Meguiar`s Hyper Wash actual pH

[Dr Oldz]

Remember how water quality factors in with regard to rinsing...

Very true. The reason I asked Bunky that was because when optimum soap first came out it was 1oz per gallon. Now it is 1/2oz per gallon. I know he is using it for a while like myself. I didn’t realize they changed it a while back and had the same issue as Al till I realized there was a formula change.

 

[rlmccarty2000]

My favorite two soaps for coated cars are Reset and Optimum. Ultima is good too, but pricey. I bought some of the new McKees Coating Prep Soap that is supposed to clean coated vehicles but I haven’t tried it yet. Any soap that doesn’t leave any type of wax type substance behind should be good. Dodo Supernatural was the first “pure” soap I ever tried, but it was just too expensive to use on a regular basis.

 

[The Guz]

My favorite two soaps for coated cars are Reset and Optimum. Ultima is good too, but pricey. I bought some of the new McKees Coating Prep Soap that is supposed to clean coated vehicles but I haven’t tried it yet. Any soap that doesn’t leave any type of wax type substance behind should be good. Dodo Supernatural was the first “pure” soap I ever tried, but it was just too expensive to use on a regular basis.

Be careful with that McKee`s Coating Prep Wash. I texted Nick and he said it was coating safe but it did degrade the Sonax coating that I had on my car. Given that it was on the paint for 11 months.

 

[rlmccarty2000]

Be careful with that McKee`s Coating Prep Wash. I texted Nick and he said it was coating safe but it did degrade the Sonax coating that I had on my car. Given that it was on the paint for 11 months.

Thanks for the heads up. If I remember correctly Sonax coating was rated for 12 months by Sonax right? Not knocking Sonax at all, as I feel 12 months is the max I expect a coating to last. At 12 months a coating will most likely have some scratches and marring anyways. Did Nick say why their soap affected Sonax’s coating? If it is supposed to be coating safe I would expect it to be safe for all coatings. I wanted to try it on my coating near the end (judged by lack of beading) of its life to see if I could clean/rejuvenate it somewhat, but if it affects or removes the coating I will skip it until I get ready to recoat the vehicle. What’s your take on this?

 

[The Guz]

Thanks for the heads up. If I remember correctly Sonax coating was rated for 12 months by Sonax right? Not knocking Sonax at all, as I feel 12 months is the max I expect a coating to last. At 12 months a coating will most likely have some scratches and marring anyways. Did Nick say why their soap affected Sonax’s coating? If it is supposed to be coating safe I would expect it to be safe for all coatings. I wanted to try it on my coating near the end (judged by lack of beading) of its life to see if I could clean/rejuvenate it somewhat, but if it affects or removes the coating I will skip it until I get ready to recoat the vehicle. What’s your take on this?

I didn’t ask Nick other than asking him if it is coating safe. All I know is I won’t be using it on coated paint. I’ll stick with Reset for a stronger wash.

Yes Sonax is a 1 year coating and was going to make it easily and then some but the coating prep wash degraded it and impacted the hydrophobic properties of it. Also no marring or scratches in the paint whatsoever in that time. Made my life easier when it came to recapture with CQUK 3.0. It all comes down to wash technique.

 

[Desertnate]

I`ve never understood why anybody would like Gold Class, but I guess it`s both commonly available and better than stuff like Westley`s and TW`s Zip Wax.

I think you nailed it. You`re reasoning is exactly how I ended up using the stuff for years. I was sick of the really cheap stuff leaving streaks and residue while not cleaning very well. Moving up to the Gold Class was a big deal. Of course once I started shopping around some of the shampoos on AG I realized Gold Class really isn`t that special after all. Nearly everything I tried was better.

 

[Accumulator]

Desertnate- Yeah, it *is* better than the cheapies! Guess I never appreciated it because I went from bottom-shelf to (then) top-shelf, so the GC was a step backwards.

 

[jwyfk]

I`ve never understood why anybody would like Gold Class, but I guess it`s both commonly available and better than stuff like Westley`s and TW`s Zip Wax. It was OK for the wells/etc. but nothing I`d spend money for.

