Why SSR 2.5 and not SSR 2.0?

It is a call that you have to make depending on the surface of the car, there are varying amounts of marring that may not require 2.5. The thing that attracts people is that man times 2.5 is so efficient that you can go straight to your LSP making 2.0 unecessary
 
yeah, that's what I heard, SSR 2.5 has the ability to remove swirls and leave that shine ready for sealant and wax...

actually I'm using SSR 2.5 with cutting pad and now I'm going to use SSR 1.0 with polishing pad without going through SSR 2.0, I think that will be ok :)
 
blackcarwoes said:
Can anyone explain how 2.5 finishes better than 2.0?



Im wondering since i am about to order 1.0 and 2.0

thanks
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I use the SSR 2.5 because it will remove more swirling/ defects than SSR2.0 and still does not leave hardly any micro marring if any. I have in some cases used the SSR2.5 and went straight to EX or EX-P. Just my experience.



JC
 
blackcarwoes said:
THanks for the reply,

what im wondering is how the more abrasive polish 2.5 can leave a better finish than the 2.0?
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I think it's in the way it breaks down no micro marring, when I use it with a polishing pad I find I can go right straight to the LSP if time is a constraint HTH
 
I use 2.0 and it works great, but its not as popular because its not as abrassive as 2.5. 2.5 is like DACP and can be broken down to a LSP ready finish. I also think 2.0 can be LSP ready also, but it needs to be worked in a little longer than 2.5. 2.0 is weaker and closer to #80 so you only want to use it if your swrils are not that bad. Yes 2.5 and 1 are enough, but if you want something not as strong as 2.5the 2.0 is great. IMO SSR1 is a waste of time as a SMR, it just a final polish to remove some marring from 2.0 or 2.5 on dark colors. If you have swrils 1.0 does not work, I get better results with FPII.
 
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