Which Jeweling Polish ?

EdLancer

EdLancer

New member
McKee`s 37 Jeweling Wax or Merzerna SF3800 ? Still on the edge before making a purchase as both these products I presume are SMAT based.
I read somewhere that a jeweling polish should be a DAT polish and not a SMAT based product which I can understand as SMAT abrasives never break down.
 
BadgerRivFan said:
Do you want an LSP in your jeweling polish?
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It doesn`t really matter to me one way or another, but the trend towards products for jeweling paint now is like McKee`s 37 Jeweling Wax which is like an AIO with ultrafine abrasives. I just want to conserve as much clearcoat as possible and remove minute swirling from winter elements like snow and ice with my annual details on my personal vehicles.
 
Gotcha. Two others to consider (one with protection and one without) that could potentially meet your needs are Polish Angel Escalate Lotion and Gyeon Primer.

https://www.autopia-carcare.com/polish-angel-esclate.html#.WyGA4BZOnYU

PA Escalate Lotion is pad dependent based on the level of cut desired. Very little product is needed. Wipe off is super easy and the finish is terrific. Top it off with any wax, sealant, or hybrid LSP of your choice.

https://www.autopia-carcare.com/gyeon-primer-120.html#.WyGCvxZOnYU

Gyeon Primer also has very mild abrasives, and is similar to Essence without any fillers. It is very very easy to work with. The gloss left behind is amazing. Although it’s a primer for ceramic coatings, you can top it with waxes, sealants, and hybrids also if you prefer. I used it to “jewel” one of my show cars and have been very pleased with the results.
 
Anyone tried Meguiar`s Mirror Bright Polishing Wax ? This product is available with the online vendor that I am about to place an order with.
 
EdLancer said:
So I take it you`re in the camp that believes that a jeweling polish should be DAT based polish ?
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I hadnt really thought this was debateable. Fine DAT polish, rotary, pad with no cut. Thats the formula for the technique, no exceptions.
 
EdLancer said:
So I take it you`re in the camp that believes that a jeweling polish should be DAT based polish ?
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Doesn`t really matter to me. An AIO such as Mirror Bright for me are for those times when time is of the essence. I don`t use AIO`s on my personal vehicles anymore. The exception is CarPro Essence or Gyeon Primer Polish which I used as a primer for a base coating from wither brand. For me it is easier to just polish and protect with something that lasts longer. Polishing once a year or every two years (now that my cars are ceramic coated) is not removing that much clear. Today`s modern abrasives are good and not like the rocks in the bottle polishes of old.

Mirror Bright actually has good correction ability . Not as good as say the new D166 AIO. Mirror Bright also won`t win any durability contests. This is what I meant by it being pretty good.

I have used SF3800 and it is a bit oily. I have not used it in a long time but I remember it taking more effort to remove. I am not a Menzerna polishes expert but I thought they were all DAT.
 
jrock645 said:
I hadnt really thought this was debateable. Fine DAT polish, rotary, pad with no cut. Thats the formula for the technique, no exceptions.
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So if I continue using Meg`s #82 a DAT polish wouldn`t that give the same results as a jeweling polish if I apply the DA on it a little longer with a light polish pad ? I always like the way #82 looked followed by a LSP like Collinite 845IW.
 
EdLancer said:
So if I continue using Meg`s #82 a DAT polish wouldn`t that give the same results as a jeweling polish if I apply the DA on it a little longer with a light polish pad ? I always like the way #82 looked followed by a LSP like Collinite 845IW.
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End result may be comparable but its not honest to god jeweling. And nobody says you have to jewel(or burnish as some prefer to say) to get great looking paint. But jeweling is a specific technique, not simply a matter of what kind of polish you use, or what the label says.
 
IMO it`s not an either/or with regard to diminishing/non abrasives, but rather a matter of how fine the (final) cut is.

I wouldn`t expect a Burnishing Polish to remove visible marring, i.e., "do correction" as I`d use something far too mild for that.

Not that I`ve done this for years or expect to any time soon ;)

And yeah, I`m gonna keep saying "Burnishing" instead of "jeweling" until all the machinists/gunsmiths/watchmakers change their definitions of those two words. Last jeweler I asked used "burnishing" for this kind of thing too.
 
