Best base coat under spray waxes

T

TJinFL

New member
Have patience with me as I am a newbie/amateur at detailing.

In the past I have primarily waxed and washed my vehicle. I was using Mother`s carnauba paste wax then about 3 years ago I upgraded to Klasse AIO followed by Collinite 476s.

But less than 2 months ago I got a new silver RAV4 and after using the KAIO and 476s on it began noticing white stains on all my porous black trim around the entire lower extremity of the vehicle. I have been able to remove it with Dawn and IPO. Apparently the 476s was the culprit which I ignorantly applied to the trim to protect it.

So I have been doing some research and have decided to start using a spray wax like D156 over the base coats.

I am beginning to see the complexity of the subject. Using multiple products to care for one`s car`s surface, change one variable and everything changes.

This morning it occurred to me that whereas most persons experience with apply spray waxes was that they go on quickly - say in 7 to 15 minutes to do the whole car. But my experience of applying D159 over a 9 week old coating of 476s was quite different. It took me most of an hour to apply the D156.

Now I had chosen 476s about 2 years ago when my plan was to wax my previous car say every 8 months and I was looking for longevity.

But now I realize 476s may not be the ideal base coating for a spray wax.

Also now I have discovered Aquawax, Optimum Car Wax, & Pinnacle Liquid Spray Wax.

I will probably dump the 476s because of the trim staining issues.

So what is an ideal base coat for spray waxes?? A wax such a Pinnacle Sovereign for example or a sealant such as WG high gloss sealant? Should one stick within a product line?
 
Optimum spray wax is in my opinion the best spray wax on the market. It isnt a topper and can be used as a solo product.

I use it as a topper though...

If It were me I would order ONR and while you dry off the onr either use opti seal or the optimum car wax to dry. Safer then soap, adding protection while you dry is a good time saver without much compromise.
 
I like Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant, does not stain trim. I know a lot of people like the Wolfgang sealant you mentioned. I`m pretty sure WOlfgang doesn`t stain either. I would look at using a spray wax to top off the sealant. Meguiar`s Xpress spray wax D156 is awesome. You can wax a whole car in about 10 mins with D156.
 
TJinFL- Guess I won`t suggest merely keeping the 476S off the trim, I know that can be easier said than done. The trick to using it on trim is to buff it off before it dries, but even then it doesn`t work out well for everybody. Collinite`s 845 is trim-friendly, I used KAIO+ 845 on trim for years.

OCW has always worked fine for me, and if you use it as a drying aid (i.e., use it frequently) it can work fine as a stand-alone LSP. But I`d still use the 476S on panels where the trim isn`t an issue (hood/roof/etc.) just for the protection.

I don`t recall issues with D165 (well...the consumer version, UQW) on 476S, but if it doesn`t work for you then that`s that.
 
I`ve been using AquaWax after every wash for years on top of FinishKare 1000p. I just bought two gallons of D156 as a replacement. Just spray it on the wet car and dry normally. It only adds a few seconds to drying the car. As for an LSP that won`t stain plastic and rubber, I could care less. I learned many years ago to keep waxes and sealants off the trim. I just can`t find any empathy for anyone too lazy to keep wax off plastic and rubber.

If you`re into detailing your car and haphazard in LSP application, what does that say about the rest of your detailing process?

Don`t make things more complex or difficult for yourself. The whole idea behind products like AquaWax and D156 is ease of use and speed. If you`re taking and hour to apply D156, there is absolutely no point to using it as you could apply a coat of LSP in the same time. Wash your car and spray a little D156 ON THE WET CAR as you dry.

WHY WOULD ANYONE USE A SPRAY WAX IF IT TAKES JUST AS LONG TO APPLY AS A LIQUID OR PASTE LSP?
 
Sonic Mustang - I will try your technique with D156. I think it may just be the answer I was looking for. As I said I was stupid in putting the 476s on the trim. I have learned that lesson well!! I believe I will probably continue using the 476s just be more careful. Maybe even do the tape thing. Thanks!

One more thing what do you do about the chamois/drying cloths which now have D156 residue when you are finished? I use a good quality synthetic chamois to dry then touch up if I feel necessary with a microfiber towel.
 
TJinFL said:
Sonic Mustang - I will try your technique with D156. I think it may just be the answer I was looking for. As I said I was stupid in putting the 476s on the trim. I have learned that lesson well!! I believe I will probably continue using the 476s just be more careful. Maybe even do the tape thing. Thanks!

One more thing what do you do about the chamois/drying cloths which now have D156 residue when you are finished? I use a good quality synthetic chamois to dry then touch up if I feel necessary with a microfiber towel.
Click to expand...

The Chamois got my attention. When I`m using a drying aid I`m using a dedicated quality fluffy micro from Autopia or the rag place.
 
SonicMustang- Welcome to Autopia!

The FK1000P (my fave LSP) seems to do fine with both the OCW and the Meguiar`s, but I find that I do just as well using a sorta-strong IUDJ mix as my drying aid on that particular LSP, so I save the OCW/UQW for other uses.

And, heh heh...nobody in his right mind would ever call me lazy or haphazard about my detailing, but I`ve had a few vehicles where it was quite challenging to keep the LSP off the trim. I actually ruled out Blitz Wax because of its trim-staining potential (but I do still use Autoglym SRP on that car, and that stuff stains too).

TJinFL- I thought I`d end up choosing between the D156/UQW and OCW, but I find that I like them both. Subtle diffs, but I do discern them and I kinda prefer the Meguiar`s on trim (on the A8, I use OCW for the regular paint and UQW on the trim and black-painted bits).

I`d use a plush MF drying medium with these kinds of Drying Aids, and I wash them thoroughly every time. Both because of the residue issue and because I vastly prefer the way those perform. My better WWMFs work OK for this, but not as well as the plush ones. While I`ve basically retired my varioius variations of chamois (real and artificial) for detailing use, I`d be pretty surprised if they worked OK with these kinds of drying aids anyhow.

EDIT: I wouldn`t call it "stupid" to put 476S on trim, some of us here have had great results with it. But it seems to depend on both the trim and the technique and when it goes sideways it`s a big PIA.
 
I used to occasionally end up with a product that would stain the trim and I dont care what it is, ill drop it in the trash as quick as a piece of fruit that has gone bad.
 
TJinFL said:
Accumulator - OK I am learning. Would you consider the Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave by Cobra to be plush?
Click to expand...

My bad, I failed to explain my terminology :o

NO, the plush towels are the "other kind".

The Waffle Weave MicroFiber ("WWMF") is a low/no-nap towel, the Plush ones have a significant nap like a cotton bath towel.

So the WW and the Plush are basically the two *different* types of MF drying towels. I`ve found that I *vastly* prefer the plush ones, but many of them leave significant lint behind and I wonder whether they might *all* do that sooner or later. But hey, that`s just me and different people will have different preferences. I still use a WWMF on the glass just to avoid the Lint Issue (still gotta be careful as some WWMFs lint too).
 
I would use Hydro2 or Wetcoat or similar if you want ease and a durable non staining product.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Accumulator said:
SonicMustang- Welcome to Autopia!
Click to expand...

Thanks. This forum seems to be populated with guys who aren`t as self-absorbed as those posting on Geek. Funny how different things can be on two forums run by the same company. I think I`ll stick around, but if anybody asks me for my opinion on Competition Ready I may get banned!
 
Sonic Mustang said:
Thanks. This forum seems to be populated with guys who aren`t as self-absorbed as those posting on Geek. Funny how different things can be on two forums run by the same company. I think I`ll stick around, but if anybody asks me for my opinion on Competition Ready I may get banned!
Click to expand...

As this thread is starting to go a bit sideways, I`ll make these comments. Having read this post I had to go check your posts on AG. I`m interested in seeing that we start off on a level playing field. I believe it`s important to establish a common understanding between you as a new member and the Autopia staff. Furthermore, I think it`s imparative that this be said, what happened with you and your membership on AutoGeek is between you and AutoGeek. While Autopia takes its marching orders from PBMG, they have never asked Autopia to follow AutoGeek`s lead. These two forums are seperate entities and have been treated as such by PBMG.

We have a great group of members on this forum, the forum as a whole can talk about most anything and show both respect and tolerence for others during these discussions. Even political threads have little need for staff intervention and that`s a trait not often found on forums today.

Autopia Forums values its members and intends to see that the discussions on this forum are both open and civil. The staff does its best to make sure our members are comfortable voicing their opinions in the discussions while keeping the threads relevant. Having now read a number of your posts on that forum it is my feeling that many were inappropriate. Many of those posts were both condesending and derogatory with a general lack of respect for the forum and its members. It almost goes without saying that to display the same demeanor and common lack of courtesy on Autopia would have a similar outcome.

Well... there it is. The ball`s in your court.

Now back to the scheduled programming.
 
TJinFL said:
Have patience with me as I am a newbie/amateur at detailing.

In the past I have primarily waxed and washed my vehicle. I was using Mother`s carnauba paste wax then about 3 years ago I upgraded to Klasse AIO followed by Collinite 476s.

But less than 2 months ago I got a new silver RAV4 and after using the KAIO and 476s on it began noticing white stains on all my porous black trim around the entire lower extremity of the vehicle. I have been able to remove it with Dawn and IPO. Apparently the 476s was the culprit which I ignorantly applied to the trim to protect it.

So I have been doing some research and have decided to start using a spray wax like D156 over the base coats.

I am beginning to see the complexity of the subject. Using multiple products to care for one`s car`s surface, change one variable and everything changes.

This morning it occurred to me that whereas most persons experience with apply spray waxes was that they go on quickly - say in 7 to 15 minutes to do the whole car. But my experience of applying D159 over a 9 week old coating of 476s was quite different. It took me most of an hour to apply the D156.

Now I had chosen 476s about 2 years ago when my plan was to wax my previous car say every 8 months and I was looking for longevity.

But now I realize 476s may not be the ideal base coating for a spray wax.

Also now I have discovered Aquawax, Optimum Car Wax, & Pinnacle Liquid Spray Wax.

I will probably dump the 476s because of the trim staining issues.

So what is an ideal base coat for spray waxes?? A wax such a Pinnacle Sovereign for example or a sealant such as WG high gloss sealant? Should one stick within a product line?
Click to expand...

I enjoy me some product synergy and I like to use D156 with Meguiar`s M21 or ultimate wax. Of the two ultimate liquid wax will not stain trim.

If you choose to go with optimum car wax, it can be used as a stand alone product. Optimum claims up to 6 months of durability. You can use it as a drying aid keeping protection on the paint.
 
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