I used Sonax years ago, then tried Gold Class when I ran out. I honestly don`t remember a difference. They both work well and smell good. GC was way more economical and available locally, so I stuck with it.

 

[gspam]

Al I find the exact opposite. I think it’s one of the easiest soaps to rinse. What dilution are u using it?

Agree, I keep coming back to Optimum Car Wash because it rinses better for me. I do like to experiment, but I just threw out the second bottle (bought two) of Adams Ultra Foam Shampoo because my windows had a film on them no matter how quickly I rinsed it off. The Adams was highly rated by various YouTube Detailers but didn`t work for me.

 

[SWETM]

I used Sonax years ago, then tried Gold Class when I ran out. I honestly don`t remember a difference. They both work well and smell good. GC was way more economical and available locally, so I stuck with it.

The Sonax car soap is in the same level as Gold Class IMO. Even if Sonax has some of the top of the line products know. But it has not always been so. They have really came up to a high quality and effective products the last years. And have been a OFC brand for many years in the EU. But like Meguiars products they have products more to the pros and enthusiasts detailers. The range of products they offer here is most those products. But they have alot of other products too.

We think how it could be that a general car soap could be any better. And if it`s worth the extra cost some has. But if you think about it we try to get minimal wash indused swirls when washing and we try different methods to get there. Then in the same time we can cheap out on products that we are regualar touching our vehicals with. Sure the top $ products are not always better and an OFC product can be really great. But here you have a great opertunity and get great advises on the pro stuff and the hidden economical gems that works. Many of the products you don`t see a difference with after the first use. But in the longrun when you get to for an example your reapplication of your LSP. Then you can see a difference on the amount of the wash indused swirls and the amount of bonded contaminants and such. So if I could find products that help me to hold down the work I need to be putting in in the future. I`m sold on trying some them out. Says the guy whos favorite effective car soap for many years was Turtle Wax Superwash LOL. Which is a kind of prep soap that is petroleum based and applyied directly to the wash sponge. Cause it`s not water soluble. Think like the Meguiars Wash+. Whatever LSP I had put on was gone after the first wash LOL.

 

[Bunky]

Al I find the exact opposite. I think it’s one of the easiest soaps to rinse. What dilution are u using it?

I am using at 1/2 oz per gallon. In soft water (have a water softener), it really foams and foam last.

 

[Accumulator]

Soft water can indeed affect the rinsing...my wife generally dislikes our soft water because she has to rinse her hair out so much longer than with hard.

 

[Coleroad]

https://www.thoughtco.com/difficulty-rinsing-soap-with-soft-water-607879
copied from here because I knew this could say it much more thoroughly than I could explain it.


Do you have hard water? If you do, you may have a water softener to help protect your plumbing from scale buildup, prevent soap scum, and lessen the amount of soapand detergent needed for cleaning. You`ve probably heard that cleaners work better in soft water than in hard water, but does that mean you will feel cleaner if you bathe in soft water? Actually, no. Rinsing in soft water may leave you feeling a little slippery and soapy, even after a thorough rinsing. Why? The answer lies in understanding the chemistry of soft water and soap.

​

[h=3]The Hard Facts of Hard Water[/h]Hard water contains calcium and magnesium ions. Water softeners remove those ions by exchanging them for sodium or potassium ions. Two factors contribute to that slippery-when-wet feeling you get after soaping up with soft water. First, soap lathers better in soft water than in hard water, so it`s easy to use too much. The more dissolved soap there is, the more water you need to rinse it away. Second, the ions in softened water lessen its ability to stick to the soap molecules, making it more difficult to rinse the cleanser off your body.




[h=3]Chemical Reaction[/h]The reaction between a triglyceride molecule (fat) and sodium hydroxide (lye) to make soap yields a molecule of glycerol with three ionically bonded molecules of sodium stearate (the soap part of soap). This sodium salt will give up the sodium ion to water, while the stearate ion will precipitate out of solution if it comes into contact with an ion that binds it more strongly than sodium (such as the magnesium or calcium in hard water).

