Pan just released that vid or an identical vid. The hood of the car tested was prepped with a strip wash, clay, and IPA wipe down. Seems pretty sufficient to me.
I still can`t find a reason to move to one of these products vs OCW with each wash.
Adams Spray Coating
- Thread starter rlmccarty2000
- Start date
Pan just released that vid or an identical vid. The hood of the car tested was prepped with a strip wash, clay, and IPA wipe down. Seems pretty sufficient to me.
I still can`t find a reason to move to one of these products vs OCW with each wash.
Accumulator
Well-known member
That`s what I was thinking (I use OCW as a Drying Aid most every wash on my wife`s car), but it wouldn`t surprise me if the Spray Coatings offered more protection. Which, IMO, wouldn`t be saying much as the OCW doesn`t protect very well against etching (but is good against UV).
If these Spray Coatings could be used as a Drying Aid I might be interested, but if I`m gonna have it 100% dry before applying (all of my vehicles drip for ages even after a lot of time spent drying with the compressor) I`ll just do a conventional LSP.
Loach
New member
Adam`s look like it fared much better in Jimbo`s video compared to Pan`s, although the tight beading is easily removed which is definitely a bummer. In Jimbo`s video, all the way through the end you can see a clear sheeting difference against the control. The surface tension durability looks closer to something like Mohs which is a weak surface tension resistance coating compared to Prime/Pure and Can Coat which has a stronger resistance.
What I`m not seeing is coating damage, which in the case of Adam`s this could be good or bad. Good because it could be a mark of coating durability, bad because it could be a mark of the product not being anywhere near a true coating performance, you generally don`t see this type of damage when you run chemical dumping on waxes and sealants. If I spray LA`s degreaser on healthy Mohs, I see immediate coating damage during the rinse over large patches, which is not just flat sheeting, you can see a breakdown of the coating when it tries to sheet the water off, another fun video topic that`s on my ever growing list of videos I should have made 2+ years ago
. With Prime and Can Coat, damage can occur but they`re usually much stronger against a chemical dump. That doesn`t change the fact that Mohs has been a fantastic base coating that has worked great with toppers over the 9 months its been on my test sections. But had I not topped Mohs and ran a pure test over this time period, I would have removed it a long time ago.
My first pure durability test batch with CQUK 2.0 and EXOv3 I had them on the paint for over a year without toppers. At that point I pulled out the Iron-X and sprayed both sides down and worked in slightly with a microfiber, and when I rinsed I saw the same exact type of large scale coating damage on both sides matching what you would see against LA`s degreaser on fresh Mohs. Damage less prominent on the CQUK side, and very heavy against the EXO side which is not surprising. That doesn`t change the fact that they both easily survived the 1+ year mark exceptionally without toppers.
So I don`t know what I`m going to do with when it comes to chemical testing in the short term. People definitely want to see it, but I`m not sure how translatable the results of a short term chemical dump test are with regards to actual expected durability. This kind of test can quickly remove potential great options from the purchase list, but at the same time a short term hydrophobic video showcase can easily inflate a product`s expected durability as my video may end up doing with regards to Adam`s.
What I`m not seeing is coating damage, which in the case of Adam`s this could be good or bad. Good because it could be a mark of coating durability, bad because it could be a mark of the product not being anywhere near a true coating performance, you generally don`t see this type of damage when you run chemical dumping on waxes and sealants. If I spray LA`s degreaser on healthy Mohs, I see immediate coating damage during the rinse over large patches, which is not just flat sheeting, you can see a breakdown of the coating when it tries to sheet the water off, another fun video topic that`s on my ever growing list of videos I should have made 2+ years ago
. With Prime and Can Coat, damage can occur but they`re usually much stronger against a chemical dump. That doesn`t change the fact that Mohs has been a fantastic base coating that has worked great with toppers over the 9 months its been on my test sections. But had I not topped Mohs and ran a pure test over this time period, I would have removed it a long time ago.My first pure durability test batch with CQUK 2.0 and EXOv3 I had them on the paint for over a year without toppers. At that point I pulled out the Iron-X and sprayed both sides down and worked in slightly with a microfiber, and when I rinsed I saw the same exact type of large scale coating damage on both sides matching what you would see against LA`s degreaser on fresh Mohs. Damage less prominent on the CQUK side, and very heavy against the EXO side which is not surprising. That doesn`t change the fact that they both easily survived the 1+ year mark exceptionally without toppers.
