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Thread: Rotary Usage

  1. #196
    Dream Machines SVR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ICANDY
    ah huh, I understand now why you pushing this Aussie Gold stuff so hard





    I don`t like glazes Matt, no clarity.

    I`ll stick to this high clarity carnauba instead:



    ]



    Don`t confuse Showroom glaze with 3M imperial hand glaze or other filler glaze

    It`s just a top quick detailer with sealant that just happens to enhance the finish every time you use it and last longer than some pure sealants

    The clarity on my car from it is simply outstanding IMO



    I`ve gone right away from waxes, won`t have any in my shop from now on

    Not saying your wrong or I`m right, we just have varying products, style`s and opinions which I think is good.



    Only reason I`ve promoted it so much is because it works brilliantly and craps all over all but one of the QD`s that I have bought. All these so called great QD`s like FK 425, UQD, CG`s extreme slick, Zaino Z8 etc are like water compared to it and Driven`s Concentrated QD

    Especially in the slickness, shine,clarity, wetness and also that it is machine applyable and polishes and protects windows, wheels, interiors and more.
    Car care/detailing sadly isn`t high on the agenda for 98% of australians.

  2. #197

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    I have a question about selecting a rotary machine.



    Many (not all) of the higher-end rotaries I see people mention (dewalt etc) have variable speeds that START at 1000 RPM. What gives? Is it important for a rotary to be able to spin slower than 1000?

  3. #198
    JAFO Junebug's Avatar
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    Check out Makita 9227, 600 rpm to start and you get the "slow start" feature, think of it as letting the clutch out slowly.

  4. #199

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    My thoughts after using a rotary for the first time this past weekend.



    Don`t be scared of it. If you start out at a lower RPM until you get the feel of it you will have more time to react to it trying pull you all over the place. It took me most of the hood to start to get comfortable so thats 4 passes over a pretty big hood. Using smaller 6" pads will help as well I found the 8" pad would drag me all over. Once you feel like your getting the hang of it just up the speed a bit. Each time you change surface I would lower the speed. I went back to about 800RPM when I started on the C pillars, doors bumpers etc each pass i upped the RPM a few 100.



    It`s not at all what I expected I thought I would spend the entire time scared to death that I was going to burn the paint. As long as you keep moving and watch your speed you will be fine. My Rotary has a trigger that operates like a throttle no the on off that the PC has. That makes it great for cutting in and picking up product.



    Like anything in life your not born with experience that you get by doing so get out there and try it.
    You can say any foolish thing to a dog, and the dog will give you a look that says, `Wow, you`re right! I never would`ve thought of that!`

  5. #200

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    I have read all these pages several times. I also purchased my Makita several weeks ago. I finally broke it out. I washed my DD F-150 and went to town. My experience was fantastic with a white polishing pad and slow speeds. I have a new truck. Yes, I burned a small spot on the tailgate. It`s not as bad as I would have thought. I will keep practicing, but I`m not scared after all the help from my fellow Autopians.

  6. #201

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    so the Makita 6227 is the best rotary for beginners? I want to polish my car myself so I`m assuming rotary is the best way to go? I want to be able to take out very light scruff marks for scratches, nothing deep at all.

  7. #202

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    so my uncle just gave me a northern industry tool, polisher and by the looks of it, it has a 7inch backing plate, is there a way i can switch that out for a 5inch so i can use 6inch pads or do i have to stick with 7inch pads? im really a newbie when it comes to rotary tools, but i`ve been reading for a couple weeks now on them

  8. #203

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    To control a high speed buffer it just takes practice. To help you with the pad skipping try to tilt the buffer to the right side a little. This should help. But do not tilt it to much because you will start cutting into the paint more then you want. You need to keep the pad as flat a possible with a very slight tilt to the right. As for the correct steps in pads and compounds go to this thread that I posted a few days ago.



    http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-det...junk-yard.html

  9. #204

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    I have a B&D 9533 9 inch, 2400 rpm Random Orbital Polisher and would like to know if it would work for polishing out swirl marks on my 2007 Buick Lucerne CXL which has the sharkskin color special paint. If so, where can I get foam buffing/polishing pads/bonnets for it? It has a fixed fairly soft non-removable pad which bonnets fit over. I haven`t seen anything except the terry cotton or poly bonnets. Any help appreciated.

  10. #205

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    Long... but nice helpful posts... thanks...

  11. #206

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    Quote Originally Posted by morven39
    I have a B&D 9533 9 inch, 2400 rpm Random Orbital Polisher and would like to know...


    Welcome to Autopia!



    I`d repost this as a new thread. Nobody with helpful info is likely to see it here in this rotary-centric thread. Your machine is *not* a rotary polisher, and you don`t (IMO) want/need one either.



    I for one would *not* use the B&D machine on your paint, at least not with cotton/poly bonnets. IMO you`d be *MUCH* better off to either find some microfiber bonnets for it or, infinitely better idea: get a better machine. Seriously, that thing isn`t gonna do much good and it could do a lotta harm....sorry to be so pessimistic.



    Look into the Flex 3401 (nice but pricey) or the Porter Cable or Ultimate Detailing Machine. There`s a mountain of info here about these.



    Maybe check out the thread that coke4class recently started, in which he asked about what machine he oughta get.

  12. #207

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    woohoo! My name was mentioned!



    Indeed it is very difficult decision for a newbie to the detailing world with "machine". All i`ve really used was my pure elbow grease... but now i am at the point of stepping up the game... so I am thinking about this porter cable...option... ive read nothing but good things about it from here and other forums that i am and guys use it on here...!



    Thx for posting some really good info guys!

  13. #208

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    Thanks for the reply. I will check out the Makita and Porter Cable polishers and see which one I like best. I am too old to do the polishing with elbow grease but would like to keep my car looking good.

  14. #209

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    Just read the entire thread... Someone posted about "not" using your QD spray to prep new pads prior to buffing. So what "are" you supposed to do to prep a clean pad prior to use. Once I`ve got some product on the pad and have made a few passes I just lay a strip of product on the panel, turn on the machine, angle it some and get to work without sling.

  15. #210
    Icon Detailing BIOLINK's Avatar
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    Nice work guys! New to Autopia and gravitated right to this thread. I should have joined up a long time ago.



    I may stick with the PC for a while. It`s working good so far. No major correction needed yet.



    biolink

    :goodjob

 

 
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