How to remove household enamel paint splatter?

[Desertnate]

This weekend while I was visiting my in-laws for Christmas, my father-in-law asked me to see if I could do something about some paint splatter on the side of his truck (2008-ish ruby red Tacoma). This summer I was able to buff out quite a bit of damage on the same vehicle from a run in with the garage door, so he figured I might be able to fix this issue as well.

The truck sits next to the portion of the garage used as a woodshop where furniture is built and covers a good portion of the door and rear portion of the cab. I`m only guessing it`s enamel due to the hardness of the splatter drops. I would figure even really old latex paint would be soft and somewhat easy to remove.

As an initial run against the problem I tried Tarminator and a plastic razor blade and it had no effect on the splatters at all. After doing a little reading I`ve seen comments regarding use of IPA, Turpentine, and mineral spirits. All of those options scare me a bit as I don`t want to do anything which will soften or damage the clear coat.

Any advice on a safe way to remove the paint splatter, or is he just stuck with the damage at this point? I`m probably going to detail the vehicle for him this Spring, and I`d really like to make the transformation complete by removing the splatter.

Thanks.

 

[DBAILEY]

The Goof Off Professional Strength Remover has worked well for me in the past. On old baked in yellow road paint too. Spray it on the area and then on a MF. It will start to come off after 3-4 wipes. I throw away the MF towel afterwards. It is citrus based solvent and not volatile solvents. I was amazed at how well it worked.

 

[Stokdgs]

Desertnate ------

+1 with DBAILEY ---- ^^^^^^^^^

I have used Goof Off Professional Strength remover for decades and never had a problem with Factory paintwork after..

I have used it on Factory Paint only and think I would be very careful if I had to try it on Repainted panels, which may not be as hard as Factory Paint that has been Baked at the Factory..

My process is get some of the Pointed QTips if you can find them, if not the regular Qtips..

Put a little Goof Off in a small cap that will not leak it out, and dip the Qtip in, apply that Qtip to the paint dot for a few seconds, gently rub the spot and see if it came off on the QTip, then blot with a clean, white, cotton towel..

You want something white so you can absolutely tell what color is coming off; this will tell you immediately if the paint is compromised or not..

Target Stores used to sell the best cheap white small cotton towels that are small, pretty good for cleaning, and can be thrown out and not blow out the budget..
They might still have them in the Automotive Section..

I have removed everything from paintwork using this method - even that nasty, very invasive, Artillery Fungus, that loves anything white going by and launches itself on it and adheres there forever if left alone..

My can of Goof Off is a petroleum mix of several things, "Contains Acetone and Xylene", "Extremely Flammable", and for things like house painting, etc., its works great, but it also in my experience, has done wonders, if one is careful, and uses a precise method to apply and get it off..

I think that if this house/cabinet,etc., paint was accidently sprayed or spattered on the car, this product should get it loose enough to get it off quickly..
Good luck !
Dan F

 

[Desertnate]

The Goof Off Professional Strength Remover has worked well for me in the past. On old baked in yellow road paint too. Spray it on the area and then on a MF. It will start to come off after 3-4 wipes. I throw away the MF towel afterwards. It is citrus based solvent and not volatile solvents. I was amazed at how well it worked.

Thank you very much! I hadn`t even thought of trying Goof Off. I`ll have to hunt down a can the next time I`m at the hardware store.

Desertnate ------

+1 with DBAILEY ---- ^^^^^^^^^

I have used Goof Off Professional Strength remover for decades and never had a problem with Factory paintwork after..

I have used it on Factory Paint only and think I would be very careful if I had to try it on Repainted panels, which may not be as hard as Factory Paint that has been Baked at the Factory..

My process is get some of the Pointed QTips if you can find them, if not the regular Qtips..

Put a little Goof Off in a small cap that will not leak it out, and dip the Qtip in, apply that Qtip to the paint dot for a few seconds, gently rub the spot and see if it came off on the QTip, then blot with a clean, white, cotton towel..

You want something white so you can absolutely tell what color is coming off; this will tell you immediately if the paint is compromised or not..

Target Stores used to sell the best cheap white small cotton towels that are small, pretty good for cleaning, and can be thrown out and not blow out the budget..
They might still have them in the Automotive Section..

I have removed everything from paintwork using this method - even that nasty, very invasive, Artillery Fungus, that loves anything white going by and launches itself on it and adheres there forever if left alone..

My can of Goof Off is a petroleum mix of several things, "Contains Acetone and Xylene", "Extremely Flammable", and for things like house painting, etc., its works great, but it also in my experience, has done wonders, if one is careful, and uses a precise method to apply and get it off..

I think that if this house/cabinet,etc., paint was accidently sprayed or spattered on the car, this product should get it loose enough to get it off quickly..
Good luck !
Dan F

Thanks for the detailed application notes, Dan! That was very helpful.

I have two questions.

1) I bolded the comment about color transfer. I`m trying to get the paint splatter off factory clear coat. If the red starts coming off, things have gone horribly wrong. Is there any other ways to ensure I`m not damaging the clear?