So I don`t know what I`m going to do with when it comes to chemical testing in the short term. People definitely want to see it, but I`m not sure how translatable the results of a short term chemical dump test are with regards to actual expected durability. This kind of test can quickly remove potential great options from the purchase list, but at the same time a short term hydrophobic video showcase can easily inflate a product`s expected durability as my video may end up doing with regards to Adam`s.
Accumulator
Well-known member
I`m glad you mentioned that, I`d been wondering about it too. Resistance to chemicals that aren`t normally encountered in the day-to-day use of the vehicle might not have anything to do with how a coating/LSP holds up IRL. Heh heh, I can`t help but think of "set the hood on fire!"-type claims.
I`m still wondering about the idea that coatings oughta be washed with "special stuff" rather than just regular carwash shampoo (which I use on conventional LSPs for everything, including the wheels/wells/undercarriage), let alone that they should stand up to degreasers or ferrous contamination removers.
You just nailed my biggest issue with coatings. Washing with special soaps and then using toppers and so on so forth. I`d rather stick to traditional wash/rinseless like I do. For me I`ve found great luck with Sonax PNS applied to a prepped surface and then topping with Sonax BSD whenever I`m in the mood.
I still think that BSD is one of the most underrated products out there. It doesnt leave a slick finish, but I`d rather its hydrophobic and durability over feeling.
Rocker1911
New member
Has anyone here tried 2 coats of the Adams Ceramic Spray Coating?
What about using a "topper" like Adam`s Ceramic Boost or Reload as a drying aide every other wash or so? Or even something like meguirs hybrid ceramic wax?
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
What about using a "topper" like Adam`s Ceramic Boost or Reload as a drying aide every other wash or so? Or even something like meguirs hybrid ceramic wax?
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
The Guz
Mike
A lot of folks believe this is necessary and like everything it is all personal preference and optional. The only "special" soaps needed is one that does not have any wax or gloss enhancers. As I mentioned the topper thing is completely optional.
I for one don`t use any toppers on my coated paint. Primarily to test out the coatings durability and overall performance over a long period of time.
In reality one can use whatever they want on a coating. The coating is not going to dissolve off the paint. The properties will be masked.
PNS + BSD is a nice combo. This exact statement can be said for anyone that enjoys topping a coating.
Accumulator
Well-known member
In my very limited Coating experience (OptiCoat/GlossCoat on two sets of wheels), I did indeed do fine washing with just regular shampoos.
IIRC, Griot`s Car Wash supposedly contains Gloss Enhancers, and/but it worked fine on those wheels and didn`t have any negative effect on the OptiCoat.
Oh, and FWIW, the Sonax PNS is apparently one of the few conventional LSPs with durability to rival my beloved FK1000P.
IIRC, Griot`s Car Wash supposedly contains Gloss Enhancers, and/but it worked fine on those wheels and didn`t have any negative effect on the OptiCoat.
Oh, and FWIW, the Sonax PNS is apparently one of the few conventional LSPs with durability to rival my beloved FK1000P.
Anthony O.
New member
Hello,
Having been involved with "coatings" for a time now, which coating, in fact any product, have you heard or observed prevents water spotting/etching?
I, personally, know of no such product. Based on my limited experience if one lays down protection on their paint, be it wax, polymer sealant or coatings, if said car is out in the heat of the day and sprinklers go off, which most likely is reclaimed water, that water is going to etch into the surface it evaporates on leaving behind the minerals. Those minerals want to form into a rock again and they have chosen your cars paint, glass and trim to do so.
