, in my experience..
The -EDGE- all the way around that recess has the -least- amount of paint on it, like all sharp edges..
Anything rotating works fast at removing paint...
For all those several hundred door cups I have corrected a year (308/avg/year) for several years, I just put some Meguiars 105, a little wet, on my finger that is covered with a thin, white, cotton towel, and rub that into the door cup for a little bit.. Sometimes have to do it more than once.. The majority of door cup defects I have ever seen are done by -fingernails- that touch the paint as the hand grabs onto the door handle..
It takes all the marks out every time; and M105 actually finishes very clear and glossy if you work it down to nothing..
I suppose any product, compound or polish will do this, but I prefer M105 because it is fast, it is proven to work, and has never harmed any door cup to date..
Dan F
 
I do behind door handles by hand, even in the (incredibly) rare instances where I could fit a polisher in there.

I too use M105 (or M101), though unlike Stokdgs I can *NEVER* get either to finish out OK on any autopaint. Might look OK...but only until the Inspection Conditions are right, and then I always see micro-marring (easy enough to fix for those of us nutty enough to care).

Heh heh, compared to the old-tech compounds...well, there is no comparison. Talking "minutes" instead of literally *hours*.

Not that our vehicles get such scratches any more ;)
 
Stokdgs said:
Lonnie,
I have never put a rotating tool under a door handle recess,(door cup) because it is not needed, in my experience..
The -EDGE- all the way around that recess has the -least- amount of paint on it, like all sharp edges..
Anything rotating works fast at removing paint...
For all those several hundred door cups I have corrected a year (308/avg/year) for several years, I just put some Meguiars 105, a little wet, on my finger that is covered with a thin, white, cotton towel, and rub that into the door cup for a little bit.. Sometimes have to do it more than once.. The majority of door cup defects I have ever seen are done by -fingernails- that touch the paint as the hand grabs onto the door handle..
It takes all the marks out every time; and M105 actually finishes very clear and glossy if you work it down to nothing..
I suppose any product, compound or polish will do this, but I prefer M105 because it is fast, it is proven to work, and has never harmed any door cup to date..
Dan F
Click to expand...
And here I was going to discard my early version of M105 because it dusts too much (at least for me). One more use for M105 besides a good chrome cleaner

So basically you do these door recess areas by hand with a cotton towel/cloth, maybe a softer dish towel or flour sack cloth (one in the same, really)?
Well, finger nail gouges/scratches it is, which makes sense. I do see deep ones and I assume they were from high-sitting gemstones on a ring. Apparently not all individuals open door with their non-ring hand, like lefties, which is both their dominant hand and ring-bearing hand (unless they switch them to the right hand for work or to protect the gemstone purposes)
 
Lonnie said:
And here I was going to discard my early version of M105 because it dusts too much (at least for me). One more use for M105 besides a good chrome cleaner

So basically you do these door recess areas by hand with a cotton towel/cloth, maybe a softer dish towel or flour sack cloth (one in the same, really)?
Well, finger nail gouges/scratches it is, which makes sense. I do see deep ones and I assume they were from high-sitting gemstones on a ring. Apparently not all individuals open door with their non-ring hand, like lefties, which is both their dominant hand and ring-bearing hand (unless they switch them to the right hand for work or to protect the gemstone purposes)
Click to expand...

Lonnie,
Thanks for your reply ! I hope you and yours are all safe and well !

Yes, I do them ALL by hand, well actually a finger or sometimes 2, and only with a soft white, cotton towel.. The towel is just aggressive enough to hold the wet compound, and rub that paint and get all the marks out.. The towel is like a Face Towel Size.

M105 or Any product should never be worked to dust --- why let it dry out ? Then it will sling dust everywhere, right ? :) And it wont finish working as long as it could/should.. And if it got hot and dried hard on the paint, then it`s harder to remove it, and the paint gets roughed up again.. Why make more work for you ?:)

Just spray a little C/G Pat Conditioner on the work area, a little on the towel, or when using pads for the rest of the vehicle, on the pad and product, rub it in, and go do the work.. Work it until it all goes away, or almost goes away.. The pad cleans it all up, no dust, and you have very little to wipe up..

Ok, so yes, this method will get the pad loaded up sooner, so that is why I take another clean white cotton towel, and wipe down the pad, and look at what comes off. What color is it? Is there anything else in it?
Reload product, a little moisture, and go to work again..

