Which of these "sealants" would you recommend?

I never used Power Lock up until about two years ago but I can tell you it is the most user friendly LSP I have EVER used.

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Yeah the 2 boys are definitely a real priority in the best sort of way. Amazing how much they pick up and understand that you don’t think someone that age actually would..

Good on you for recognizing that! Even very young kids can be a lot sharper than many adults think, and they`re learning all the time (for better and worse).

Funny you should say about the disposable car idea. My vehicle is definitely the disposable vehicle of the family. 2005 equinox with 175K miles on it. When I got into buying stuff for detailing my wife simply said “Why, why waste your time on that hunk of junk!” And I agree, partially....its paid for and will never be a perfect paint job...

My Tahoe was destined for a wholesale auction or even the junkyard, but now strangers come up to me and want to buy it! Same story with my `03 Audi. Surprising what good Detailing can do for a junker, and IMO it helps them last longer (less chance of rust-out) and makes it easier to tell if something`s amiss (e.g., tiny oil leaks are obvious if everything is clean, spot `em before things get serious). And anyhow, who want to drive around in a [crappy] looking car?!?

Oh and once again, good on you! for, uhm...getting your priorities in order 2+ years ago. Easier said than done...
 
Well. I ended up getting some jescar power lock. I found some on Ebay and got a 16oz bottle for $20. So I think I I`ll just use my CG`s V36 polish. I have a bottle of the V38 that I never used yet. Is a finishing polish and absolute necessary step?

Should I top the power lock with anything like a wax? I am planning on using beadmaker and then incorporating the beadmaker into my drying routine

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I hope you will try a different polish other than CGs V series. Truthfully they are the worst polishes I have ever tried. Many new detailer (including me) find CGs website before they start reading forums and finding out what the “good” products are. Try Menzerma (FG 400 and 3800) which is one of my favorites or Griots line of polishes, really most any other manufacturer and you will get better results.

To answer your question, the V38 is not going to give you much better results over V36. The V32 should be avoided as it is a “rocks in a bottle” formulation. YMMV.
 
You got me there... [Power Lock].. is on par w Souveran though...
Well, that`s still impressive. The only Sealant I`ve used that was comparable was UPP and for a "sealant" it sure doesn`t last/protect much better than Souveran IME (sure looks nice though).
 
I hope you will try a different polish other than CGs V series. Truthfully they are the worst polishes I have ever tried. Many new detailer (including me) find CGs website before they start reading forums and finding out what the “good” products are. Try Menzerma (FG 400 and 3800) which is one of my favorites or Griots line of polishes, really most any other manufacturer and you will get better results.

To answer your question, the V38 is not going to give you much better results over V36. The V32 should be avoided as it is a “rocks in a bottle” formulation. YMMV.

I won’t disagree or agree with you. But you are right, they are a marketing machine and I did find them first. That being said I did stay away from their cutting compounds the V32 and the V34. I did buy the V36 and the V38 I also bought the VSS (swirl and scratch). For my compound I went with Meg’s 105. I don’t like the 105 though so I will by something different at some point. I feel like the 105 just dries up / flashes (if that’s the word) way too quick for me.
For the polishes from CG’s I’ll say I like them and was impressed because it is the only ones I have tried and don’t I’ve any complaints, but thank you for the suggestions

And I hope I not coming across as disagreeable and a know it all because that isn’t my intent.

I will purchase some others over winter though when I plan on doing a full detail on our fusion. Are there better polishes for metallic fleck plant over flat color paint?


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I don’t like the 105 though so I will by something different at some point. I feel like the 105 just dries up / flashes (if that’s the word) way too quick for me.

That`s a pretty common criticism of M105...I seem to be one of the very few who like its short work-time.

... Are there better polishes for metallic fleck plant over flat color paint?

Clearcoat is clearcoat no matter what it`s over top of ;) Just treat every vehicle like it`s a regular/non-metallic black and you oughta be fine.
 
That`s a pretty common criticism of M105...I seem to be one of the very few who like its short work-time.

I most likely with my in-experience was also working to large of a panel as well. But yeah I doubt I will use it again the next time I use a compound

Clearcoat is clearcoat no matter what it`s over top of ;) Just treat every vehicle like it`s a regular/non-metallic black and you oughta be fine.
That makes sense. I always read on here and hear the guys I watch in you tube saying about soft paint / hard paint. Are fords known to be either or? Does this effect which brands of compounds / polishes you use?




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I won’t disagree or agree with you. But you are right, they are a marketing machine and I did find them first. That being said I did stay away from their cutting compounds the V32 and the V34. I did buy the V36 and the V38 I also bought the VSS (swirl and scratch). For my compound I went with Meg’s 105. I don’t like the 105 though so I will by something different at some point. I feel like the 105 just dries up / flashes (if that’s the word) way too quick for me.
For the polishes from CG’s I’ll say I like them and was impressed because it is the only ones I have tried and don’t I’ve any complaints, but thank you for the suggestions

And I hope I not coming across as disagreeable and a know it all because that isn’t my intent.

I will purchase some others over winter though when I plan on doing a full detail on our fusion. Are there better polishes for metallic fleck plant over flat color paint?


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Had a friend who had v38 and v36 also. I had essence and griots FCC and CC. I finished my side a lot faster due to machines (g15 and SK mini vs GG6). But all in all looking at finished product under swirl finding light comparable results. We did finish both sides with essence though and I believe it had filling capabilities.

I did tri the V twins with the g15 and I do think griots works longer and stronger. You can get similar results but griots will get you their faster.


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I most likely with my in-experience was also working to large of a panel as well...

I bet part of why I`m OK with M105 is that I always work really small areas at a time when I`m being aggressive, never even close to the "2` x 2` " that some advocate.

But yeah I doubt I will use it again the next time I use a compound

Makes sense; I`m *NOT* in favor of struggling to "master a product/process" when there`s an easier alternative.


I always read on here and hear the guys I watch in you tube saying about soft paint / hard paint. Are fords known to be either or? Does this effect which brands of compounds / polishes you use?

I`m only familiar with the paint on their Crown Vics, which I consider middle-of-the-road Medium. I`d still use M105/M101/etc. (aggressive stuff) if the marring was nasty, but I might try something milder (probably HD Cut, just because I have it, otherwise probably something from Griot`s) if it looked "a bit too bad for my Finishing Polish but not awful". But then I never "push" my Finishing Polish to do aggressive work the way some people do with stuff like M205.

So in a nutshell, I`d want something comparable to M105 (e.g., maybe Griot`s Fast Correction Cream) for the initial pass(es).
 
Spent the afternoon yesterday getting our fusion sealed with the powerlock. Washed / clay mitt & decon / didn’t do any correction by machine though. Did a wipe down and then went over it with CG’s blacklight then put down the powerlock, I decided to do it after we had our boys down for a nap so I decided to just deal it good and this spring (when it’s warmer) really go over it good to get it to a good fresh start.

Another product I have that I actually really like, and don’t have the high spot / hard to remove issues that a lot of people the same to is CG’s Hydroslick. I coated all the glass and non painted trim in that. And like I said I seem to have no issues removing it like some seem to.

Hopefully this weekend I’ll get the tires and rims done on it. Question, I don’t have a garage and I don’t have the tools necessary to pull the wheels. So the long part of this for me is going to be cleaning what I can, moving forward a little bit to clean the rest, and the same process for the rims correct?

I’ll say even by applying everything by hand the powerlock was one of the easiest things I ever removed. It was even a little sunny toward the end of the day as I was finishing it up. First time ever doing a sealant was compared to just wax.

I noticed this morning as I was leaving, we had a heavy frost and it almost appeared as if there was a layer of ice on her paint, never saw that before after a frost.


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Astouffer512- Ah, sounds like things are going well. I like that you`re not trying to do some huge project right before Winter...just having it protected sounds good to me.

"Yes, sounds good" regarding your plan for the wheels/tires.
 
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