PC with 106ff help please

[scholar]

for starters, I`ve used PO85RD with success. picked up some Menzerna 106 a while back and had a chance to try it today.



detailed a 2 month old Honda Pilot today. also first time doing a Honda, by the way...no swirls. just wanted to spruce it up gloss-wise. did the whole wash/clay/106/WGDPS routine (via PC)



anyway, I only noticed a slight difference in gloss. not eye-popping as I was expecting. like I said, Ive had success with 85RD before, though on a different make/paint and I haven`t really had any experiences with Honda paint. I`m pretty sure I`m doing something wrong:cry:



I`ve always used the PC this way:



spread on speed 3

up/down, side/side on speed 6 until polish breaks down

(usually between 3-4 passes=3-4 up/down, 3-4 side/side)



any feedback is appreciated. feel free to critique my process as I really want to "enjoy" the Nano



thanks all

[Cleaning Fool]

Well, my first thought is how much more gloss do you think you can achieve on a 2 month old vehicle? Also, I think the more neglected the paint is on a given vehicle, the more we perceive it as doing a great job, and the bigger transformation you can make.. Conversly on a well taken car of car you won`t always walk away looking like a hero...Just some pyschological thoughts to ponder...

[scholar]

that`s what I thought....was just looking/expecting for a more "wet-look" with 106ff.



thanks

[ptaylor_9849]

I`m with cleaning fool on this one again regarding the newness of the car. However, I will probably get spanked for this but I`ll say it again anyway. Most polishes, including 106ff which I have used extensively for 2 years, require heat to fully break down and work their magic. A P/C does not generate nearly the heat that a rotory does and therefore will never deliver the ultra high glossy shine that a rotory can. The best way to describe it is to think of it this way. A rotory with a good polish will BURNISH the finish and it is this burnishing that creates the high gloss. If you don`t have alot of money to spend then buy yourself a cheap thirty dollar Chicago Electric rotory and go slow at first. You`ll soon discover exactly what I`m talking about regarding polish breakdown and you`ll quickly see how it was the machine, not the polish that was holding you back.



Patrick

[scholar]

but I thought the only advantage a rotary has against a PC is correction abilities like cutting swirls and scratches.



like i`ve mentioned, I`ve had success with 85RD on a PC, although on much older paints like you guys have pointed out.



time to save up for a rotary...hehe



thanks guys.

[mixxer]

BS!!! you can get awesome results with a pc and menzerna nano 106ff. this is menzerna 106 ff with orange pad only never stepped down,wouldnt look any differnet witha rotory.Its process not product! http://autopia.org/forum/click-brag/96205-detail-i-did-evolution-performance-inc.html

http://autopia.org/forum/click-brag/97233-another-detail-mixxer-evolution-gto.html

[ZoranC]

BS!!! you can get awesome results with a pc and menzerna nano 106ff. this is menzerna 106 ff with orange pad only never stepped down,wouldnt look any differnet witha rotory.

I would beg to differ. My experience so far indicates certain tools, starting with rotary, can bring out level of gloss that can not be achieved with PC/UDM. There has been number of discussions on that subject on this forum.

[SpoiledMan]

I agree with Zoran. I have done side by side testing and there is a better finish with the rotary than a DA. Not something you can capture on film but you can see it in person.

[99blackSE]

edit: read your post wrong

[imported_DieselMDX]

looks like i have to become more effiencent with rotary

[imported_themightytimmah]

If you are going to stick with a PC and are looking for a *wow* wet-look, I would highly recommend Einszett`s Metallic Polish.



I have never really liked the Menzerna`s via PC - Mixxer`s photos look about as good as any on the forum, but in person, there`s a level of perfection beyond simply "defect-free". I have been able to achieve this level only via a rotary and finishing pad.

[ptaylor_9849]

I love how when I give my opinion I get kind responses like "BS" from Mixxer. Here`s something you should think about Mixxer. Between Zoran and Spoiled Man they have over seven thousand posts on this site alone, but I guess you know better.

[SpoiledMan]

Its process not product!



The product didn`t change but the process would. The process of working 106ff *does* create a better/brighter/clearer result with a rotary than it does with a DA.

[scholar]

guys, sorry for creating such a storm. it was just an innocent plea for help.



I also appreciate all the feedback.



i do understand that a rotary will always finish better than a PC. I will never argue that point. but i`f i`m too stubborn to stick to the PC is there anything wrong with my process? my main concern was (using the same PC process) why am I not getting the same result with 106 when i`ve used 85RD "successfully" (to my liking)



like CleaningFool said, it just maybe too young of a car/paint. I will try it again on a different car and see what happens or maybe try 85RD on the same car.



thanks again, guys..... and I`m really sorry. I didn`t mean to create such a storm



GROUP HUG ANYONE???

[imported_grease]

I would beg to differ. My experience so far indicates certain tools, starting with rotary, can bring out level of gloss that can not be achieved with PC/UDM. There has been number of discussions on that subject on this forum.Not trying to be argumentative...but I could see someone like Scottwax arguing that point.



Just curious...what are some of these other tools?