Wolfgang vs Pinnacle Products? Does anyone recommend either?

Hotchamp07, give me a call (I don't bite) We can work out something for you to use on your VW that will work and you can top if off with Blackfire Wet Diamond All Paint Protection and Collinite for maximum shine and protection. :wizard:
 
^great service right there. I "+1" the KBM kits they're trying to steer you towards- exactly what you'll need and use; nothing you don't need or won't use. Lovin' the ride BTW - looks clean and the rims look great with your set-up.
 
While there's nothing "wrong" with that other site or their products, but,you will save money and have better stuff by dealing with PAC. I know first hand cause I've gone through the same stuff. Here, you'll get the straight talk and not the "everything is the best BS" that they push.

PM me if you want more info.

JB
 
hotchamp07 said:
Can you tell me your black fire setup you have going on? ... pads/ color/ product. Any pics?
Click to expand...

I am currently in the middle of polishing my red 96' Prelude VTEC. So far, I clayed with Mother's claybar and detailing spray and used PO106FA (my favorite polish, BTW:))on a green LC pad. I started out using the white pad, but for some reason it wasn't finishing down to my liking, so I switched to the green. My car had very minimal swirling, so I could get away with the green pad instead of white.

From the looks on the car, I probably don't need it, but I'm going to give a shot at jeweling today with PO85rd on a grey pad to see if I can get a better finish. I'll probably try half the hood first and see if I can tell the difference. If yes, I'll keep going. If not, I'll stop and put down the Blackfire. I plan on putting two coats, one day after the other. I'm sure it'll look great already, but I've decided to try PAC's signature "Wet Ice over Fire" shine and top it off with Midnight Sun. Since the Blackfire stuff has to cure, I probably won't be done until the end of the weekend. I'll try and have pics once I have it all done.:clap:

Some pics of my old ride with Blackfire:
P1010061.jpg


P1010067.jpg


Wash n' clay
Intensive Polish with white LC pad
Final Polish with white LC pad
Two coats of Blackfire
 
There is certainly nothing wrong with either of the kits you posted here. The problem is that I really cannot compare the products because I am only mildly familiar with them. Quality products, regardless of brand, are a tool; often it is the experience of the user that will dictate the quality of the final results. I am not saying that one brand may not be better then another, but often times it is how well the user understands that product that is more important. Some products just work better with certain people, which is why there are so many (correct) opinions about which products are the best.

If you are looking for more information on those products and how to use them, you might get more accurate information and better suggestions by going to the product manufacturer.

If you looking to make your car shine, and are results driven, then I truly believe our KBM kits are a really good option. We, properautocare, really take pride in being one of (if not the) oldest on-line retailers of boutique car care products. When we developed the KBM kits we consulted with not only Kevin Brown (who may be the most educated dual-action polisher user in the world) but also with our high end detailer friends around the world.

Meguiar's M105 and M205 are very good (although slightly more costly) polishes that use the latest technology in aluminum oxide refinement to virtually eliminate the need for a medium polish, since either functions as one.

If you look at our kits you will notice that they feature either or Hi-Gloss (by Lake Country) pads or Meguiar's excellent Softbuff 2.0 pads. One of the least understood, yet most vital, parts of DA polishing is understanding the relation between the machines movement and how much of that movement is transferred to the pad.

This article may be of help: The TRUTH about choosing a D/A backing plate.

Our pads, as well as the Meguiar's are built with features that safely allow the use of the largest backing plate possible, thus allowing for the most efficient use of the machines.

The design (flat faced) of the pads also increases the surface area of the pad, increasing the amount of polish working at the same time. This increases the cutting speed, and the even distribution of the polish across the surface of the paint may increase the finish.

The addition of Meguiar's M34 Final Inspection (detail spray) was chosen because it can be used on the paint's surface with affecting the performance of the polish. If you use other detail sprays, that may have waxing agents, you could create an adverse effect.

A lot of thought, and testing, went into bring these kits to market. With a little experience, I truly believe you can get near professional level results, and make the Volkswagen shine!
 
I truly appreciate your concern and all of the concerns of detailing fanactics out there (me too) in helping me understand what is best.
I agree that in reality all the products listed in this post are good quality, but I wanted to get a general opinion on what most people think...... which seems to be the 105/205 combo.

I think i might be going with the 105/205 combo but would like to know just a few more things before i get annoying..lol.

1st) Just to get things straight, I dont remember where someone told me this but LC CCS pads are not the best ones out there because they might "trap" polish and might actually hinder the polishing process when more polish is applied to them. So I was recommonded to go with
LC Flat Pads
LC Constant Pressure Pads or
LC Hydro Tech pads...
Is this correct? Any pads suggestions (color, type, brand) that would go nicely with the 105/205 combo in removing swirl marks and appling 105/205 with Blackfire wet diamond?
for example: Orange pad with 105, white pad with 205....

2.) Last questions is what is a good way to determine when I have found the good combination of pad and application for the car? I know experience falls heavy on this one but should I expect about 99% of the swirl marks, marring, halograms to be removed? Or what is the most likely percent of perfection I should expect when using the 105/205 combo? (I do realize deep straches will not come off :)
If you could tie in the question #1 with #2 that would be alot more helpful.... example

"I use the LCC flat pads with 105 and work it for about 6-8 sections passess and then approxiamatly 95% of the imperfections are gone. This tells me I can work the polsish in for about 2-3 more sections passess to get about 98% of the imperfections out."


If i dont make sense please bare with me... :).... Im new at this and just want to make sure I dont screw up my paint or stop polishing when I could have polished a little longer and gotten a flawless look or vise versa.


Truly... All this advice if very appreciative. :thumbup:
 
Most of my pads are the CCS pads. I've never had trouble with them. I also have a variety of other pads (Can't help it. I see "SALE!" and I buy!) that I use. They all perform about the same for me.

I've used M105 on occasion on one of my cars that had heavy swirls. I used an orange LC flat pad with it on my Flex (setting #5) and it pretty much got all of the swirls. If it was a light colored vehicle, I would've been done, but the car was metallic black. I could still see a slight haze. I switched to a white LC CCS pad with M205 (setting #5) and that pretty much did the trick.

The vehicle I was working on was an Acura. They supposedly have soft paint, but I believe the paint on VW's are much harder, so what worked for me might not work for you.

I'm sure someone with experience on VW paint will chime in, so just hold your horses.:)

Also, check out this thread in the How-to section:

http://truthindetailing.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=430

After I read the article, I pretty much stopped asking questions and just started doing it.:hurray:
 
One of the things many folks don't do enough is to hit the section again with the same combo. We live during a time that most people want instant results and are not patient enough to keep working for something. I was one of those until I realized that if that last pass took away about 40% of the marring let me do it again and get 80% and then ONE MORE TIME.

I see some of Todd's posts that say something like "PFW, M105 2 to 4 x"! I realized that approach some time ago and it has been the key on some jobs. Does it take longer? Absolutely but I like to level down to just below the deepest scratch and not anything more. Many impatient detailers try something that may get that first 40% or 50% and then change to a more aggressive combo to get faster results thinking their first test pass didn't do it. They may be cutting more than they really need to when they change out to something more agressive.

(sorry guys, I just realized when I reread this that it's a little off topic but just wanted to share a bit of personal experience in working a correction)
 
New Here

Welcome me! While I've read all the comments on this thread, I can say that I've used Wolfgang total swirl remover with an orange pad and it takes a while to get the results. That is a very soft mix of compounds in that bottle and unless you want to spend time working the paint, you better get something stronger than that. Like everyone said here, you have a harder coat than most of us ( I have newer Japanese paint that chips just by looking at it).
 
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