Which rotary to get.

9

94 NDTA

New member
I have used my PC7424 for many year on about 30-35 times.



Well, someone stole it from me.



So I figured I would put my big boy pants on and get a rotary. I have plenty of cars to practice on.



What are some of the main ones I should start looking at? This is for a hobby, not for my profession.
 
I prefer the DeWalt unit myself. The DeWalt has plenty of power, and has a great variable speed trigger. I PERSONALLY hate the soft touch trigger on the Makita, but the Makita is a very smooth machine. I hear the Festool is a really nice unit also, but quite expensive.
 
Dewalt=Heavy. Unless you're the governator this thing will wear you out. Or maybe I'm just a wimp? I do prefer my Metabo; there's nothing like polishing via rotary with one hand. I think my next machine will be the dual mode Makita.
 
My Makita was handed down to me from my dad and is still a great tool. Had to replace the cord but thats it in the last 10 or so years.
 
I have used may DeWalt tools, and don't mind them a little heavy. How is it compared to a PC 7424? The dewalts I am finding are about $100 less than the ones you guys have mentioned, I'm guessing it is mainly beccause of weight?
 
I use a makita 9227.



I would recommend a flex DA. I couldn't use a rotary by itself, I always finish with a PCXP, a flex DA is the best of both worlds.
 
I have used both a DeWalt and Makita. I liked both, but they do have their differences. I wouldn't really say whether I have a preference of one over another.



Although, I wouldn't recommend picking up a rotary and not having a DA. If you're inexperienced using the rotary you are very likely to get holograms or buffer trails. Instead of finishing up with a DA to finesse the the trails out you are just going to be hating yourself and get frustrated that it doesn't look as good as the results you were getting with the PC.
 
todd@bsaw said:
I have used both a DeWalt and Makita. I liked both, but they do have their differences. I wouldn't really say whether I have a preference of one over another.



Although, I wouldn't recommend picking up a rotary and not having a DA. If you're inexperienced using the rotary you are very likely to get holograms or buffer trails. Instead of finishing up with a DA to finesse the the trails out you are just going to be hating yourself and get frustrated that it doesn't look as good as the results you were getting with the PC.
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I wouldn't need a PC if it wan't stolen from me. I'm still pissed off.



So you should always have a PC when upgrading to a rotary.
 
94NDTA said:
So you should always have a PC when upgrading to a rotary.
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To be able to finish out with a rotary takes quite a bit of experience with a rotary. It will take you a while to get to the point where you can confidently approach every car knowing you can finish hologram free. Once you get to that point, use the PC for applying AIO's, Glazes, and LSPs and consider buying some carpet brushes.



Also, if someone is only paying for a one step, a PC or a Flex will let you work a little more aggressively and not have holograms.
 
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