Notice now some products are stating things like "Wow, Longer Work Times ! ", etc.... ??? Gee, I wonder why ??? :)

Once I watched a program showing an Audi Assembly Line.. The beautiful Audi got to a place on the Line, where a Technician holding an air powered rotary, looks like a 4 inch foam pad or possibly 5 inch foam pad hits a spot that needs it, takes a few seconds, it`s moist, product goes away, one wipe with clean microfiber, and the car keeps going down the line.. I`m guessing it is something like Menzerna 3800, etc., it`s a swirl remover with very little cut and lots more of gloss..

Dan F
 
Lonnie said:
And here I was going to discard my early version of M105 because it dusts too much (at least for me). One more use for M105 besides a good chrome cleaner..
Click to expand...

For spot-corrections such stuff is great..you never use enough for the dust to be a huge issue, although I`d still be kinda careful since M105/M101 dust is *NOT* something you can safely wipe off paint (it`ll micro-mar every single time even if you can`t see it in "normal lighting").
So basically you do these door recess areas by hand with a cotton towel/cloth, maybe a softer dish towel or flour sack cloth (one in the same, really)?
Click to expand...

I still use the softest/plushest cotton towels in the rare cases where I need to be that aggressive (which are incredibly few/far between..like, "many years, over a decade now").

About the most aggressive I get for these is using a cut-up foam Cutting Pad, and even that`s rare. I usually just take a little more time and use a MF towel. One of those "let the product do the work" situations. No point in being more aggressive than necessary since you might have to do it again some day.

Well, finger nail gouges/scratches it is, which makes sense. I do see deep ones and I assume they were from high-sitting gemstones on a ring. Apparently not all individuals open door with their non-ring hand, like lefties, which is both their dominant hand and ring-bearing hand (unless they switch them to the right hand for work or to protect the gemstone purposes)
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That`s something Pros must really have to agonize over! "How many times can I fix this?!?" and so on. For personal use vehicles it shouldn`t be a problem unless...some [individual] is determined to be careless (and I don`t let such [individuals] anywhere near my vehicles).

"I don`t let..." says the guy whose older dog now mars up the Tahoe due to physical disabilities...so I do understand you can`t always control others ;)
 
Stokdgs said:
M105 or Any product should never be worked to dust --- why let it dry out ?
Click to expand...

If I were feeling, uhm...argumentative ;) ....I`d point out that a (*very*) few old-tech Finishing Polishes were good when "worked to powder". I`ve done it many times with the old 1Z Hi-Gloss; it`s how one burnishes with that particular product. But these days? Nah, you`re 100% right: ALWAYS buff of the residue while it`s still a little wet.
 
BACK to the new Griot`s Garage GR3 rotary buffer:
I would like to know why, at this point in time, Griot`s sees fit to offer a small rotary, and apparently, the pads to go with it, and as some have alluded to, a larger rotary polisher in the near future. I would venture to guess it may be appeal to professional detailers who have used rotaries in the past because they are THE tool to get the task of correction and polishing done effectively and in the least amount of time (AKA efficiently).

That and there are a lot of gel-coated fiberglass truck caps/bed covers, water boats, and recreation vehicles that are best corrected and polished by a rotary. It is a big market and selling other car-care products the may "cross-over" and be applicable for Marine/RV care can only add to their bottom line. I am not sure that is their marketing direction, though.

Now here`s the big question: if you are an Autopian hobbyist detailer, would you buy this tool?
I suppose it depends on how "serious" a hobbyist you are (the-right-tool for-the-right-job mentality) and if your personal detailing budget can afford it.
Kind of like a "serious" amateur golfer who has a lot of golf clubs their bag.
 
Lonnie said:
Now here`s the big question: if you are an Autopian hobbyist detailer, would you buy this tool?
Click to expand...

I wonder the same thing, but I guess it could be useful for somebody who...uhm..oh man, I`m stretching here just trying to come up with something!...flips/reconditions REALLY neglected vehicles all the time. Not *my* idea of a "hobbiest detailer" but different people etc. etc.
 
wannafbody said:
Not sure that many hobby detailers need a 3 inch rotary. A RO with 3.5 inch pads would probably be enough.
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Yeah...such a small area being worked...with today`s products...but let`s be brutally frank here: They`re selling it because they believe they`ll make $ off it, *not* for, uhm...other reasons. It`s a business and I hope they sell a ton of [everything they offer] so they`re successful and stay around. Hey, I still *LIKE* Richard and want him and his to do well.
 
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