Accumulator said:
IMO it`s not an either/or with regard to diminishing/non abrasives, but rather a matter of how fine the (final) cut is. I wouldn`t expect a Burnishing Polish to remove visible marring, i.e., "do correction" as I`d use something far too mild for that. Not that I`ve done this for years or expect to any time soon ;) And yeah, I`m gonna keep saying "Burnishing" instead of "jeweling" until all the machinists/gunsmiths/watchmakers change their definitions of those two words. Last jeweler I asked used "burnishing" for this kind of thing too.
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I used write up manufacturing processes for zinc die-casting plants and "burnishing" was when we used stainless steel shot media instead of stone polishing media on cast parts in a tumbler ! ...LoL I am talking about huge industrial tumblers not these little guys, but same principle ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irVUt1Bdiug
 
jrock645 said:
End result may be comparable but its not honest to god jeweling. And nobody says you have to jewel(or burnish as some prefer to say) to get great looking paint. But jeweling is a specific technique, not simply a matter of what kind of polish you use, or what the label says.
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I guess jeweling gives us Autopians more "machine time" with our beloved rotaries and DA polishers or else we would have nothing to polish, I just polished my matte finished walnut Cadelli cigar humidor I picked up at a garage sale and now it looks like $2500 Davidoff polished humidor ! ...LoL
 
Can’t beat the gloss you get from 3M Ultra Fine Polish + LC Red with Rotary.

To me, jeweling should only be performed after the paint is completely finished down. The liquid should have little to no abrasives and the pad be the finest finishing. You shouldn’t be removing marring or haze. Just building gloss.
 
Wonder if anybody is burnishing to improve the finish left by (supposed) Finishing Polishes such as M205. Last time I did it was also the last time I did one of ours with M205. No visible flaws, seemed "fine", but I knew it could be significantly better. But... I sure wouldn`t bet $ that anybody else could tell the diff.

EdLancer- Heh heh, that "having nothing to polish" was a specific goal of mine for *MANY* years, a goal I`m happy to have attained :D I do sometimes refer to my "beloved Cyclos", but if I never touched `em again that`d be swell.

And hey, that "Steel Ball Burnishing" is neat! I was indeed expecting something more along the lines of a tumbler, but that`s really cool! Oh man, a huge one like you documented would really be something. Thanks for posting that.
 
Accumulator said:
Wonder if anybody is burnishing to improve the finish left by (supposed) Finishing Polishes such as M205. Last time I did it was also the last time I did one of ours with M205. No visible flaws, seemed "fine", but I knew it could be significantly better. But... I sure wouldn`t bet $ that anybody else could tell the diff.

EdLancer- Heh heh, that "having nothing to polish" was a specific goal of mine for *MANY* years, a goal I`m happy to have attained :D I do sometimes refer to my "beloved Cyclos", but if I never touched `em again that`d be swell.

And hey, that "Steel Ball Burnishing" is neat! I was indeed expecting something more along the lines of a tumbler, but that`s really cool! Oh man, a huge one like you documented would really be something. Thanks for posting that.
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Is Meg`s M205 considered a "finishing polish" these days ? I might simply just get a bottle of Meg`s Ultimate Polish to try as they are available at large brick and mortars stores here and they go on special from time to time. I calculated that two bottles of 16oz Ultimate Polish is cheaper than a 32oz bottle of M205 that I have to order online. Since I got some many detailing products I haven`t bought any new stuff for the past 8 years. My tin of FK1000P is on its way can`t wait to try it out next week when I detail my own ride.

Yeah it was one of my projects to install a large capital equipment "inline" straight line vibrator, the parts simply start from one end and comes out the other all polished similar to a conveyor belt pizza oven, we have even thrown in complete engine blocks into it and it comes out all polished and sharp edges rounded and deburred. A tumbler is simply a cement barrel mixer with media and soap, it`s one of the cheaper ways for companies that don`t want to invest in a true round or inline vibrator, but it is normally reserved for rough or none critical parts. When we did furniture hardware we would plate the parts and then use a black oxide on the parts and once we burnish it with steel shots it would polish the exposed areas of the part and the black oxide would stay in the areas where the shots can`t reach to give it that antique look.
They call themselves Giant, its puny compared to the one I had installed it was over a 100 feet long and about 4 feet wide.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKf7KCChcBY
 
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