Where do i start?

I

iDetail

New member
Ive been reading on this forum for a couple weeks now and i am completely lost when it comes to detailing. Im one of those people who likes to be somewhat versed in the project before actually starting it. So, i thought coming on here and reading a little would educate me enough to be comfortable using the products and buffer.



I own a 2005 G35 and a 2003 Subaru WRX both of which are black and i would LOVE to make them look like some of the black cars i see on here.



Here is my problem. There are so many damn products and steps. I get so lost and confused when im reading your guy's process. I read about all the different pads you guy's use on your buffer's but i have no clue what the difference is between them. And then there are the thousands of wax's, compounds, sealers, glazes, ect that are used. Its just a lot to take in as a n00b.



I'll let you know the condition of my cars. The G35 has some paint scratches but not too many, but it does have some good swirls on it.



The subaru not only has swirls but has some good paint scuffs on it.



Where do i start? I am truly lost here. :hairpull



Thanks,



Adam
 
Exterior detail process

Wash

Clay

Wash- optional in some cases

Polish

Glaze- optional

Seal- optional

Wax



What I do when Im about to detail the outside of a car...

Wash, degrease, clay, wash, pull into garage, bring out halogens and inspect paint. By this time I already know what the clear is like on the car because Ive done a good amount of research in this area. That is the first step in narrowing down what polish and pad combo Im going to do. Then after inspecting the paint with the halogens, I bring out the least aggressive combo I think is going to work. Most of the time this is a light cutting pad with a mild polish. If that doesnt work then simply step up the combo.



The glaze is optional because its really used as a filler. Basically if youve got a really bad car, and could get rid of all the swirls with your polish, then get a glaze with a filler in it to help HIDE the swirls. I VERY rarely use a glaze. In fact, Ive never used one on a customers car, only mine.



No sealants are a little tricky, some need time to cure, some dont, some can be used on top of Carnauba, some cant. So you need to do your research and know your sealant.



Wax can be applied on top of anything. Different waxes do different things depending on the paint. Some are better for dark colors, some better for lights. Some bring out flakes, some mute them.



For your cars I would recommend a Porter Cable 7424, LC CCS pads, XMT Poorboys, or Menzerna polish, pretty much any clay is fine, for wax I recommend Pinnacle Souveran Paste, or Pinnacle Signature Series II.
 
I tend to use the K.I.S.S. method when it comes to most things. Detailing is just one more thing. (Keep it simple stupid)



So on an outside detail (and my results really speak for themselves) I would say what I do on 95% of my details is really all that is needed.



First degrease the car. engine bay, door jambs, wheel wells, fuel door

wash the car (whatever stikes your fancy)

dry the car (water sprite or whatever. Blow the crevices out with air)

pending on condition of the paint it's either a 3 step or a two step process

if its a 3 step process

Sythetic cutting cream with synthetic pad on a rotary

follwed by a wax cream with a wool pad

followed by a wax (nanotech is my prefered choice but carnuba works well too)

dress the tires and wheel wells

do the windows

pull the wax off

deliver the car to an extreamly happy customer than can't beleive how new and shiney their car looks.



I very rarely ever have to do anything above and beyond that for an exterior detail



If I don't think I need to use the wheel I will clay the car to get it extra smooth though.
 
I'll take the KISS approach to an even greater extreme. And while I don't want to sound all :argue I'd *never* suggest that a beginner start using a wool pad on a rotary ;) Heh heh, I don't even like to tell somebody that they have to buy a PC!



iDetail- Welcome to Autopia! I don't blame you for feeling overwhelmed. My recommendation below is what I suggest to friends/relatives who are not into detailing but want to step up from the usual layman's approaches. Men, women, young, old, they've all been satisfied.



First, learn how to wash/dry without marring the paint. There's plenty of info here about how to do it. No point in marring up the paint over and over with poor wash/dry regimens.



Clay the paint to clean off contamination. The ClayMagic or Mother's kits are a good way to go but be careful about others as they can mar the paint.



Get some 1Z Paint Polish (medium strength) and 1Z Metallic Polish with Wax (milder). These work fine by hand and will make for a *huge* improvement. Very effective and also *very* user-friendly, about as much so as this stuff gets. Sources: Welcome to Exceldetail.com! or Aloha & Welcome to Our Oasis for All Your Auto Detailing Supplies & Accessories.



You rub the polish into the paint using a foam or MicroFiber ("MF") applicator until it's barely dry. Then buff it off with a soft MF towel. (Note: the "let it dry" is 1Z specific and not a good idea with many other products.) If marring remains, repeat the process until you're satisfied... or tired of doing it ;)



If you're too tired after all the wash/clay/polish steps, you can wait and apply wax after the next wash; the 1Z polishes leave wax behind and it will last for a few weeks.



For the final protection, put some Collinite brand wax (same sources if it's not OTC in your area) on top of the 1Z polish using a foam applicator. Apply it thinly and evenly, and then buff it off with a MF towel after it dries. Done. The Collinite will last for an incredibly long time and you won't believe the beading.



The above approach is time tested with numerous people of varying experience levels. It will work. You can always get more involved/complicated/etc. later but IMO it's best to keep this whole thing manageable when you're starting out.
 
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