Undercarriage Protection?

Rust proofing applied yearly by a company called Rust Check is my Undercarriage Protection.

Honestly I'm looking for a more permanent solution or something I could apply/remove myself with jack stands in the fall/spring.
 
Short of a good rust proofing, the 2nd best way to protect the undercarriage is to run your car through a 'touchless' wash and get the chassis bath option. My dad has done this for years and his cars hold up pretty well. If nothing else, it will knock the heavy dirt/salt off the car before it can cause damage.
 
When I bought my (new to me) truck with 30k miles (in January!), I got Auto Armour rust proofing and undercoating. In time, I noticed several spots (frame and rear wheel wells) where it just didn't take. It's a story in another thread...I had it resprayed a few weeks ago after I pressure washed the heck outta the underside. This is the standard black rubberized 'stuff'. I also can have it inspected and resprayed as needed annually at no (additional) cost to me.

Recently, on another forum discussing undercoating, I learned about Fluid Film. It's a lanolin based product that would seem to have superior lube and rustproofing capabilities. (I'm using it for locks, hinges, wheel wells, etc.) Great for do-it-yourself as it's far less messy than 'rubberized paint'. The downside is that for the undercarriage, it would need to be done annually...still worth considering for some (especially inside rocker panels, doors, fender wells, etc.).
 
If you guys are looking for a product you caN apply yourself, try LPS3 RUST INHIBITOR.

Absolutely awesome stuff. Doesn't look offensive, doesn't collect a whole wack of dirt but most importantly, the protection is there.
 
Striker said:
If you guys are looking for a product you caN apply yourself, try LPS3 RUST INHIBITOR.

Absolutely awesome stuff. Doesn't look offensive, doesn't collect a whole wack of dirt but most importantly, the protection is there.
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It's not marketed for automotive undercoating so I would question the durability.....

LPS 3® Premier Rust Inhibitor is a specially formulated long-term corrosion inhibitor protecting metal parts in inside storage for up to two years. When applied it forms a soft, translucent, waxy film sealing out moisture, air,acid, alkali fumes, and other corrosive elements.


footnote: In all but the most humid environments, I wouldn't expect much, if any, rust in "inside storage" even if/when untreated.
 
As you wish. I can tell you from first hand experience that it works in a Canadian daily driven car. I discovered this product because my father use to work in the aviation industry and would occasionally bring it home. It was very hard, impossible to find local.

I've sprayed the underneath of my summer driven car, so that isn't a fair comparison. I did all the little bits in my dad's engine bay with it, the brackets, small screws et. Things that typically rust out within a couple years. Still mint.
 
I hear you Striker, but this is like somebody using interior paint outside and saying it holds up well....if the company doesn't back it for exterior (and automotive undercoating) use, the result is on the user. Just my $.02, but I think it's better to use a product designed and marketed for automotive undercoating.
 
Dispatch said:
I read kerosene works as an undercarriage protectant but I would think that might not be such a good choice.
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Undercarriage lamp - lol. Although I have heard of heavy oils being used, especially for rustproofing (doors and rocker panels).
 
Oils are thin (OK for getting into tight spots) and/but don't provide lasting protection IME. Need redone too often for my taste too and they can be messy. There are some really great DIY products for this these days, but you gotta do it right or you'll get "pockets" that'll retain moisture and lead to rust-out after all.

Kerosene? Nah...not a good choice IMO.
 
Accumulator said:
Oils are thin (OK for getting into tight spots) and/but don't provide lasting protection IME. Need redone too often for my taste too and they can be messy. There are some really great DIY products for this these days, but you gotta do it right or you'll get "pockets" that'll retain moisture and lead to rust-out after all.
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That's why the best rustproofing places use a grease that doesn't run and it isn't thin. Rather than having to be redone yearly the grease rust proofing only needs to be touched up once every 3 years.
 
My foxbody mustang was covered with stuff from rust check. These cars were made of tin. Car is messy, but immaculate.
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
That's why the best rustproofing places use a grease that doesn't run and it isn't thin..
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But you do want something that really "creeps" into tight spots, which is why the newer products are (IMO) better than the older-tech products that just can't get down into things like crimped/welded seams. The older stuff can coat the seams, and keep water/etc. out, but without getting down into them they can't entirely stop corrosion that started during the intial build (like the rust that killed my Mazda MPV).
 
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