​

The magnesium stearate or calcium stearate is a waxy solid that you know as soap scum. It can form a ring in your tub, but it rinses off your body. The sodium or potassium in soft water makes it much more unfavorable for the sodium stearate to give up its sodium ion so that it can form an insoluble compound and get rinsed away. Instead, the stearate clings to the slightly charged surface of your skin. Essentially, soap would rather stick to you than get rinsed away in soft water.

 

[jwyfk]

The Sonax car soap is in the same level as Gold Class IMO. Even if Sonax has some of the top of the line products know. But it has not always been so. They have really came up to a high quality and effective products the last years. And have been a OFC brand for many years in the EU. But like Meguiars products they have products more to the pros and enthusiasts detailers. The range of products they offer here is most those products. But they have alot of other products too.

We think how it could be that a general car soap could be any better. And if it`s worth the extra cost some has. But if you think about it we try to get minimal wash indused swirls when washing and we try different methods to get there. Then in the same time we can cheap out on products that we are regualar touching our vehicals with. Sure the top $ products are not always better and an OFC product can be really great. But here you have a great opertunity and get great advises on the pro stuff and the hidden economical gems that works. Many of the products you don`t see a difference with after the first use. But in the longrun when you get to for an example your reapplication of your LSP. Then you can see a difference on the amount of the wash indused swirls and the amount of bonded contaminants and such. So if I could find products that help me to hold down the work I need to be putting in in the future. I`m sold on trying some them out. Says the guy whos favorite effective car soap for many years was Turtle Wax Superwash LOL. Which is a kind of prep soap that is petroleum based and applyied directly to the wash sponge. Cause it`s not water soluble. Think like the Meguiars Wash+. Whatever LSP I had put on was gone after the first wash LOL.

I can`t wait to try the Optimum, but I`ll wait until after it`s ceramic coated. I think Meguiar`s does make some great products, but the problem I have with them is that there are WAY too many choices for similar products. It`s extremely confusing. If it were my company, I`d have clear cut Walmart grade, enthusiast grade, then professional detailing grade clearly marked on the bottle. When you hear the names "Ultimate" and "Gold Class" without doing research, how are you supposed to know which is better?

 

[SWETM]

Absolutely they do some awesome products! They are a top brand if you look at the prices here in Sweden. And still people are buying them and find them to work great. I think Gold Class line is more of when you have a wax or sealant on your car. Think it`s the conditioner in that can effect the crazy water behavior on some LSP. IMO you have to look a little closer to your car soaps if you have a extreme water tension from your LSP. Since if I would take my time and money and apply a LSP with those ability from it. And then after a few washes it seems to be gone and done. I would be bummed if that happens. Something that would last up to 6 months loses it`s ability after a month. Something extreme is wrong in my way to care for it. I have not used Optimum Car Wash so have not experienced with it my self. And it`s a great car soap with great cleaning ability and lubrication to do a safe wash. But if I would be apply a coating outside the Optimum brand. I would hesitate to get it. Both the Optimum Car Wash and ONR has glossenhancer in them that they leave behind. And have heard some that got there coatings and some sealants to glogg up the water behavior and self cleaning ability from longer use of them. If you have a Optimum LSP they use theirs glossenhancer and it works in synergy with them. Is to be a big difference and become flat water on the paint. No it would not. Just degrade the crazy water behavior to a less effective one. Some are fine with it and some don`t even notice it and some directly sees something is not right. If I would apply a coating I would like it to be as effectfull as long as possible. If you see a degrade in the behavior your coating has something has happens. It should be effective over 10-12 months as the day you applyied it. Then you can be seeing a slight lower behavior. Know this is much that can have an impact on your coating. But if you had a squeeqe clean paint to apply it on and no hassle to apply it. You drive in somewhat normal lengths and good condition of roads. I would look at my maintance products and methods. And see what can be the problem it has degraded faster than it would be. It`s just a new way to maintain your car properly. You have to do it even if you have a wax or sealant applyied but with another kind of products that you already have in your arsenal. A coating is like a long lasting sealant. And if you where not to maintain the sealant properly you would not get it to last as long as possible either. You honestly do apply a sealant on a preped paint as you would do a coating except for the extra panel wipe product wipe down before application. Just some thoughts about it from me. And hmm a little more on sealant vs coating LOL

/Tony

 

[Accumulator]

I think Meguiar`s does make some great products, but the problem I have with them is that there are WAY too many choices for similar products. It`s extremely confusing...

