Sonax Paint Cleaner vs Oxidation

JordanL

New member
So recently I had a client who wanted to have his red Mk 3 GTI cleaned up because it had been sitting for about a year. The interior was a mess etc but it was cleaned up and it looked like it was fresh from the factory. But the exterior was a different story. There was oxidation on the hood, roof, back hatch and on parts of the side. Even some clear coat failure was present. So after pressure washing all the moss and crud from the cracks and crevices on the exterior, the paint was then foamed with dawn and apc. There was no wax present which was no supprise. After all was said and done I had to tackle the paint. I decided to go with some Sonax Paint Cleaner and a Uber Blue Pad on my Griots. I did 4 passes in total, 3 on speed 5 and on the last pass the speed was turned down to 4 with a slower arm speed. The results were spectacular! The gloss was restored and was looking substantially better than before. I didn't snap many pictures so this isn't going to be a write up, this is intended to show what the product can do. A quick note before getting to the pictures. I noticed that the paint residue was substantial after each panel (all the oxidation being transferred) so I highly recommend having multiple pads. Onto the photos... (Please excuse the pictures, I don't own a DSLR etc so these were taken with my 5s)




Gloss was restored





50/50. Not perfect but definitely a lot better





Looking good!





A closer look at the 50/50 (Went over the tape in one small spot so please excuse that)





After completing the rear quarter panel this was the paint residue I was talking about earlier!





After the entire car was completed I snapped this picture of the hood





All said and done. Even though Sonax Paint Cleaner contains a wax, I decided to apply Sonax's liquid wax to add more durability as the wax in the paint cleaner only lasts for 3-6 weeks.



Like I said, sorry for the bad pictures, I didn't plan on taking any but after seeing the good results I thought id share it with everyone.

Thanks

- Jordan
 
Nice work!
Sorry for the n00b question but, you said the transfer (red paint) was pretty significant. How many pads did you use? I have the same problem and I bit worried I am going to hit metal if I do much more work with the DA!
 
90% of the correction/restoration work I do is on single stage paint. It is incredibly difficult to compound and polish down to bare metal as long as there are no areas that appear thin enough that you can see metal or primer prior to starting. I wet sand and polish lots of single stage paints and other than being careless when machine sanding around some edges, I`ve never actually compounded through to metal

Nice work!
Sorry for the n00b question but, you said the transfer (red paint) was pretty significant. How many pads did you use? I have the same problem and I bit worried I am going to hit metal if I do much more work with the DA!
 
Thanks!
So that paint transfer onto the pads isn`t something you worry about to much?
Not to jack this thread but I was looking into the same product OP used for my car:
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Some of those water spots (or whatever they are) do not clean up and you can see the mirror is very faded. Was hoping Sonax paint cleaner could do the same for me
 

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