2) How do you clean up the area after a spot has been removed. Is simply dabbing it up with the towel enough, or should I go back over it with APC, QD spray, etc to make sure nothing harmful remains on the surface?

Thanks again to both of you. This has been very helpful.

 

[Stokdgs]

DesertNate ----

I noticed that DBailey is referring to a "Citrus Based Solvent" Goof Off Pro, so perhaps they changed, or make 2 different formulas ?
I have never seen or used this version, but I can say for sure, it would not hurt automotive paint if it is Citrus Based, so this would be safer..

My version of the same product has solvents as I said above, and even though I have never harmed factory paintwork with it, I still use the very precise process I noted above - the Sharp end QTips brand Qtips, a little on the end of the QTip, hold it on 1 dot of the enamel paint, let it soften it, move it a little to see if it comes off on the Qtip, and then blot and carefully wipe just that little spot dry..

To answer your question, I hardly ever need to rinse anything with something else, like water or a Quick Detailer, because I am just doing 1 dot at a time, then blot it, and the solvent dries really fast anyway..

But if you want to have something to rinse it close by, that is ok too..


Now, DBailey has said that he can spray an area, and wipe it with a microfiber, which of course is much faster, and his version of Goof Off Pro, being Citrus Based, is much safer..

So, this would be the most safe way to try to do this if you want to go that route..

Was the paint that was splattered on the truck oil based enamel or enamel ?? If so, mineral spirits should remove that enamel off pretty easy once it is absorbed by the enamel paint.. And mineral spirits in my experience has never harmed factory paintwork either...

Whatever was used to thin that enamel paint will also remove it from the truck is another way to think about this...

Whatever you decide to do, just take your time, have water, or a QD nearby if you feel you need to rinse it off, and just test 1 spot preferably the lowest spot on the panel closest to the ground, so if something goes awry, it wont be too noticeable, and determine the best way to go..

I know, most people don`t go to the lengths even I go to on things like this, but I do this for a living and I don`t ever want to have to call USAA and tell them I wrecked something and how much can they pay to fix it..

It`s going to be fine..
Dan F

 

[Accumulator]

.. I still use the very precise process I noted above - the Sharp end QTips brand Qtips, a little on the end of the QTip, hold it on 1 dot of the enamel paint, let it soften it, move it a little to see if it comes off on the Qtip...

Huh, didn`t know Qtips (best "regular" cotton swabs IMO) made a sharp version! Learn something new here every day

I was thinking SwabIts, but I bet they`re pricier.

 

[Desertnate]

DesertNate ----

I noticed that DBailey is referring to a "Citrus Based Solvent" Goof Off Pro, so perhaps they changed, or make 2 different formulas ?
I have never seen or used this version, but I can say for sure, it would not hurt automotive paint if it is Citrus Based, so this would be safer..

My version of the same product has solvents as I said above, and even though I have never harmed factory paintwork with it, I still use the very precise process I noted above - the Sharp end QTips brand Qtips, a little on the end of the QTip, hold it on 1 dot of the enamel paint, let it soften it, move it a little to see if it comes off on the Qtip, and then blot and carefully wipe just that little spot dry..

To answer your question, I hardly ever need to rinse anything with something else, like water or a Quick Detailer, because I am just doing 1 dot at a time, then blot it, and the solvent dries really fast anyway..

But if you want to have something to rinse it close by, that is ok too..


Now, DBailey has said that he can spray an area, and wipe it with a microfiber, which of course is much faster, and his version of Goof Off Pro, being Citrus Based, is much safer..

So, this would be the most safe way to try to do this if you want to go that route..

Was the paint that was splattered on the truck oil based enamel or enamel ?? If so, mineral spirits should remove that enamel off pretty easy once it is absorbed by the enamel paint.. And mineral spirits in my experience has never harmed factory paintwork either...

Whatever was used to thin that enamel paint will also remove it from the truck is another way to think about this...

Whatever you decide to do, just take your time, have water, or a QD nearby if you feel you need to rinse it off, and just test 1 spot preferably the lowest spot on the panel closest to the ground, so if something goes awry, it wont be too noticeable, and determine the best way to go..

I know, most people don`t go to the lengths even I go to on things like this, but I do this for a living and I don`t ever want to have to call USAA and tell them I wrecked something and how much can they pay to fix it..

It`s going to be fine..
Dan F

Thanks again for walking me through this. I wonder if DBaily is mixing up Goof Off with Goo Gone? Goo Gone is citrus based. I mix them up all the time in conversations and have to often look up which one is which.

The paint splatters are from some wood working project being done right next to the truck, I`ll have to ask what type of paint was used...if he remembers. It`s been on there for at least a year. I always figured the same product used to remove the paint or clean the brushes would work on the splatters, but my biggest fear was the clear coat. I didn`t want the product to dissolve/soften the splatter and everything underneath. I was really hoping it was going to be latex and I`d be able to gently peel it away. No such luck.

Thanks for the tip on trying it somewhere inconspicuous. Going low isn`t an option in this case since they are all at the beltline or higher, but hopefully there will be something near a panel gap or the door edge.