I agree completely! Bugs me when HD/3D do it too.

If it were my company, I`d have clear cut Walmart grade, enthusiast grade, then professional detailing grade clearly marked on the bottle.

I`d probably even do away with most of those distinctions. IME the lower-grade products are a ripoff aimed at the ignorant (yeah...buy "the Yugo of car wax" because it`s cheaper). I learned about Meguiar`s stuff from older white-collar/society women who bought their Mirror Glaze products at the local Paint store; furthest you could get from average Autopians, but they said "this stuff is worth buying because it works well". Good stuff is good for Pros and beginners alike IMO and often no more expensive in the long-term.

When you hear the names "Ultimate" and "Gold Class" without doing research, how are you supposed to know which is better?

Cognitive Dissonance! I can argue that one from both sides of the fence.

I agree about the confusing product lines/names. That`s part of the ripoff IMO. Those names do make you think "something great!", huh? Now if they sold it as "Beater Car Wax- It`s affordable, looks OK, lasts a while, and is easy to use" that could make sense.

But OTOH, since I basically never buy *anything* without extensive research... eh, I`m the kind of [individual] who might spout off with "nobody should do/buy anything without first developing a proper Knowledge Base, so do the research" but I know that`s simply *terrible* Most people don`t want to know much about this stuff and eh, they really shouldn`t have to know a lot just to buy decent stuff. Simplifying the product lines, or even just their descriptions, might make it easier on those who aren`t gonna do that reasearch.

 

[Bunky]

I just equate some of low end products as just diluted versions. I figure you usually get more water and less active ingredients to meet cost points.

As for car washes. what does one see in the difference between enthusiast vs pro?

Walmart should just sell Hyper Wash at Walmart in the gallon container.

 

[Accumulator]

I just equate some of low end products as just diluted versions. I figure you usually get more water and less active ingredients to meet cost points.

NOt IME, not even close to "just more watered down versions" when talking Shampoos.

As for car washes. what does one see in the difference between enthusiast vs pro?

For *YEARS* I bought cheap shampoos figuring they were all basically the same. Then I switched to some better stuff for a few months and noticed less wash-induced marring (this was pre-my current regimen) and an overall better appearance.

The difference was not minor or subtle.

Better shampoos seem to clean better, encapsulate the stuff they`re cleaning off better, and are basically LSP-friendly to where it`s never a case of "washing the LSP off".

The only Meguiar`s shampoo I`ve been satisfied with for regular car washing is their M62, but I haven`t tried Hyper Wash.

Walmart should just sell Hyper Wash at Walmart in the gallon container.

Yeah, but then they wouldn`t make all that money off people who don`t know what they`re doing, the people who buy those silly little bottles of cheap stuff for a high overall price.

 

[jwyfk]

