What to use after megs 205
- Thread starter mkpedboy
- Start date
bigjizzles
New member
M205 is good for finishing, but it you just want a tad more sexiness, than 85rd and Ultrafina are the kings in finishing polishes.
take a look at this chart if you haven't already
Abrasives Chart
I dont any experience with OPT finish, but i do like their other stuff allot!
Abrasives Chart
I dont any experience with OPT finish, but i do like their other stuff allot!
Deep Gloss Auto Salon
New member
bigjizzles said:
+1... What he said!
Accumulator
Well-known member
I'm not *unhappy* with how M205 finishes on hard clear, but if I were doing something soft, and/or wanted the ultimate gloss, I'd burnish with something milder.
Menzerna FPII, 1Z ProMP, even an AIO with a tiny bit of cut. Probably 1Z HG too, if you know how to work it as a burnishg/jeweling polish.
If you stop at M205, I'd sure do the last pass(es) with a soft finishing pad though. With polishing pads, things can look OK under most conditions, but sometimes, *under very specific conditions* you'll see very light hazing.
Menzerna FPII, 1Z ProMP, even an AIO with a tiny bit of cut. Probably 1Z HG too, if you know how to work it as a burnishg/jeweling polish.
If you stop at M205, I'd sure do the last pass(es) with a soft finishing pad though. With polishing pads, things can look OK under most conditions, but sometimes, *under very specific conditions* you'll see very light hazing.
Accumulator
Well-known member
A combo I've been really happy with via Flex is the the *Griot's* orange pad and M205. Just a tad more cut than the LC white but still finishes out as well. That Griot's pad is once again becoming one of my faves since I've started using it with the Flex 3401.
Accumulator
Well-known member
03F250 said:
No, I'm referring to this one: 1Z Einszett Metallic Polish 1000 ml
Or at least I *think* I am as there have been numerous different versions of it and I bought mine a few years ago.
Note PakShak's differentiation between this stuff and the consumer line MP.
scary bill
New member
I like what I get from UF with a blue LC by rotary. The PC seems to leave the same finish from what I was able to test, it just takes longer. I polished the whole door on my truck by rotary, than did one half of the door again by PC. It has been at least a year since then and I still cant see a difference in the panel under any light.
I have yet to try FPII or 85rd, but they are very famous around these parts.
I have yet to try FPII or 85rd, but they are very famous around these parts.
Accumulator
Well-known member
scary bill said:
That seems to be a paint-dependent thing..my experiences are that I can finish out the same with rotary/not (except for the holograms
) but others have different experiences.That's pretty cool that it still looks the same (i.e., no new marring) after a year!
SuperBee364
New member
bigjizzles said:
Yup. Another one to consider is Menz FPII, and also Optimum's new Finish Polish, although I haven't tried that one yet. If your paint isn't soft (like a Honda), you could also try 1Z Hoch Glanz. Very easy to use, but is best used on hard paint.
SuperBee364
New member
scary bill said:
Same here, Bill. UF and FPII are the only two polishes that I can get to finish down perfectly by rotary on *really* soft paint. I've gotten UF and FPII to finish out holo-free on a black Bentley (softest paint I've ever done), a jet black BMW (second softest), a re-shot C5 (same softness as the BMW), and a Black Honda.
The really great thing about UF is that it has a lot more bite than FPII, and it's effective on hard paints, too. Sometimes it takes a second application of UF to totally clean up after compounding, but it is so fast and easy to use that a second application is no big deal.
scary bill
New member
Accumulator said:That seems to be a paint-dependent thing..my experiences are that I can finish out the same with rotary/not (except for the holograms
That's pretty cool that it still looks the same (i.e., no new marring) after a year!
Some polishes seem to take away from that "as good as I can get it" look. M82 comes to mind. The only thing that UF would not finish down was the hood of the Honda CR-V. Nothing I tried would work. The paint seemed to absorb the oils in the polish and no matter how much polish I added ( it would sling like crazy too) the panel would be dry after 1 pass of the pad. I left some not so faint holos on the hood, followed with the PC and UF and the same pad to clean it up. Even the PC fought me :nixweiss
W/o uf I would ahve to finish w/a PC to keep my finish holo free. I like the rotary for a number of reasons, feeling in my hands being most important to me. Have you tried UF by rotary to see if you can finish 100%, I have a hard time beliving someone with your exeriance couldn't most of the time.
As far as the mar free goes, thanks. I have a very odd wash techique that works for me.:dance
Accumulator
Well-known member
scary bill said:
No, I never tried the UF. And as I only do a few corrections per year, working to master finishing-by-rotary just doesn't appeal to me :nixweiss
Eh...I just finish out via Flex or Cyclo. It's just a personal preference of mine, but I simply don't like using my rotaries. REALLY don't like. Whereas the Cyclos are about as close to fun as this stuff gets for me.
On the "oils absorbed into the paint", I'm having issues with M205. Seems to take a *LOT* of IPA wipes to eliminate an oily haze that I can only see under my SunGun :think:
Oh, and I'm glad to hear you have your wash sorted out :xyxthumbs IMO that's the most important thing to master in the whole of detailing.