Wait 12 hours for wax after Jetseal?

M

Mustang19

New member
Ok guys, I think I screwed up. I just got done doing everything up to the Jetseal because thats what I have on hand. I read on there that it should not get wet for 12 hours. Does that mean I should wait 12 hours to put the Meguiar`s ceramic spray wax on? What if I already sprayed the hood with the wax lol? It does not seem to be coming off easily and leaving streaks.
 
Do you mean it SHOULDN`T get wet for 12 hours?

If you`re getting streaks w spray wax - try spraying the product on the MF first then applying it to the surface that way. Don`t spray the panel directly.
 
On the back of the bottle it says let it cure for 12 hours and dont let it get wet... Is a spray wax considered "wet" or do they just mean washing the car and rain?
 
Mustang19- While I`m not familiar with either product...

-The "24 hour wait" is generally a suggestion as there`s nothing magical about 24 hours. But when something needs that long to set up/cure/whatever-it-does that`s generally worth waiting for.

-Sometimes/often (IME) fogging the surface with your breath will provide just enough moisture to allow you to buff things clear. Might be worth a try (NO I don`t see this as conflicting with the "don`t get it wet").

-Otherwise, as dschribs noted, often it`s a lot better overall to just redo the LSPing of a limited area rather than [messing] around too long trying to fix it. A hood isn`t the smallest panel you could be dealing with, but a redo shouldn`t be all *that* awful and hey...lesson learned about one corner you can`t cut in the future (and IMO that`s worth something! Hey, it could`ve worked out OK and that would`ve been good to know too).
 
I interpret this as not getting the area wet, period... With anything...

But not to worry, the C/G product will probably not last very long anyway..:)
Good luck with this ..
DanF
 
Hybrid Ceramic Wax needs water for it to work. If you are getting streaks you are using too much product. Like remove like so you may want to hit that panel again.
 
I just went over it with IPA and will redo the Jetseal. I didnt realize the wax needed to be applied when wet, it says for the first coat to apply then wipe off. Apparently they mean when the car is still wet after washing it. Oh well, lesson learned. Thanks guys.
 
Mustang19- So did the IPA strip it down OK? Just curious as it`s never been all that great at such jobs for me (when it worked at all).
 
Stokdgs said:
I interpret this as not getting the area wet, period... With anything...

But not to worry, the C/G product will probably not last very long anyway..:)
Good luck with this ..
DanF
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I agree with this comment. When I got into buying detailing products last year I bought a lot of CG’s stuff. I did a full detail of my daily driver and did a fair job of maintenance washes and upkeep on it. The jet seal didn’t last more than 2 months. You’d be better off buying Jescar Powerlock IMHO.

But that being said, I’d mix some APC or something in my wash bucket for my next wash, the. Go over with with something like CarPro Eraser and even your IPA you said about. Then reapply the Jetseal and let it cure for a week and then on your next maintenance wash put the ceramic wax on


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I used the IPA 17% solution and it seemed to work fine. Then I applied the Jetseal (I bought this at autozone before doing much research, only reason I have it), waited 16 hours and applied the hybrid ceramic wax. I am not impressed with the Meguiar`s, it streaked a ton and smeared more than anything. Maybe it was my error, but it seems to be pretty finicky with applying too much or not enough water or whatever the case may be.
 
Mustang19- Oh sheesh, that must be frustrating. (BTW, glad the IPA worked fine after all, seems to work better for a lot of people than it does for me.)

I myself don`t struggle much with finicky products, but I understand wanting to use something you spent good $ for.

What`s your plan now..I bet stripping things off and redoing is getting kinda old!
 
Mustang19 - I`ve heard the streaking complaint enough that I opted out of trying that product. Originally, I thought you couldn`t use it over an existing sealant, but according to Meguiars, you can. I`ve also heard that if it streaks, you simply need to apply a small amount to that area and remove with a clean microfiber, and it will take care of the streaking. I could not live with the streaks, and would go so far as to strip it all the way if thats what it took. But, I`m a little goofy that way.
 
Mustang19 said:
I just went over it with IPA and will redo the Jetseal. I didnt realize the wax needed to be applied when wet, it says for the first coat to apply then wipe off. Apparently they mean when the car is still wet after washing it. Oh well, lesson learned. Thanks guys.
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I’ve never used Megs HCW but I believe you’re correct that the first application is recommended as a simple, dry spray and wipe to set a solid foundation. But doing it with water wouldn’t hurt or be wrong. If it’s streaking it’s because it’s just finicky during normal usage I think.
 
This thread came to mind IRL the other day when I recommended that somebody *NOT* try the Meg`s HCW, so I`m grateful for the info though I sure hate it that Mustang19 is going through such [crap].
 
I think the problem here is the Jetseal. You`re trying to put the more durable product on a less durable product. It doesn`t make sense. You would be better off putting the Megs HCW dry on the bare clean paint first (apply by spraying into a microfiber and wiping) then taking it off with a damp towel, then final buff with a dry towel. Then in future, apply the HCW with a couple of sprays and rinsing off aka the wet way.

Megs HCW is a far superior product compared to Jetseal so just forget about it as it is probably that complicating the issue.
 
roscopervis said:
I think the problem here is the Jetseal. You`re trying to put the more durable product on a less durable product. It doesn`t make sense..
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Although IME that can still work perfectly well; I generally apply my LSPs (including the FK1000P from which I get incredible durability) over top of stuff that doesn`t last long on its own..I`ve basically always done that since the M07/M16 combo back in the `70s, and I can`t think of one time that it`s actually decreased the durability...I bet it must`ve happened *some time*...and I have tried combos that just weren`t compatible..but in the general sense it`s never actually worked out that way for me.

NOT flaming or arguing, and it might be one of those weird YMMV! situations, but right off-hand I can`t even remember the last time I LSPed bare paint and it just doesn`t bite me.
 
If that`s what works for you, then great. One thing I would ask though is what does the less durable product underneath offer to make doing it a worthwhile exercise? Does it add to the visual appearance? Science wise, products that cure onto the paint and create a bond, something that FK1000P does, would normally always achieve a stronger cure upon clean bare paint. The only time this may not be true is if a LSP required a primer layer, a bit like the Si02 that CarPro Essence Plus leaves behind which allows a coating to bond afterwards.

In the Jetseal case, you have a hydrophilic acrylic product which I would suspect the HCW is struggling to work with. HCW is, for all intents and purposes a sealant also, but with a different chemistry that I think struggles to work on the Jetseal.

I know Jetseal has its fans and it is glossy, but just like many of Chemical Guys` protection products, it just doesn`t have the performance to justify the cost.
 
roscopervis- Could well be that, for the reasons you mentioned, the JetSeal and HCW simply aren`t compatible (at least in that sequence).

FWIW, I did (uhm..of course..) properly/objectively compare the durability of my LSPs on bare paint vs. on top of [my penultimate products] to verify there was no discernible difference (sorry if I`m stating the obvious, dunno how familiar you are with my approaches to things..).

I usually prefer using an AIO or a leaves-stuff-behind Finishing Polish before my LSPs. I find them very user-friendly and the appearance never suffers as compared to using other Finishing Polishes/etc. It`s *VERY* rare that I require the cut of even something like M205.HD Polish or even 1Z High Gloss, so using something much milder like the old 1Z Pro MetallicPolish or WaxPolishSoft is a quick/easy..i.e., utterly foolproof way to prep for LSP. And it saves me from having to strip Polishing Oils, which I find more bothersome than many do.

Not that I do *anything* except wash/reLSP 99% of the time. I go years without touching a polisher and am utterly disappointed if I have to get one out as it indicates some kind of FAIL, generally on my part :o

IF a vehicle requires correction I might approach it differently (not like I`m locked into any single approach), but that`s so rare as to basically not be a concern.

EDIT: back when Klasse Sealant Glaze was more popular, *everybody* applied it over top of Klasse AIO, and users of AutoGlym`s Super Resin Polish and their LSP (the name of which escapes me at present..) did the same thing. It was basically unheard of for anybody to apply either on bare paint (for reasons I never understood, but anyhow..) and when I tested the KSG by itself there was *zero* diff compared to putting it on top of the short-lived KAIO. Just offering those AIO + LSP combos as examples...
 
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