when to prime?

D

dougsrt

New member
Hi all I'm a bit confused. I do I need to prime a clean foam pad before correction/ polish or use an x of product or circle of product on the pad ?
 
I always prime the pad before using it. What I'll do is put the polish onto the pad and work it into the entire face, covering all the pores. After, I'll put down my working product; usually 3 pea sized drops and start working.

Others may comment, but this is how I learned and I think it is considered the "proper" way, though as we know, detailing can be done a number of "proper" ways.
 
radarryan said:
I always prime the pad before using it. What I'll do is put the polish onto the pad and work it into the entire face, covering all the pores. After, I'll put down my working product; usually 3 pea sized drops and start working.

Others may comment, but this is how I learned and I think it is considered the "proper" way, though as we know, detailing can be done a number of "proper" ways.
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This is known as the Kevin Brown Method. I believe its the "right" way as well.
 
Don't always prime, it depends on the pads, I notice ccs and especially mf pads clog easily so unless you have pad washer on stand by or are using a very fine polish id say prime maybe every 3 panels. Mf pads clog very fast with heavy compounds so make sure to use a fair amount of water or lube.

I always use the m&m style. 5-6 dots of m&m sized. You can always put more on but can't take a away. I notice the most defect removal is usually with the least amount of product. Overloading the pad will really hinder the cut and make a huge mess, it will also be a nightmare with very soft paints.
 
I am no expert on polishing but seems the Kevin Brown Method is perfect for SMAT. When I tried this method (Mike P's shows it graphically) with Menzerna I have way too much polish..seem to take forever to break down...to get it as pretty looking as Mike has it in his pics.

With Menzerna, I just put 2x the amount or so (3 to 4 blobs after that depending on work area), spread around, and start. The pad is not nearly as saturated initially.
 
Bunky said:
I am no expert on polishing but seems the Kevin Brown Method is perfect for SMAT. When I tried this method (Mike P's shows it graphically) with Menzerna I have way too much polish..seem to take forever to break down...to get it as pretty looking as Mike has it in his pics.

With Menzerna, I just put 2x the amount or so (3 to 4 blobs after that depending on work area), spread around, and start. The pad is not nearly as saturated initially.
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Spot on, I really stick with menzerna and that is definitely the case. Make sure you know difference between dats an smats.
 
Great info !! I think doing a test spot with each pad and product seeing which method works best is the way to go thanks everyone! :)
 
Bunky said:
I am no expert on polishing but seems the Kevin Brown Method is perfect for SMAT. When I tried this method (Mike P's shows it graphically) with Menzerna I have way too much polish..seem to take forever to break down...to get it as pretty looking as Mike has it in his pics.

With Menzerna, I just put 2x the amount or so (3 to 4 blobs after that depending on work area), spread around, and start. The pad is not nearly as saturated initially.
Click to expand...

The Driver said:
Spot on, I really stick with menzerna and that is definitely the case. Make sure you know difference between dats an smats.
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Wow, great to know! Thanks guys! I've currently only used SF4500, but have bought the entire Menzerna range for future polishing needs (after using PO85rd I was sold on the lot). I'll keep this in mind since my prior polishing experience was really with SMAT products (Meguiar's, Optimum, etc.)

:rockon
 
radarryan said:
Wow, great to know! Thanks guys! I've currently only used SF4500, but have bought the entire Menzerna range for future polishing needs (after using PO85rd I was sold on the lot). I'll keep this in mind since my prior polishing experience was really with SMAT products (Meguiar's, Optimum, etc.)
Click to expand...

I think the argument is that the full prime method allows the most effective correction (fast, most cut) but KB also supposed based it upon a DA using M105 with lots of down pressure. All I know if you over prime initially you might as well get a new pad. Also, I believe polish amount is related to work area ...whether it is 12x12 or 20x20. You can always add a tad more as you spread initially a low speed to optimize the amount.
 
I Prime LIGHTLY with any polish initially. It just seems to make sense to me to have the whole pad working at 100% efficiency from the get go. I also prime because I tend to use NOT ENOUGH polish - unlike most that use too much.

However, I've found with the Rupes SYSTEM priming isn't required and isn't even beneficial - it's overkill. The polishes seem highly concentrated to me. So, I just use WG pad spray instead - exactly 1.5 sprays on a fresh pad. No more - no less. Then I apply 3 or 4 dime size drops to start, pea size after that.

Basically for Rupes, I followed the method Rupes uses in their videos. Since they designed the system, I think they know more than me.
 
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