Door rubbers stick to door jam paint

Manix said:
Sitting in my room for 4 months on my headlight covers Rejex was still noticeable on there covered in dust. Outside though it gets stripped so easy. I liked rejex as it was easy to apply, just wipe on with a rag straight out of bottle & wipe off haze 10mins later. FK1000p looks a bit too much work with needing to heat it up, will see...
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Heh heh, sitting inside I`d expect something like a Quick Detailer to last that long ;)

I don`t heat up the Fk1000P or do anything fancy, just apply it nice and thin like any LSP. I`ve never *once* given its user-friendliness a moment`s thought.
I will try the Gummi Pflege on door rubbers, but i think IPA is sufficient at cleaning them, unless my ride was a Ferrari. Seems to be more the rubber that causes the sticking, front rubbers are alot better than rear doors.
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Heh heh, I`d be a lot more concerned about using the best stuff on the door seals of a daily driver than I would be about the seals on an exotic, especially if there`s an issue such as what prompted this thread :D

Does the IPA actually get the seals thoroughly clean, as in...zero black transfer? I`m leaving aside the Q of whether IPA is good for rubber on a regular basis (I don`t know but suspect it might not be due to potential drying-it-out issues). If I seem extreme about this, note that IMO the prep of any surface is at least as important as whatever you put on it afterwards.
 
@ Accumulator I do have D108 if I need something stronger for cleaning the seals. Do you have to go over the seal with something after the APC cleaning like car wash soap and hose it down or APC and wipe dry?

Can the Ultima TTG+ be used on plastic like mailboxes to prevent it from faded (sun uv)? The neighbor mailbox is turning white from the sun uv and I want to prevent that from happening to mine. I wonder if a plastic coating would work.
 
carnage said:
@ Accumulator I do have D108 if I need something stronger for cleaning the seals. Do you have to go over the seal with something after the APC cleaning like car wash soap and hose it down or APC and wipe dry?
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AFAIK all APCs should be rinsed off, or at least the ones I use do but I don`t really know from the ones you`ve mentioned.

I guess you just need to use *something* and get down to "good rubber" that isn`t leaving the staining. This is *almost* always possible IME but some cpmpromised/old rubber just always keeps transferring the black stuff and in those cases I just don`t worry about it; I clean it pretty well and then seal it and quit caring.

Note that it can sometimes take a *LONG* time to prep neglected seals. Pick a section and use whatever you`re gonna use and see how it goes. If it takes [however long] then you`ll have to decide whether you really care all that much, but at least you`ll know more about the situation than you do now. On a few of my vehicles, I spent countless hours over the course of many days getting them prepped, but they`ve stayed pretty decent since that Big Job with only minimal upkeep.

Can the Ultima TTG+ be used on plastic like mailboxes to prevent it from faded (sun uv)? The neighbor mailbox is turning white from the sun uv and I want to prevent that from happening to mine. I wonder if a plastic coating would work.
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Huh, good question...I have no idea at all how well the Ultima TTG+ *really* protects against UV exposure, but of course the ad-copy says it`s great for that. I guess I`d try it and maybe maintain it with something easier/cheaper like OCW. Yeah, those black plastic mailboxes *do* usually start looking awful after a while (never had one myself..).
 
I have a week off from work and I`ll experiment with what I have and see what works.

Didn`t Corey (ceedog) did a experiment with the Ultima TTG+ on a plastic trash can lid or something?
 
@ Accumulator Should I use a black microfiber for the first couple wipe down then finish with a lighter cloth to see if there any black residue coming off?
 
carnage said:
@ Accumulator Should I use a black microfiber for the first couple wipe down then finish with a lighter cloth to see if there any black residue coming off?
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I wouldn`t use a black MF for anything, period. Why use a color that doesn`t show contamination as readily as [some other color]? Stained is stained, and I want to *SEE* such stuff so I`m informed. I dunno how anybody sells a single black MF.

Sure, I have towels (MF and cotton) that`re obviously stained. Some stains matter to me, other stains don`t. But at least I can readily see what`s-what.
 
Accumulator said:
I wouldn`t use a black MF for anything, period. Why use a color that doesn`t show contamination as readily as [some other color]? Stained is stained, and I want to *SEE* such stuff so I`m informed. I dunno how anybody sells a single black MF. Sure, I have towels (MF and cotton) that`re obviously stained. Some stains matter to me, other stains don`t. But at least I can readily see what`s-what.
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Would you use a black microfiber cloth on wheels because of the brake dust?
 
The color of MF doesn`t matter the point he is trying to make is about seeing the lack of black transfer when cleaning rubber and or plastic pieces. You want that transfer to end and know you have a clean surface.

On any surface color of the MF doesn`t really matter it`s personal preference. Pink yellow white blue black whatever


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carnage said:
Would you use a black microfiber cloth on wheels because of the brake dust?
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NO. I do the first passes with a Boar`s Hair Brush then follow up with a sheepskin mitt.

When I do a quickie wheel/tire job with a Rinseless Wash (between regular washes) I still start with a BHB and then use a MF in a color that shows dirt, including brake dust. That way I can see where the towel is soiled and avoid letting that touch anything. If/when the towel gets/stays stained I don`t care.
 
MattPersman said:
..On any surface color of the MF doesn`t really matter it`s personal preference. Pink yellow white blue black whatever
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Though I still can`t figure out how anybody can tell if a black/dark MF gets soiled (with dark dirt). I have a dark gray one I got from the PO of my Crown Vic, and I`d never touch my paint with it as I can`t tell if its contaminated/not.

Hey, Pink and Yellow would be good! I do have a yellow WWMF Bug Towel (and some orange ones), but Pink would be kinda cool IMO.

Oh, and thanks for clarifying my earlier post; apparently, I`m not communicating too well on this thread :o
 
I`m using the Gummi pfledge on rubbers & fk1000p on paint, no stick at all. However the rubbers leave a residue of the gummi pfledge on the paint & had to use alcohol to clean it off. You can see it clearly on the dark black strips in the door jams.

Is this because I have applied too much coats of gummi pfledge or didn`t let the product air dry enough?

I applied one coat per day for 3 days just to allow the product to sink in the rubber. And kept doors open for about 20-30mins before closing after each application. I noticed a few days after the rubbers are soft & feel almost wet so maybe this is just unavoidable?
 
Manix said:
I`m using the Gummi pfledge on rubbers & fk1000p on paint, no stick at all. However the rubbers leave a residue of the gummi pfledge on the paint...
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You`re using the 1Z/NextZ version, right? I found the Wurth stuff a little better in this regard but it`s awfully pricey.

Is this because I have applied too much coats of gummi pfledge or didn`t let the product air dry enough?
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Yes.

Unless you have a really good reason to apply so much, just do one coat. Rub that in pretty well. Wipe off any significant excess (yeah, that can precipitate the need to reapply..chance you take) with an old MF (don`t use cotton, can leave obvious lint) and leave the doors open until the stuff is genuinely dry.

Per usual, there are a whole lotta reasons why YMMV, so IMO it`s just one of those things. But if you apply less and let it dry better you might solve the problem. I don`t think I`d spend for the Wurth unless you`re just into the whole Trying New/Different Stuff approach to this stuff.

Ya know, I`m a little surprised you had to resort to IPA to get the residue off..
 
Accumulator said:
You`re using the 1Z/NextZ version, right? I found the Wurth stuff a little better in this regard but it`s awfully pricey.



Yes.

Unless you have a really good reason to apply so much, just do one coat. Rub that in pretty well. Wipe off any significant excess (yeah, that can precipitate the need to reapply..chance you take) with an old MF (don`t use cotton, can leave obvious lint) and leave the doors open until the stuff is genuinely dry.

Per usual, there are a whole lotta reasons why YMMV, so IMO it`s just one of those things. But if you apply less and let it dry better you might solve the problem. I don`t think I`d spend for the Wurth unless you`re just into the whole Trying New/Different Stuff approach to this stuff.

Ya know, I`m a little surprised you had to resort to IPA to get the residue off..
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Hi Accumulator.

Yes I have the 1Z/NextZ product.


I applied a few coats so it would soak into the rubbers as they clearly haven`t had anything on them in years, that was my thinking. Getting the residue off was very hard with just water on tissue so I just reached for IPA. Perhaps watered down would have worked to.
 
Manix- I`ve done a lot of really dried-out seals that`d never been treated before. Even in those cases, I try to not over-apply the stuff, figure I can just improve things incrementally. I never close the doors/hatch/etc. until the seals feel dry to the touch, often leaving them open overnight or even for a day or so.
 
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