How to strip Collinite 476 ?

R

Red Ford F150

New member
What will strip Collinite #476 detergent proof wax? I have my truck currently coated with this but I am thinking about stripping a panel and giving Turtle Wax spray on ceramic a try. Would an IPO wipe do it (if I could find any alcohol) or how about a polish like Chemical Guys V38 or V36? (I have both). I of course prefer to do the most gentle and easiest method possible. Thanks
 

soak for a few minutes with mineral spirits, agitate with a soft cloth until you see the wax break, then a good wash with your car wash solution.
 
Klean-Strip Prep-All from an auto body-&-paint supply store would be your best bet to finding something over-the-counter that may work to remove Collinite #476. I would wash the vehicle using the 2-bucket method after doing a K-S~P-A wipe-down before you apply Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray Coating. It might be in your best interest to use Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Polish and Wax BEFORE use using the Ceramic Spray Coating to get the maximum benefit of the coating spray. Just make sure you wait 24 hours before applying the spray to let the ceramic wax fully cure.
I say wash the car after the K-S~P-A because if the rinse water still beads like crazy, chances are the #476 may still be present. Collinite does not call it "detergent-proof" for nothing!

I do know that Optimum Polymer Technologies Power Clean (OPC) de-greaser mixed with car wash soap makes a pretty good prep wash and will remove or diminish most carnauba waxes from a vehicle`s surface. You need about 4 ounces per gallon to do so. Again when you spray water on the paint (clear coat) to rinse it, it should kind of sheet off rather than bead up, letting you know the wax has been removed or at least compromised.

Two questions about the vehicle and #476 this was applied to:
1) When was the #476 applied? If it is 9 or more months old, chances are it may be somewhat gone from the paint. If it was recently, like last month, then you have a legitimate concern about removing it before using the HS-CS.
2) How old is your red Ford 150 truck and what in what condition is the clear-coat paint? If you are doing this to a vehicle that has never been polished and only washed , it might require some prep work to get the maximum gloss out of the Ceramic Spray, hence my comment about using the HS Polish and Wax first.
 
Red Ford F150- Welcome to Autopia!

I`d take Ron Ketcham`s advice.

DO NOT expect rubbing alcohol to strip 476S, some people even use that to *revive* it!

EDIT: Polishing a healthy coat of 476S away can be problematic too...usually not, sometimes very much so. I wouldn`t bother trying, I`d just take Ketch`s advice on the mineral spirits.
 
Ketch has been in the automotive appearance business for a *long* time. He knows what he’s talking about.
 
I’m not a fan of using mineral spirits unless absolutely necessary. This isn’t the case here. Personally the best and safest way to make sure you remove the 476 is with a paintwork cleaner of a fine cut polish. You can keep it simple and synergistic by using the Hybrid Solution Polish and wax. The abrasives in it will remove the 476.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
What is the reason for not using mineral spirits, Dr. Oldz?
Click to expand...


As you well know Mineral spirits can swell the paint temporarily. This goes away after the evaporation. Which is fine....but clears are so thin anymore. When paint is swollen you are more likely to introduce marring. Thus you will need to polish out perhaps a bit deeper marring on the already thin paint.

Kind of a risk vs rewards situation. I don’t think trying another LSP is worth the risk in this situation especially on a whole panel.
 
Sounds like you don`t use any compounds, polishes,, etc then as mineral spirits percentages are in most all of them.
Same even with paste waxes,liquid waxes, polymer sealants, etc
 
I`ve read about swelling from both Mineral Spirits and IPA, but I`ve never experience it first-hand with either.

Unnecessarily thinning clear is one of my pet peeves. So I wouldn`t use anything with (functional) abrasives if I could avoid it. The best (functionally) nonabrasive Paint Cleaner I have is Pinnacle`s (older version of) Paintwork Cleansing Lotion and it`s lousy for stripping healthy LSPs.

I myself would actually reach for the HiTemp AkyraClean, but I figure most people don`t have it on the shelf.

You can`t avoid Mineral Spirits 100% without indeed avoiding most detailing products, but you *can* avoid abrasives, and IMO should whenever possible.

Absent "special" products, and/or the time to wait for any swelling to die back, some not-too-alkaline APC might be a viable option, P21s Total Auto Wash comes to mind, although that specific one is probably another, uhm..special product that many might not have on the shelf. Gotta be other, commonly available, substitutes though....
 
Swelling of paint film -- Jon Miller created a misconception a few years back regarding IPA and some other solvents.
Of course there may be slight, short term "swelling", after all automotive paint is porus-like a sponge.
To understand, take a dry kitchen sponge and put water on it. Does it not swell and as the water evaporates does the sponge not shrink back down??
People get in a panic when they read things that they don`t really understand and then they share it with peers and confusion is the result, no critical thinking of the subject matter.
































 
@Ron

Why are tar removers not just pure mineral spirts? What purpose do the other solvents serve that some companies put in their tar removers? (Speaking of the ones that are MS based)

What about pure mineral spirits possibly leeching thru the clear and base cost and lifting paint? Is that internet Mumbo jumbo also?

I also remember reading from a supposed chemist where MS is not water soluble and just soap and water won’t remove it. Is this true? If so does it just evaporate away as it appears or does it sit on the surface? Do you perhaps need something like a stronger cleaner to remove?

I am also under the assumption that paint manufacturer make base coat/clear coat systems to be resistant to solvents such as MS, gasoline and diesel fuel. My issue there is the word resistant and not the word “proof”

Trying to educate myself and perhaps other readers in a polite way here unlike your semi smart sss response on post #10 above.

TIA
 
Products such Prep-Sol, and such contain a small amount of xylene added to the mineral spirits. Xylene is regulated in some states due to high VOC release and is found to be carcegentic.
Hog wash on the MS lifting automotive paint, IE-Mequiar`s #7 is mainly MS based, ever heard of it lifting automotive paint in the decades it has been in use?
Modern single and clears are formulated to "resist" the solvents in gasoline, such as benzine, tolulene, etc. As they are high VOC content, quickly evaporate once exposed to air.
Mineral Spirits are low VOC, combustible, not flammable and may be broken down for removal by soap and water.
Using the term proof is opening the door for confusion as proof denotes forever and how does one know in every case of use that there may be factors involved that are counter to use direction etc. Time of "wet` exposure is also a viable issue that may needed to factor in.
If you consider a previous reply as smart ass, so be it, some may consider it so, but such reactions are usually the result of their preconceived opinions or lack of factual based knowledge. Example of such opinions is the lack of understanding of the various types of "paint` coatings which are made up of a resin that creates the important binder and film former, plus that paint is not really "solid" but has pores which are just part of creation of paint films.
Wording in today`s litigation happy world makes it difficult to cover many issues. Example-vehicle warranties covering corrosion, they cover "manufacturering defects", not enviromental exposure to corrosive materials applied to roads.
 
So Prep-All can really remove 476? I assume it would take multiple wipe downs and letting it sit for a bit first?

I just bought Prep-All more for the purpose of removing polishing oils for ceramic prep, and possibly removing old previous LSPs. I’m impressed if this stuff could remove 476 that is not on it’s last leg.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
People get in a panic when they read things that they don`t really understand and then they share it with peers and confusion is the result, no critical thinking of the subject matter.
Click to expand...

Heh heh, all sorts of things seem to get people in a lather..a little of that critical thinking and some rational empiricism can do wonders for limiting a lot of life`s worries.

Hey, that M07 was a great example to mention! It`s *still* the go-to product for fragile old-tech paint that`s on its last legs, and that kind of paint is *infinitely* more prone to damage than anything remotely modern.
 
Mckee’s coating prep soap did a good number on month to 2 month old TWSNS and Griots Ceramic 3-1. I would give that a shot. I know alot don’t think a soap will remove a LSP but that followed by Gyeon prep impressed me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top