Absolutely they do some awesome products! They are a top brand if you look at the prices here in Sweden. And still people are buying them and find them to work great. I think Gold Class line is more of when you have a wax or sealant on your car. Think it`s the conditioner in that can effect the crazy water behavior on some LSP. IMO you have to look a little closer to your car soaps if you have a extreme water tension from your LSP. Since if I would take my time and money and apply a LSP with those ability from it. And then after a few washes it seems to be gone and done. I would be bummed if that happens. Something that would last up to 6 months loses it`s ability after a month. Something extreme is wrong in my way to care for it. I have not used Optimum Car Wash so have not experienced with it my self. And it`s a great car soap with great cleaning ability and lubrication to do a safe wash. But if I would be apply a coating outside the Optimum brand. I would hesitate to get it. Both the Optimum Car Wash and ONR has glossenhancer in them that they leave behind. And have heard some that got there coatings and some sealants to glogg up the water behavior and self cleaning ability from longer use of them. If you have a Optimum LSP they use theirs glossenhancer and it works in synergy with them. Is to be a big difference and become flat water on the paint. No it would not. Just degrade the crazy water behavior to a less effective one. Some are fine with it and some don`t even notice it and some directly sees something is not right. If I would apply a coating I would like it to be as effectfull as long as possible. If you see a degrade in the behavior your coating has something has happens. It should be effective over 10-12 months as the day you applyied it. Then you can be seeing a slight lower behavior. Know this is much that can have an impact on your coating. But if you had a squeeqe clean paint to apply it on and no hassle to apply it. You drive in somewhat normal lengths and good condition of roads. I would look at my maintance products and methods. And see what can be the problem it has degraded faster than it would be. It`s just a new way to maintain your car properly. You have to do it even if you have a wax or sealant applyied but with another kind of products that you already have in your arsenal. A coating is like a long lasting sealant. And if you where not to maintain the sealant properly you would not get it to last as long as possible either. You honestly do apply a sealant on a preped paint as you would do a coating except for the extra panel wipe product wipe down before application. Just some thoughts about it from me. And hmm a little more on sealant vs coating LOL

/Tony

Paragraphs? :wacko: Sorry, just giving you a hard time. I didn`t think Optimum Car Wash had gloss enhancers. Are you sure? I`ll look it up later. Do you have any local brands you use?

I`d probably even do away with most of those distinctions. IME the lower-grade products are a ripoff aimed at the ignorant (yeah...buy "the Yugo of car wax" because it`s cheaper). I learned about Meguiar`s stuff from older white-collar/society women who bought their Mirror Glaze products at the local Paint store; furthest you could get from average Autopians, but they said "this stuff is worth buying because it works well". Good stuff is good for Pros and beginners alike IMO and often no more expensive in the long-term.

I don`t think that`s always necessarily true. Cheap products can be just as good and some of the expensive items available might be a similar product with a fancy label. People like to buy boutique brands and expensive wines, but they`re not always getting their money`s worth. Read about Rudy Kurniawan and how he fooled wine connoisseurs by selling counterfeit bottles of wine.

Cognitive Dissonance! I can argue that one from both sides of the fence.

I had to look that one up and I`m confused how it relates.

But OTOH, since I basically never buy *anything* without extensive research... eh, I`m the kind of [individual] who might spout off with "nobody should do/buy anything without first developing a proper Knowledge Base, so do the research" but I know that`s simply *terrible* Most people don`t want to know much about this stuff and eh, they really shouldn`t have to know a lot just to buy decent stuff. Simplifying the product lines, or even just their descriptions, might make it easier on those who aren`t gonna do that reasearch.

LOL, I spend more time researching things I`m going to buy than actually enjoying them! It`s impossible to search all forums using Google anymore, so it takes an extensive amount of time to find the information, then sort it by date to see if what you`re reading from a post 10 years ago is still relevant today. Then, you see another product name mentioned and the search starts all over again. It`s a curse!

 

[The Guz]

Paragraphs? :wacko: Sorry, just giving you a hard time. I didn`t think Optimum Car Wash had gloss enhancers. Are you sure? I`ll look it up later. Do you have any local brands you use?

It is not that it has gloss enhancers but it has been mentioned that it has polymers like ONR.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...ptimum-car-wash-concentrate-2.html#post505438

Here`s a quote from Chris. He consulted with Dr. G as well.

The polymers in car wash will have a cumulative effect with continued use like no rinse. As you use it over time it will add and maintain gloss. It does not have quite the level that no rinse does...but it is in there.

And he confirmed what I stated about the dilution. The formula is concentrated enough to safely clean at 1/2 oz per gallon, but 1oz is recommended to be safe for all applications. While 1/2 oz is very safe and effective, 1oz can be used for extra dirty vehicles, hard water situations, and if more suds/lubricity are desired.