I wish there was some wonder product to prevent them but as far as I know it`s still the elusive silver bullet.
Anthony
Loach
New member
2 week update for Can Coat and Adam`s Spray Coating, this is raw video footage with no voice. Surface tension is greatly impacted after the Reset wash.
This is 2 weeks since applied, 800 miles driven, tons of rain dumped on it. First rinse is pre-wash, actually looks great on this rinse. Then the wash with Reset has a large impact on hydrophobic performance. I`ve seen Can Coat hold up better in the short term too but I was not expecting Reset to have such a large impact on Adam`s after this short duration, I already want to top both sides.
Also used it on top of the Blackfire Pro Coating + Bead Maker combo in the rear of the car 2 weeks ago. Perfect performance, extremely hydrophobic, easily holds up after the Reset wash. Short raw clip (sound warning, it`s a bit high on this clip):
This is 2 weeks since applied, 800 miles driven, tons of rain dumped on it. First rinse is pre-wash, actually looks great on this rinse. Then the wash with Reset has a large impact on hydrophobic performance. I`ve seen Can Coat hold up better in the short term too but I was not expecting Reset to have such a large impact on Adam`s after this short duration, I already want to top both sides.
Also used it on top of the Blackfire Pro Coating + Bead Maker combo in the rear of the car 2 weeks ago. Perfect performance, extremely hydrophobic, easily holds up after the Reset wash. Short raw clip (sound warning, it`s a bit high on this clip):
The Guz
Mike
Loach
New member
Prepped with Meguiar’s D302, followed up with Prep-All. Right, if this was a personal car outside of testing I would definitely want to top at this point. I got that feeling from Classic CQuartz and definitely Mohs early on as well, after topping all is well!
The Guz
Mike
It is funny you bring up Cquartz TiO2. It`s been raining these past two days here and side by side the hydrophobics are on par with CQUK 3.0 at 7 months in with no toppers. Mohs on the other hand has underwhelming hydrophibics and does best with a topper.
I am thinking that with D302 being somewhat heavy in polishing oils could have caused some bonding issues. Perhaps that prep-all didn`t remove all of the polishing oils or perhaps it left some residue behind. I can`t say since I have not used it.
Loach
New member
That’s great performance out of TiO2, I posted what they’re looking like now in the Bead Maker thread and TiO2 is right on the heels of CQUK after being topped which is really good. I’ll have to post the before performance of it prior to Bead Maker, it was looking a bit tired after some heavy spotting but I just like the fact that it doesn’t need anything crazy heavy as a topper to really boost and maintain performance. It makes TiO2 such a good alternative to CQUK even though it doesn’t have the same insane short term hydrophobics.
Prep-All has been a very good paint prep, it really knocks down some heavier waxes where IPA wipedowns have zero impact, so I don’t believe D302 polishing oils are the culprit. This bottle of Can Coat is years old which could be the main culprit, even though it looked great in the short term on the other test panel. And Adam’s is most likely performing as standard.
Prep-All has been a very good paint prep, it really knocks down some heavier waxes where IPA wipedowns have zero impact, so I don’t believe D302 polishing oils are the culprit. This bottle of Can Coat is years old which could be the main culprit, even though it looked great in the short term on the other test panel. And Adam’s is most likely performing as standard.
What dilution are you useing with reset?
We have discussed in the sealant testing thread on AGO on how to get a fair water behavior test after a wash. He used McKees 37 N-914 rinseless wash and it seemed to be clogging the water behavior a little. And moved on to reset instead and it got better. But if you want to try something out is to dry the panel after the reset wash and rinse. And that would be with a mf drying towel. That got him to see more clearly the difference between the different LSP water behaviors. It can be that reset is leaving some residue behind that the drying towel picks up. Sounds a little strange but it`s an easy test to do and you will see if it`s any noticeble difference when rinsing off the reset and rinse on a dried panel.