Optimum Gloss Coat & Carpro DLUX 1 Year Update, Gyeon Tire Q2 1 Month Update - with GIFS

cf2121

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TL;DR – Optimum Gloss Coat (GC) works just as advertised with the proper maintenance routine. DLUX looks like crap (user error?) but beads like protection is still there, Gyeon is awesome.

Note: these GIFS are all prior to washing the car

https://gfycat.com/HappyGregariousCollardlizard

https://gfycat.com/NaughtyAlarmingCaiman

https://gfycat.com/WelcomeOpulentAsp

https://gfycat.com/CompassionateAnchoredIsabellineshrike

https://gfycat.com/GleamingHighCur

https://gfycat.com/EnlightenedTimelyAlpinegoat

I usually wash my car about three to four times a month (once a week or so). Keeping up with this routine has obviously made things easier to clean along the way. In my previous job I was parked near a rail yard which had my car contaminated very easily. I had to clean out my coating once a month with an Iron X application across the whole vehicle. Since I switched jobs and am now parked in a normal lot, I see significantly less contamination on my paint.

I’ve clayed my car once in the past year, which was the beginning of June. I have spot clayed in the past year, but not top to bottom like this. There was nothing crazy on the paint, I suspect the coating helped keep surface contamination to the minimum.

For soaps, I stuck to Carpro Reset and Optimum Car Soap. I found that soaps with waxes in them quickly masked the hydrophobic abilities of GC and even gave the appearance of a sloppy failing LSP.

The first few weeks after I applied the coating I used Ammo Hydrate to dry the car. While it dried it no problem, it left a streaky surface because the spray wax couldn’t absorb into the coating. Similar to the soaps with wax, it left an undesirable sloppy beading effect.

ONR and Meguiar’s D114 both work very nicely with GC. I had no issues with either when drying the car with those.

I used the Turbo Dryer from PBMG to dry my car 95% of the time. The water would fly off the surface with ease.

There is little to no marring introduced on my paint.

The wheels are a different story. While the coating is still there, it is not as pronounced as it used to be. Instead of beading all over, some spots slowly sheet off water. I think the heat from the wheels may have something to do with GC not holding up as well as it did on the paint so far. If you have the opportunity & right tools and work space to do so, I would still recommend coating your wheels, especially if they give off tons of brake dust like mine do. It has made cleaning them very easy.



DLUX can be a real PITA. It’s hard to apply, streaks easily, and doesn’t always come out evenly. It works, don’t think I’m not saying that it doesn’t, there’s just a ton of variables with it that can easily make you frustrated or give you undesirable results. And trust me when I say I don’t want to discourage anyone from trying it. My Passat (link here) came out perfectly.

I think my problem was that I applied too much of it and waited too long to wipe it off. It’s only rated to last a year, so I think the appearance I’m getting is DLUX starting to wear off.

As you can see from the GIF, it still beads. It just looks like crap at the moment.

I applied it to my headlights and it looks and beads fine. Nothing odd to report there.



The Gyeon tire dressing is still beading after a month of use. While the gloss goes away after a week or the first wash, the tire retains a nice black matte finish to it. I have also noticed the tire staying cleaner than it would if it were dressed with something like PERL.

I tested Gyeon tire on a piece of trim on my car and it lasted about three weeks before wearing off.

Thanks for looking & reading!

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How did you prep your plastic trim prior to applying Dlux? I bought some, but waiting for some cooler weather to apply. I plan on scrubbing with Meg`s APC, then using an IPA wipe. Any suggestions?
 
How did you prep your plastic trim prior to applying Dlux? I bought some, but waiting for some cooler weather to apply. I plan on scrubbing with Meg`s APC, then using an IPA wipe. Any suggestions?

That`s what I did. I scrubbed until no more dirt or black came off when I wiped with the towel.
 
DLUX can be a real PITA. It’s hard to apply, streaks easily, and doesn’t always come out evenly. It works, don’t think I’m not saying that it doesn’t, there’s just a ton of variables with it that can easily make you frustrated or give you undesirable results. And trust me when I say I don’t want to discourage anyone from trying it. My Passat (link here) came out perfectly.

I think my problem was that I applied too much of it and waited too long to wipe it off.
It’s only rated to last a year, so I think the appearance I’m getting is DLUX starting to wear off.

As you can see from the GIF, it still beads. It just looks like crap at the moment.

I applied it to my headlights and it looks and beads fine. Nothing odd to report there.

Here`s a few little tips I use when I apply DLux.

1) I apply and do not wipe off. Smooth even swipes. Do not use too much product.
Apply it and let it dry. Do not wipe. Wiping DLux (when it is tacky) makes it look ugly.

2) On smooth flat surfaces I use the (included) applicator with the small microfiber cloth.
On surfaces with a texture this process can be an issue. (although, I have done it on tires)

3) I use a air brush on things like wiper cowls and tires (I like coating tires with Dlux).
Yes, I purchased a (inexpensive) air brush kit from Harbor Freight and it works awesome!

Air brush you say? I`m not a Picasso...Nor am I, and I`m not the first on this band wagon.
For tires, the air brush gets DLux in all the tiny grooves, looks great, and wears like iron.

Air brush lays it down even & smooth & I think it uses less product than the mf applicator.
When done, I pour the Dlux from the air brush back into its original bottle and seal it tight.
The trick...let the DLux dry before moving the vehicle. It looks great & lasts a LONG time.
 
Here`s a few little tips I use when I apply DLux.

1) I apply and do not wipe off. Smooth even swipes. Do not use too much product.
Apply it and let it dry. Do not wipe. Wiping DLux (when it is tacky) makes it look ugly.

2) On smooth flat surfaces I use the (included) applicator with the small microfiber cloth.
On surfaces with a texture this process can be an issue. (although, I have done it on tires)

3) I use a air brush on things like wiper cowls and tires (I like coating tires with Dlux).
Yes, I purchased a (inexpensive) air brush kit from Harbor Freight and it works awesome!

Air brush you say? I`m not a Picasso...Nor am I, and I`m not the first on this band wagon.
For tires, the air brush gets DLux in all the tiny grooves, looks great, and wears like iron.

Air brush lays it down even & smooth & I think it uses less product than the mf applicator.
When done, I pour the Dlux from the air brush back into its original bottle and seal it tight.
The trick...let the DLux dry before moving the vehicle. It looks great & lasts a LONG time.

Thanks!! I will try all these next time I go to use it.
 
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