NEW: Auto Magic Polymer Clay Bar

[David Fermani]

Sounds pretty different from what`s they`ve been offering for over 2 decades:







From their website: Clay Magic Detailing Car Clay Products



Clay Magic® Polymer Clay is an advanced clay that contains an embedded polymer that helps to glide the bar over surfaces better than ever. These polymers also add a layer of surface protection and shine to your finish. It’s ideal for use before and between regular wax jobs. Polymer Clay is softer than other clay bars, which makes it easier than ever to mold and form. It removes harmful surface contaminants such as paint overspray, tree sap, bug residue, industrial fallout, bird droppings, and other stubborn dirt.

Polymer Clay is safe on all paint, chrome, glass, fiberglass and plastic. It’s also body shop safe. Use it with Clay Lube.



200 gram professional size clay bar in a re-sealable zip storage bag.

[MirandaDetailin]

This looks interesting! So it leaves some type of protection? I will have to try it.

[C. Charles Hahn]

Very cool. Looks like the original patent`s nearing expiration has forced even the originators to innovate.

[Garry Dean]

There was a company at sema that had a black bar like this that they claimed laid down a layer of sealant like protection... I think the company was called Aero or something like that. All of their products were in aluminum bottles. They were giving out samples, but it sounded rediculous to me so i passed it up...

[Scottwax]

Very cool. Looks like the original patent`s nearing expiration has forced even the originators to innovate.

That`s exactly what is going on, if they don`t make any changes, they can`t renew the patent again.

[SVR]

its too late for them I`d say. the asian nanoskin towels and pads are a better way of doing overspray and contamination removal

optimum may have something coming for contamination removal so the old clay block is pretty much obsolete

[C. Charles Hahn]

its too late for them I`d say. the asian nanoskin towels and pads are a better way of doing overspray and contamination removal

optimum may have something coming for contamination removal so the old clay block is pretty much obsolete

Overall I`d have to agree with you, but even the towels/pads/sponges have their limitations.



I thought what Optimum was coming out with was just another slightly different version of the mana-sponge/elastrofoam brick?



I still keep traditional clay on hand for certain jobs.

[Innovative Detailing]

its too late for them I`d say. the asian nanoskin towels and pads are a better way of doing overspray and contamination removal

optimum may have something coming for contamination removal so the old clay block is pretty much obsolete

I have to agree............with this industry now at a faster pace then ever, alot of these new innovative products will completely change our industry. With my arsenal of non clay products, the need for any clay is a thing of the past!.....

[VR8]

Just for fun, reviving this old thread because I just stumbled on the "Polymer Clay" at Detailed Image and thought I would give it a try. Unlike many of you, from the comments above, I enjoy using "real" clay vs the clay towels and pads. Not intending to hash out which of those is better. I was just curious if any of you have used the Polymer Clay? Any noticeable differences? Pros/Cons?

[Accumulator]

VR8- Never used that one, but I`ve used (what I assume to be) such clay from other vendors. It`s my first choice when I have reason to use something more aggressive than Sonus SFX.

[VR8]

Okay, so I used the Polymer Clay on two cars this week as they weren`t badly contaminated. I found it to be slightly softer and more pliable. It also had a smoother, slick feel. Not anything adverse, just different. Speaking to the performance of the clay verses the more common blue fine grade version, I`m hard pressed to see much change.

Maybe it left the surface water beading a little more active, then again, maybe not. Too close to call yet.

John @ Hill City Auto Detail

[SGM2008]

What did you use for a clay lube John?

[VR8]

Meguiar`s Last Touch

John @ Hill City Auto Detail

[SGM2008]

Meguiar`s Last Touch

John @ Hill City Auto Detail

Thanks!

[Lonnie]

Since someone has revived a 5-year old thread about Blue Magic Clay, I would like to add that I have used this clay exclusively since it was discussed in this forum as THE clay to have for removing imbedded contaminants from paint and glass surfaces. I have yet to migrate to the clay towels and pads so many of you fellow Autopians are now using for the sake of speed and supposedly clean just as good as the clay bar. Maybe it is just the fact of actually seeing the imbedded contaminants in the clay that I like and know that my time-consuming physical efforts are indeed being rewarded by having a clean surface.
My clay lube of choice is Meg`s Professional Line No. 34 "Final Inspection" as this was recommended by highly respected Autopian Dave Fermanni (I think) at the same time the discussion about Blue Magic clay was taking place. I have also used the AutoMagic clay lube that came with the clay kit and it , too, is OK.
I think it was/is identical to the No.49 Auto Shine (the purple stuff) that could be purchased from Auto Magic area distributors by the gallon. I just prefer Meg`s No. 34 FI as it was available OTC at most auto parts or body shop supply stores. I also like the fact that it acted like a cleaner along with the clay. I did try Optimum`s No-Rinse (ONR, as it is called here) diluted/mixed to "lube strength", but it did not seem as "slippery" as Meg`s FI. The trick is to make sure you have a cooler (but not cold!) surface out of the sun and used just enough (light mist) FI to provide the lubricity to slide the clay over the surface, but not too much that the clay never actually "grabs" the contaminants or too little that the clay smears and leaves streaks across the surface being cleaned. I was/is a learning process on how much lube to use AND how much pressure to apply to a surface with a piece of clay. I also found that it is MUCH better to have a larger piece of clay in hand, but not so big that you are wasting it and it`s difficult to handle. I think most detailers can tell when it`s dirty enough to kneed the clay for a new exposure to clean with OR when it`s just time to chuck the clay piece from a really dirty surface. (And ,yes, I am "frugal" so I do pick out "chunks" from the clay as I come cross them, like bug guts or tar balls, and then continue to use that piece, BUT not with yellow or white lane stripping road paint splatter or "drops"; that stuff is scratch city!) What IS so amazing, as stated above, is actually seeing the imbedded contaminants like brown iron, black road tar, or yellow-green tree sap that is not removed by regular soap-and-water washing. I usually keep the old clay after cleaning and show it to individuals who`s vehicle I am detailing to compare to a new piece to prove to them that , yes, your vehicle was really THAT dirty.