Why can't I get my Brilliant Black Charger's exterior scratchless? The way I wash it?

E

Egoolps

New member
I've only had my Charger for a year.



In the shade (during the day), it looks great. However, in the sun, it looks like there are a million microscratches on there.



Is that just the nature of the beast having a brilliant black car? Or am I doing something wrong?



I wash it once/week using the two bucket system.



Meguiar's shampoo.

Lambswool mitts for the top, hood, and sides.

Microfiber mitt for the lower portion of the car.



California water blade to dry off around 90%. Anything I can't get with the blade I use a microfiber towel.



I wax it once every 3 months along with using the claybar.



What gives? I treat this car great. Why can't it treat me great?



Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
There are so many factorys that contribute to micro scratches on the paint. It is probably a combination of things.. I don't use a blade anymore.. not sure if that might contribute.. i'm sure others will chime in.



Did you polish it and start with a completely swirl free finish? Did the dealer prep it?



When I'm not sure whats going on, I first start off with a completely swirl free finish. Then when I wash, I go in circles, and when i dry I go up and down.. then i inspect the paint.. if the scratches are straight up and down, or circular you know why..



so, I would polish it and use different movements for washing and drying... then inspect.
 
Legacy99 said:
Why are you claying before every wax? Do you polish after claying? That could be your problem.
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I thought you were supposed to clay before waxing (I do it every 3 months). If so, when should I be claying?



qwertydude said:
Yes you need to polish it. Just waxing alone will only hide swirls temporarily.
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What is the best order?



Wash-Claybar-Polish-Wax?
 
Egoolps said:
I thought you were supposed to clay before waxing (I do it every 3 months). If so, when should I be claying?







What is the best order?



Wash-Claybar-Polish-Wax?
Click to expand...



After washing and drying, get a zip lock bag and run your fingers lightly over the paint. If you can feel grit or bumps then you need to clay. I havent clayed in 1.5 years.
 
For darker paints only use surfactants with very high surface tension. The darker the color the higher the surface tension. I'd suggest nothing lower than 8.0 on the standard CRC test. Get back to me if you need more details on how to measure surfactants.
 
You might want to use the California Blade for anything except drying off your car. The premise behind the blade is great and can even work on harder clears that are anything but black. Unfortunately, due to the nature of black cars, I would use a leaf blower and the softest MF towels you can find. Even then it is near impossible to keep swirls off the car.
 
I dumped the 'blade, and saw less marring. I now use good WW towels, and pat dry, not drag the towel.



I'm much happier nowadays.
 
Which products list the surface tension? I haven't really been seeing much in the surfactant rating in the detailing chemical arena.
 
Edwards944 said:
For darker paints only use surfactants with very high surface tension. The darker the color the higher the surface tension. I'd suggest nothing lower than 8.0 on the standard CRC test. Get back to me if you need more details on how to measure surfactants.
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Huh? :nixweiss
 
Edwards944 said:
For darker paints only use surfactants with very high surface tension. The darker the color the higher the surface tension. I'd suggest nothing lower than 8.0 on the standard CRC test. Get back to me if you need more details on how to measure surfactants.
Click to expand...



Very interesting! You could be a great help to this community to either re-explain this entire regiment/process or start a thread on it. I'm sure you will get a lot of interest. Sounds facinating.



Hey said:
I dumped the 'blade, and saw less marring. I now use good WW towels, and pat dry, not drag the towel.



I'm much happier nowadays.
Click to expand...



Right. You're no longer going 2 steps forward and 1 step back. But, you still have scratches and need them removed to really "start over from scratch" (pun intended).
 
Holden_C04 said:
Huh? :nixweiss
Click to expand...



Hi Holden, I found this quote in Wikipedia on Surfactants. It should clear up all your confusion...



"Surfactants reduce the surface tension of water by adsorbing at the liquid-gas interface. They also reduce the interfacial tension between oil and water by adsorbing at the liquid-liquid interface. Many surfactants can also assemble in the bulk solution into aggregates. Examples of such aggregates are vesicles and micelles. The concentration at which surfactants begin to form micelles is known as the critical micelle concentration or CMC. When micelles form in water, their tails form a core that can encapsulate an oil droplet, and their (ionic/polar) heads form an outer shell that maintains favorable contact with water. When surfactants assemble in oil, the aggregate is referred to as a reverse micelle. In a reverse micelle, the heads are in the core and the tails maintain favorable contact with oil. Surfactants are also often classified into four primary groups; anionic, cationic, non-ionic, and zwitterionic (dual charge)."



:chuckle: :D :har:
 
Don't know nuthin' 'bout no surfactants, Mr. Edwards, but congratulations on the significant improvements in grammar, composition and spelling!



Welcome back.
 
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