When to switch to a circular

[YoSteve]

wow what a predicament to be in



(purely just to check) check out the W8 (8 cylinder passat), okay at $40 maybe you'll be able to get two of them at some of the prices that the other cars have to offer, but I heard its real nice.

 

[tthomp82]

I have been using my PC DA for over 2 years now and have contemplated the switch to circular for speed and higher correction abilities.

1. Am I wrong to think that the same results cannot be acheived with the DA?

2. Will it really save me more time?

I love detailing as much as the next guy, but putting in a whole day for just one car seems excessive - when I would rather be driving it. Thoughts?

 

[imported_Flash Gordon]

I have been using my PC DA for over 2 years now and have contemplated the switch to circular for speed and higher correction abilities.

1. Am I wrong to think that the same results cannot be acheived with the DA?

2. Will it really save me more time?

I love detailing as much as the next guy, but putting in a whole day for just one car seems excessive - when I would rather be driving it. Thoughts?

1) No you cannot acheive the same reults with a CP wink as you can a rotary. Having said that you also cannot ruin a finish with a CP

2) I have never used a CP so I really don't know, but I can make a single pass (1 step) with a rotary on the average sedan in less then an hour.

Hope this helped Sleep

 

[Lazzman]

Rotary buffers are not for the faint of heart or inexperienced, they can easily burn through paint on edges and corners very easily.

You have to make sure the circular is prepped correctly so the polish won't dry to quickly and you have to use enough polish.

I have a Flex Orbital but using it is boring for me because I really like to keep my hands moving. To get the most out of an orbital you have to move very slowly.

The Circular for me takes about half the time and effort. I use a good amount of polish rubbed into the pad and make sure the pad is very well lubricated with pad lubricant, I usually start off around 1200rpm and then move up.

In the long run though it won't save you that much time, maybe a third less than with the orbital but you can damage your paint easily.

There is really no comparison in the polishing ability of the PC and a good Circular like the Makita. 10 amps of power is a mother load and will provide brilliant polishing action, compared to the rather lean 3.7amp PC.

 

[Dave1]

1) No you cannot acheive the same reults with a CP wink as you can a rotary. Having said that you also cannot ruin a finish with a CP

2) I have never used a CP so I really don't know, but I can make a single pass (1 step) with a rotary on the average sedan in less then an hour.

Hope this helped Sleep

Well, that may not always be the case.....

Some well known pro's have put their rotaries on the shelf since 105/205 showed up on the scene. The time differences are getting closer without the negative effects.....

It's more often the fiddler, not the fiddle.........

 

[imported_Flash Gordon]

Some well known pro's have put their rotaries on the shelf since 105/205 showed up on the scene.

Maybe so, but not this one :wink:

 

[tthomp82]

then would the compromise be to use the Flex over the Porter Cable due to the different nature of the spin?

 

[imported_Flash Gordon]

then would the compromise be to use the Flex over the Porter Cable due to the different nature of the spin?

From what I've gathered the flx is much more efficent and is able to correct alot more defects.

 

[imported_doctordon]

It's more often the fiddler, not the fiddle.........

Great line - I'll have to remember that!:iagree:

 

[imported_broker99]

go for it. I learned on a rotary so a PC for me is way too slow. Pick up some a panels at the junk yard to pratice. Good luck

 

[imported_glfahlc]

the only machine i've used other than a rotary is the old type buffer. i wanted the best and quickest correcting machine so i chose the rotary. the learning curve is steep but i wouldn't go any other way... i may not be correcting 100% like the pros do but its getting closer everytime i do it. i haven't burnt through any paint yet either...

 

[Old Pirate]

With the KBM method, one can get the job done with their PC.

 

[Tucson buffer]

Another point of view for the rotary, is when it comes to jeweling the paint, as outlined by Todd in his article "Achieving the Ultimate Shine" dated 10-01, he points out that Jeweling can ONLY be accomplished by using an rotary. Also, I find it very interesting, that most, if not all, guys that detail for a living, have both.

 

[BIOLINK]

I have both and use either just as often as the other. On softer paints I still like the DA (well....PC). I also like the PC for applying cleaner waxes like Klasse.

Bottom line: They both have strong points. You will not abandon your DA when you get a rotary.

Do it!


:White Horse:

 

[Todd@RUPES]

Another point of view for the rotary, is when it comes to jeweling the paint, as outlined by Todd in his article "Achieving the Ultimate Shine" dated 10-01, he points out that Jeweling can ONLY be accomplished by using an rotary. Also, I find it very interesting, that most, if not all, guys that detail for a living, have both.

Let me clarify my statement, I believe that a rotary is an integral part of paint 'jeweling' as I define it. Other definitions may look at it different, but the process of reducing pressure and speed really only offers a benefit when you used with rotary polishers and a diminishing abrasive polish.

If you are using a non-diminishing abrasive polish or a dual-action polisher you can likely still achieve the same final gloss, but the process required to do so is different IME.

Reducing pressure or using too soft a pad on a dual-action polisher can actually reduce the quality of finish, although so slightly, that most people will never tell.

 

[Puckman]

I'm still much more comfortable with my circular at this point of my experience level than my DA. I have done the KBM with both machines and can "feel" correction a little better with the circular. As Todd mentioned, I do all of my fine polishing with the circular by varying my pad/product/pressure/speed of movement.

I had been using a DA for about 3 to 4 years before switching out to a circular. Never looked back until the KBM use of 105/205 and even after experimenting a bit with that method I now go to the circular for most cut downs and fine polishing. For me it does save time and offers better results.

Can't really comment on the Flex having used one for all of about 4 minutes about 2 years ago to try it. At the time I already had my PC DA and my Hitachi Rotary and wasn't looking to get another buffer. If my PC dies (good luck on that one) I will replace it with one of the current, more powerful DA's on the market (probably the PC 7424XP).

I use my rotary for a lot more applications on many different paint conditions and characteristics. I just think it's more versatile once you get a good "feel" for the machine however it's good to have both as I still use the DA on every detail for AIO and LSP's.

 

[imported_User Name]

I think Kevin Brown has raised the bar on what you can do with a DA, however, I think he acknowledges there remains a time and place for the rotary.

I don't use a rotary and probably never will because for me, the trade off for speed, isn't worth the problems that a buffoon like me might encounter with a rotary.

Also, as pointed out, M105/M205 really helped DA users speed up their process of correction.

 

[imported_Flash Gordon]

I think Kevin Brown has raised the bar on what you can do with a DA, however, I think he acknowledges there remains a time and place for the rotary.

I don't use a rotary and probably never will because for me, the trade off for speed, isn't worth the problems that a buffoon like me might encounter with a rotary.

Also, as pointed out, M105/M205 really helped DA users speed up their process of correction.

Wonder where ole Kev has been....Hadn't heard from him in ages :yawn: