What would you charge for this paint overspray job? (4 pictures)

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AppliedColors

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:hairpull



This is a scary job because of the potential to damage the plastic and paint beneath the road paint. Road paint is so dangerous to work with because:



1. It is formulated for extreme permanence (it gets driven over by cars day after day).

2. It contains sharp shards of reflective material to enhance its visibility in night conditions.



We'd likely:



1. Pressure wash all surfaces. This will remove any loosely bonded material, but I'd expect most to remain.

2. Soak with thinner. Wipe. Soak with thinner. Wipe. Soak with thinner. Wipe.

3. Polish clearcoat and respray black plastic as necessary. Black plastic could be redyed black and we could even re-clear any paint that we damage, as we are a mobile spot repair company as well.



The paint on the trailer is scary because it's likely a one step acrylic. We don't know how it will react to solvents, or how thin it is.



These wipes claim to remove road paint by dwelling chemically for 60 seconds, then wiping with an abrasive cloth:

Road Paint Remover



They seem too small for this application, though.



Any ideas for alternate removal methods? Steam? Goof Off? Adhesive remover? Cement remover?



I'm thinking $700 onsite would be a fair amount for the job. The construction company who opened up this obviously not-safe-for-traffic road has agreed to pay a reasonable amount to the truck's owner for removal.
 
I would first test an area to see if it even can be removed. You might be better off replaceing the plastic mouldings and such rather than trying to clean them up.
 
AppliedColors said:
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The construction company who opened up this obviously not-safe-for-traffic road has agreed to pay a reasonable amount to the truck's owner for removal.
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That sure was generous of them! Keep in mind their deductible probably isn't less than $1000 and they are completely liable for the damages to this vehicle.



Your proposed means of remediation look pretty good but my gut tells me you are going to have to pull out some sand paper. I would first remove all the trim (which seems to have taken the brunt) and remove all the yellow from the painted areas that are not replaceable. If the simple "wipe and soak" doesn't solve the trim's issue, replace it. Might even look better without the trim.



M2C.
 
This is how I'd adjust for the damages:



I doubt the paint will come off any of the non-painted surfaces, so that will need to be replaced. The yellow paint on the painted surfaces isn't bad and will come off without alot of work. As fas as the trailer, the paint might come off the carpet if it can be shaved off with a razor blade, if not replacement would be considered. I don't think you'll have a problem removing the paint from the trailer either. The trailer light and trim bezel will need to get replaced too. If you can't remove the paint on the trailer, you'll probably have to repaint the whole thing. You might not be able to match that color good enough with just spot painting it? I'd remove the moldings prior to the removal to allow access to the sheetmetal around them. Reclearing/painting shouldn't need to be done on the truck.



$350-$500 for paint removal + parts/trim/labor. I'd say it's the mainstream going rate from my experiences. It looks alot worse than it is. Should take 2 people 3-4 hrs to complete.
 
KAR-PREP by KARDOL should take care of that, if not they have stronger solvents and chems. I cleaned up a buddy's truck but it wasn't even half that back.
 
Jakerooni said:
I would first test an area to see if it even can be removed. You might be better off replaceing the plastic mouldings and such rather than trying to clean them up.
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Agreed.



Time is going to kill you on that job, better to overbid than underbid and hate doing the work because you know you aren't getting what it is worth.
 
I tried to do a job with that road paint on a Rav4 just small spots kicked up on the side, it was only there for several hours. It wouldnt budge I tried 4 different solvents none of them worked.
 
My friend had a problem similiar to this after he drove his corvette over a freshly painted highway and the flagman assured him the paint was dry and he would be fine. Well when he got home he found white line paint all inside his passenger side wheel wells and it had dried and hardened. Now it was nearly all in his wheel well not much got on his paint but I used a plastic putty knife that I use for spreading dry wall paste etc and used it to scrape the road paint off. It worked great and removed all the paint. Now I'm sure this would leave some pretty good marring/scratches but if you are going to polish the car anyway it may be worth a try. It obviously won't look any worse than it does right now and I cant see why a good Polishing compound couldn't remove scratches made by a piece of plastic? The road paint that did get on his paint was minimal so I actually got it off with my fingernail. Here's a couple pics













Good Luck!
 
oh by the way that last pic of the quarter panel was before polishing! ha..ha..! But I saw that it showed all the road paint was gone from inside the fender so I posted it. I personly don't think there is a solvent in existence that will remove all that paint from those vehicles, IMHO I think it will need to be scraped off. Just my 2 cents
 
Don't be stupid enough to give him an actual quote, you have no idea how long that will take. Do it by the hour and make sure you're charging like $80-$100 per hour too.



What steps are you thinking?? Paint thinner for the bulk and then goo gone or something to finish up?
 
Why should your hourly labor rate double for removing road paint? Is our time more valuable for this type of operation? You won't be using that much more (if any more) chemicals than normal. If you use the right chemicals, it's not that big of deal to do this job. There's overspray companies that do this day in and day out and could never justify charging this much. If you've done these jobs before, you'll understand that it's not a big deal. I'd tell the customer that the paint that's on the non OEM painted surfaces(plastic/fabric) will need to either be replaced or refinished if you can't remove it. That way, you'll cover yourself.
 
David Fermani said:
Why should your hourly labor rate double for removing road paint? Is our time more valuable for this type of operation? You won't be using that much more (if any more) chemicals than normal. If you use the right chemicals, it's not that big of deal to do this job. There's overspray companies that do this day in and day out and could never justify charging this much. If you've done these jobs before, you'll understand that it's not a big deal. I'd tell the customer that the paint that's on the non OEM painted surfaces(plastic/fabric) will need to either be replaced or refinished if you can't remove it. That way, you'll cover yourself.
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Yes, the rate should be double at least, this is an extreme situation and most owners tend to expect you to wave a magic wand and everything be gone.



Did you actually look at those pics of the paint cakes on and all inbetween the little cracks and crevisses?



So David, if this job is "not that big a deal" then how would you suggest getting it off? You obviously have experience with this type of overspray.
 
David Fermani said:
Why should your hourly labor rate double for removing road paint? Is our time more valuable for this type of operation? You won't be using that much more (if any more) chemicals than normal. If you use the right chemicals, it's not that big of deal to do this job. There's overspray companies that do this day in and day out and could never justify charging this much. If you've done these jobs before, you'll understand that it's not a big deal. I'd tell the customer that the paint that's on the non OEM painted surfaces(plastic/fabric) will need to either be replaced or refinished if you can't remove it. That way, you'll cover yourself.
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Why does a dog lick his balls, because he can
 
I agree with Dave on this one. If you can determine that it even can be removed (by testing an area like I mentioned) it should fall into normal detail pricing. If you charge by the hour just charge your normal rate. Raising your rates due to the "diffculty" of the job is idiotic at best. ESPECIALLY if you already charging an hourly rate. this is a great way to ruin a reputation and get one in return for ripping off customers based on opinions. One set price for all jobs regardless. Only way to run a reputable business. If it's a hard job you'll get paid more for the hours you put in if your charging by the hour.
 
David Fermani said:
This is how I'd adjust for the damages:



I doubt the paint will come off any of the non-painted surfaces, so that will need to be replaced. The yellow paint on the painted surfaces isn't bad and will come off without alot of work. As fas as the trailer, the paint might come off the carpet if it can be shaved off with a razor blade, if not replacement would be considered. I don't think you'll have a problem removing the paint from the trailer either. The trailer light and trim bezel will need to get replaced too. If you can't remove the paint on the trailer, you'll probably have to repaint the whole thing. You might not be able to match that color good enough with just spot painting it? I'd remove the moldings prior to the removal to allow access to the sheetmetal around them. Reclearing/painting shouldn't need to be done on the truck.



$350-$500 for paint removal + parts/trim/labor. I'd say it's the mainstream going rate from my experiences. It looks alot worse than it is. Should take 2 people 3-4 hrs to complete.
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Agreed. I don't even think I would bother trying to get the paint off the plastic. From my experience road paint on plastic is a paint ot get off...UNLESS the guy just put some trim dressing on it before the accident.
 
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