Which of these products are clear coat and powder coat safe?

[RallyPig]

Hi there,
I have some TRULY awfully plasti-dipped wheels. I dont *think* they are clear coated after they were powder coated - but I like all my products to be fairly clear coat safe (sometimes its windy and cars are nearby). I did not dip them I took them in trade for a turbo I was not using last fall. I dont really think I like looking at dip after this lol. Must have been on for a couple years, and a few VT winters.

Its taken me about 3 hours a wheel JUST to get the dip off one wheel safely. I have two wheels 98% neon green/black dip free. The other two (while the faces were given to me pre-peeled) are still to be done.

I have tried..

-Turtle Wax Bug and Tar remover (their new product, this product has worked the best but still slow)
-WD40 (soaking, scrubbing, soaking scrubbing)
-PB blaster (WD40 had a minor effect on some stuff, but not enough, just appeared to clean it)
-Goo Gone (didnt touch it)
-Goof off (same effect as WD40)
-Acetone
-Engine degreaser (failed a spot test, worked -but lightened the overall color on the barrel).
-A myriad of brake dust cleaners (helped me get TO the dip..)

I have used 0000 steel wool, terry cloths, fairly rugged scrub brushes, toothpicks and more.

0000 steel wool and turtle wax bug and tar is the winning combination so far, but there has GOT to be something on the shelves that will dissolve it.

I have been recommended (but want your guys opinion of what might help and what is safe before I spray them on my Gold BBS wheels)...
Xylene, Mineral Spirits, Brake Kleen, Turtle wax label and sticker remover, and turpentine.

I did some research and found Naphtha is used to thin the dip - and the product "dip dissolver" is composed of a d-limonene based cleaner, which AFAIK may be on some shelves as a similar citrus cleaner. I would have to go there and read all the bottles I think to find one, but I will soon. Chlorine based chemicals also appear to melt dip but chlorine will change/bleach the shade of the wheels Im sure.

Here are some photos of what I am working with (Im wondering if it has some amount of regular paint preventing the chemicals I tried to work right, in a layer somewhere).

http://imageshack.com/a/img921/4092/wl716v.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/2213/Mok036.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img921/8443/inCBkw.jpg

Thanks in advance!

 

[512detail]

I have no idea...but just wanted to bump this for someone else who might know

those wheels are sweet-- the prev owner did them a serious injustice

good luck

 

[Lonnie]

RallyPig:
If acetone did not remove the plasti-coat, then youve got one BIG problem. Youve found a process and chemical that works without damaging the wheel, then I would suggest stick with it. NOT what you want to hear and ALOT of work and time for one wheel. The toothpick tool is a detailers trade secret.

Once you are done removing the coating, I would suggest using a series of different shaped polishing cones (some call them bobs) with a drill or dremille-tool. The polishing cones are used by motorcycle shops and enthusiast to polish around the spokes on rims/ I know that Top of The Line detailing sell a kit for wheel polishing, but its designed for chrome rims and the cones are mostly felt-material or wool and the polish that comes with it is for chrome. You might consider using some Mothers foam cones and various compounds and polishes for clear-coat. Keep us informed how you proceed and post more pictures of the final results.

 

[Accumulator]

General Rule: If youre even remotely uncertain as to whether [whatever] is safe for [whatever], just dont use it. Get something thats known to be both safe and effective. Yeah, its easy for me to spend other peoples money, but still...there are just *so* many safe and effective products available, why risk [screwing] something up?!?

PB Blaster is effective as a penetrating oil for corroded fasteners, but I seldom use it as its virtually impossible to clean away thoroughly (so no painting anything it gets on..). I wouldnt expect a penetrating oil or a water-dispersal product to remove that stuff.

I have no idea whatd be safe and effective for those wheels (Id just send them to a Wheel Repair Shop, but again...easy for me to spend your money) but I sure wouldnt use Xylene (for a lot of reasons).