whats the most aggressive combo for the orbital buffer

hamanncheese

New member
I'm looking for more aggresive cutting action from my current setup:



Porter Cable orbital with Meguiars 6" backing plate and W-7006 cutting pad using DACP.



My current combo is great for minor swirls and scratches. But, I'd like to takle some deeper scratches (fingernail deep in the clear coat) without using a rotary.



any suggestions? Is there a product thats stronger than DACP that I could use to takle deeper scratches using my orbital? or is this as good as it gets with an orbital?
 
I just tried 3M perfect it III Rubbing Compound and it seems to be a little more aggresive than DACP and worked well. There were still some deeper marks that will need something with more cut. There are many people using 1Z Polishes and getting great results. 1Z Ultra Polish is much more aggresive than DACP and is safe to use with a PC, I think I will try this next. Menzerna Power Gloss is another I am thinking of trying.
 
hamanncheese said:
I'm looking for more aggressive cutting action from my current setup:



Porter Cable orbital with Meguiar’s 6" backing plate and W-7006 cutting pad using DACP.



My current combo is great for minor swirls and scratches. But, I'd like to tackle some deeper scratches (fingernail deep in the clear coat) without using a rotary.



any suggestions? Is there a product that’s stronger than DACP that I could use to tackle deeper scratches using my orbital? or is this as good as it gets with an orbital?



Not really. If you can put your fingernail into it, that means it's pretty deep even for a rotary buffer.



The problem with removing deep scratches with the PC is that it's just that it's polishing action is just too gentle. That's why they're so safe, they're gentle.



The more aggressive you get with the PC, i.e. more aggressive pad, more aggressive compound, may enable you to take out a deeper scratch, but it will not leave behind a clear high gloss finish. It will usually leave behind a dull, less clear surface.



That's when you have to resort to the rotary buffer to restore the gloss. The direct drive rotating action of the rotary buffer offers a polishing effect that just cannot be duplicated by the oscillating action of the PC.



At least that's my experience.



Stevet offers some suggestion you can try. If it were me, I would try these other products with your PC in a small area first and then compare the surface clarity and gloss compared to an area next to before going over the entire car.



If it looks good... go for it.



Mike
 
Mike,



Thanks for responding. The reason why I'm asking is because I had the unfortunate encounter with a defective clay bar from a quick clay box i picked up at irvinebmw. I've never had problems claying a car, but this particular one heavily scratched up the trunk of a brand new g35 i was detailing. It was really brittle compared to the usual clay bars i get.



do you think i could bring it by to let you look at it? it's just the trunk that got scratched up. I stopped claying the car when i noticed the scratches. The scratches can be barely felt with your fingers...but are too deep for the orbital to tackle. btw, i met you at the NXT intro party.
 
hamanncheese - Welcome to Autopia. I hope Mike can help you out. I agree with him; trying to do "rotary work" with a PC is problematic at best. Been there, tried that, finally bought a rotary (even though I hardly ever need it). There are times when the PC just isn't the right tool for the job.



Using a damp (with water) wool pad will up the aggressiveness of most polishes a fair bit over a 7006 cutting pad. While inducing its own marring, though.



The PI-III RC (05933) is pretty mild. Even with a damp wool pad it didn't cut all that aggressively for me. Sometimes the 05933, used with a foam pad, will even give a ready-to-wax finish. The 1Z Ultra works much better (but DOES leave its own marring which you'll have to remove). So yeah, you have a few more options before you're out of PC territory. But I wouldn't go any harsher than *that* with a PC. The really harsh products leave marring that you have to REALLY work to remove, taking off more paint as you go. The PC just doesn't break them down the way a rotary does and so the PC approach ends up being a lot HARDER on the paint.



Other people use stuff like Diamond Cut with a PC, and strong compounds from other manufacturers by hand, so maybe YMMV, but I'd rather err on the side of caution.
 
Thanks accumulator,



i think i'll give the 1Z Ultra Polish a try with a foam cutting pad. where can i get this stuff?



how does the PI-III RC (05933) compared to the 1Z ultra, as far as its cutting abilities. What should i use after the 1Z to remove the marring? DACP with a polishing pad, meguiars swirl remover?
 
hamanncheese said:
Mike,



Thanks for responding. The reason why I'm asking is because I had the unfortunate encounter with a defective clay bar from a quick clay box i picked up at Irvine BMW. I've never had problems claying a car, but this particular one heavily scratched up the trunk of a brand new g35 I was detailing. It was really brittle compared to the usual clay bars I get.



do you think i could bring it by to let you look at it? it's just the trunk that got scratched up. I stopped claying the car when i noticed the scratches. The scratches can be barely felt with your fingers...but are too deep for the orbital to tackle. btw, i met you at the NXT intro party.



Hi hamanncheese,



Sure, you can bring it on by. I'll PM you my schedule for the week, or if you like, I'll be teaching a class this Saturday, come on by with it in the afternoon and have a piece of pizza and a cold pop.



That clay bar by the way sounds like some bad clay we had but have since replaced with a brand new clay. I'll give you a bar of the new stuff and fix your problem if you can bring the car with you.



Mike
 
hamanncheese- You're fortunate that Mike is nearby and can help you out. I'm confident that he'll solve the problem.



But just FYI, about the polishes, the 05933 is much milder than the 1Z Ultra. Probably about the same as DACP, maybe a LITTLE more aggressive.



After using 1Z UP, I follow up with 1Z PP to remove the slight marring the UP leaves behind. When I use 1Z stuff, I generally use ONLY 1Z stuff for that vehicle. I get mine from the Autopia store.



Watch what Mike does when he fixes your problem. The Meg's stuff he uses might be just what you oughta have around. Especially after seeing how he uses it. IMO, he's an incredibly valuable resource for you to have available and I'd take full advantage of your good fortune.
 
Accumulator,



O5933 is much milder than 1Z Ultra? Have you used Perfect it III Extra Cut Rubbing Compund? How does it compare to 1Z Ultra?
 
stevet- Sorry, but no, I haven't tried the Extra Cut.



Yeah, the 1Z UP is considerably MORE aggressive than the 05933. I was trying to remove a scratch/swirl on the roof of my S8, using a rotary and various pads. Started mild, got more aggressive until I found what was effective. I had planned to use 3M products. The PI-III was NOT removing the marring much at all, so I switched to my 1Z stuff. The 1Z UP DID remove it.
 
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