Klasse or alternative

I

imported_Progress

New member
Hi guys, I was an old member before the merge hence the strange username.

I`ve always been a KAIO and KSG guy but I`m getting to the end of my KAIO container (which I`ve had for over 10 years) and was considering making a move to something different. In all honesty, I have no complaints with the above. I tend to detail my car only twice a year and before winter I`ll do a coat of AIO followed by 3-4 coats of SG and using a little mist bottle for the SG application, its a breeze.

Should I resupply the AIO and continue as always or are there better products out there now that I should try?

Thanks!
 
Never used the stuff, but I know some people here use it and still speak highly of it. I`m sure accumulator will be in at some point to discuss KAIO vs FK1000p. Seems FK1000 is the ultimate if you just want solid protection against the elements. I haven`t used it yet, but I`ve had great results with the Collinite waxes- like most.

Ultimately, if you like KAIO, no need to switch unless there`s just something else you`d like to try.
 
If you really like Klasse Sealant Glaze and AIO, Jeffs Werkstat makes products which are sort of like updated versions of Klasse.

Granted I just looked aft their website and they are sold out of almost everything. Must be having a shipping issue from Germany.
 
To add to my previous post, while I love Werkstat Prime and Werkstat Jett, I generally use Finish Kare 1000P with either Finish Kares AIO or Zaino AIO.
 
I also have Collinite 476 that I use, usually for my summer detail since it seems to provide more depth than the SG and I don`t need as much long lasting protection during that season. Am I safe there?
 
If you want to try something new look into all the coatings. I would suggest PBL Paint Coating or McKees Paint Coating. Or if you want something even easier look into CarPro Hydro2. Hydro2 is like a magic act, just spray it on and hose it off, instant shine and dirt repellant. The stuff will amaze you. Nothing wrong with KAOI either. Brave new world.
 
If I`m reading right, You use 476 some of the time, but go back to Klasse for the durability. If that`s the case, you`ve got your Klasse method down solid.

How about a sealant topped with the 476?
 
I think the only good reason to not have KAIO around is if you believe coatings are going to completely take over (at least for you). Even then, I`d probably keep it around as a paint cleaner/wash for pre-polish cleaning.
 
WaxAddict said:
If I`m reading right, You use 476 some of the time, but go back to Klasse for the durability. If that`s the case, you`ve got your Klasse method down solid.

How about a sealant topped with the 476?
Click to expand...

One winter I tried two coats of SG and one of 476 and it didn`t seem to last as long as the 3-4 coats of SG.

To be clear, there is no issue of removing SG (after curing period) by applying 476 after?
 
notime said:
I think the only good reason to not have KAIO around is if you believe coatings are going to completely take over (at least for you). Even then, I`d probably keep it around as a paint cleaner/wash for pre-polish cleaning.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I`m heading back to my bubble. KAIO is just so easy to use and I put it on everything so I think I`ll re-up anyway!
 
notime & imported_Progress- Welcome to Autopia! Sounds like I`m late to this party, but here goes anyhow:

jrock645 said:
Never used the stuff, but I know some people here use it and still speak highly of it. I`m sure accumulator will be in at some point to discuss KAIO vs FK1000p. Seems FK1000 is the ultimate if you just want solid protection against the elements. I haven`t used it yet, but I`ve had great results with the Collinite waxes- like most.

Ultimately, if you like KAIO, no need to switch unless there`s just something else you`d like to try.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I always get on my FK1000P soapbox when it comes to durability and protection. IME it`s the only thing that compares with *heavily* layered KSG and has basically replaced the latter in my regimen. BUT....

I like KAIO as a (functionally) non-abrasive Paint Cleaner and FK1000P works fine over it. If you like KAIO then no need to buy something different IMO. Ditto for KSG, but I never got decent durability (by my tough standards) unless I used *at least* four layers and I ended up deciding that fewer than six was insufficient.

FK1000P doesn`t give the "thick layer of plasticy stuff" effect that KSG does and hence does not protect against marring/etc. in the same way. Probably not a significant issue for most people and not a factor at all unless you regularly layer KSG very heavily. With FK1000P you only need two layers, with the second done after the next regularly-scheduled wash (don`t layer it too soon- beware solvent-effect).

One/two coats of FK1000P last/protect at least as well as 6 layers of KSG IME and generally look better IMO. Lookswise, IMO FK1000P vs. 476S is color-dependent, but even paints I thought looked awful with FK1000P (as opposed to 476S) ended up growing on me and *NOTHING* I`ve ever used has ever garnered more compliments from complete strangers...they regularly come up to me in parking lots to rave about my beaters since I switched to the FK!

476S shouldn`t mess with underlying KSG but will prevent layering on more. I never combined the two but rather picked one or the other.

If using 476S/FK1000P it doesn`t matter what you use underneath with regard to durability, waste of time/product IMO. Whatever you use first (KAIO/etc.) just preps for the stuff that`s on top and the idea of "layering durable products over each other for more durability" doesn`t pan out IME. Just prep the paint the way you like to and then use the right LSP on top.

And KAIO + Collinite 845 works well on exterior trim, but then so does KAIO + KSG if you do it properly. I still use the Klasse twins on some high-gloss exterior black plastics due to that "coated with thich plastic"-effect, does help keep them marring-free IME if you use enough KSG.
 
Duragloss 501 is a pretty potent paint cleaner, with a strong sealant. You could top it with 111, which is a pure sealant.
 
@ Accumulator

"(don`t layer it too soon- beware solvent-effect)."

You saying I can get away with one coat then for family/friends.
I was doing 2 in case I missed anything. After wiping off first coat.

Lost on your solvent effect?
can you explain?
 
I believe he meant to let it "cure" so to speak. If you apply it too soon, as in right away (?, or shortly thereafter ?), the solvents in that wax *may* remove the prior layer, so you would still only have one layer, instead of two.

I could be wrong.

In my case, on my wife`s car, I waxed with FK1000p, then added a second layer one week later, following an ONR rinseless wash.
 
ShawnF350 said:
..
Lost on your solvent effect?
can you explain?
Click to expand...

Adding to what JustJesus posted:

The "Solvent Effect" is when subsequent applications dissolve/mess with the layer that`s already on there. With FK1000P the result can be what I call "pseudo-holograms", they look just like regular holograms but are only in the LSP, not the actual clearcoat.

I`ve only had it happen twice with FK1000P but one time it was a nightmare (Black Yukon XLD, maybe 4 layers, all over the whole thing...didn`t notice until the stuff had cured and it was a bear to fix.).

Since then I just wait a few days/until the next wash before doing a second/etc. coat. Ron K. (who oughta know!) said "user-error" but when something that basic isn`t Accumulator-proof, well....I post about it and I didn`t like his suggestion (use different towels/buff-off approach) anyhow. Waiting solves the problem so I wait.

If what you`re doing now (two applications for thorough coverage) is working fine, then however you`re doing it is working and I wouldn`t worry about it (just keep an eye peeled). Could be that your current approach has the two applications *so* close together that the first one hasn`t "set up" much. Eh, wouldn`t look for problems you don`t have, just didn`t want you to have a *new* problem either.
 
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