what the heck did i do wrong

S

sweetextreme

New member
so i have been buffing for 5 years and i have NEVER swirled a car with a foam pad. but today i used poorboys world SSR1 with a white polishing pad for the first time and swirled the living piss out of a red toyota. what could have cuased it? pad drying out or not enuf product? i used some eagle one nano wax crap i had laying around to prime my pad a few times. usually i use megs quick detailer. but like i said i have never ever swirled even with compounds with foam pads. all i can think of is the product just was to dry? once i waxed with nattys blue i couldnt see the swirls anymore in the sun but i no once the wax comes off they will be back.
 
I just bought a 2011 toyota highlander in black. I went through same thing. That paint swirls if you look at it. I went through it w/a LC HT pad(tangerine) and menz power finish 203. That left so much marring it was unbelievible. I tried some 106FA on a LC soft Green CSS and that left marring too. I finished the down the men 203 with some 85RD on a LC gray pad. That didn't leave any marring.

But after a couple washes and waxes there are more swirls. Going to hit it with the 106FA on a LC gray. The gray seems to work.
 
My guess would be that you're priming the pad and using with a polish that doesn't play well with it. I seem to remember Steve stating that the SSR's don't need to be primed or something along those lines. Makes it much more abrasive I think. I'd try using it per manufacturer directions and see how that turns out, as SSR1 has always proven to be a superb light polish for me.
 
im using a dewalt rotary. i should have been more specific. by swirls i mean holograms. i did a nissan altima gray yesterday and it looked fantastic. but it was also cloudy outside...
 
Try using SSR1 with a red pad and priming the "Kevin Brown Method". If your not familier with that technique, its pretty simple and very effective. Start off by basically flooding the pad with product, then aggressivly rub it into the pad with your fingers. After that, 1 or 2 drops of product is all you'll need each time you load the pad. It makes a big differance in how evenly the pad is spreading the product. There are videos on youtube showing exacally how to do it and I would post a link but my PC is acting stupid and wont load videos tonight.
 
Try getting your hands on a DA. I'm not exactly sure if Toyota paint is as soft as Honda paint, but that may contribute to your issues. PO85RD and M205 have always seemed to clear it up for me. I'll reach for the 205 more often since it has a bit more bite than PO85. Make sure the pad is completely clean also
 
thank you guys for your help. i assumed it could be the clear also. toyota clear coat sucks! i wonderd if i should have useed the red pad also. what do you guys think i should use after the SSR1?
 
sweetextreme said:
thank you guys for your help. i assumed it could be the clear also. toyota clear coat sucks! i wonderd if i should have useed the red pad also. what do you guys think i should use after the SSR1?
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I go on to sealant after SSR1. By the time you finish with SSR1, the paint should be about as good as its going to get. I never try to do any cutting or correction with it. I use it just as a final pass to brighten up what Ive corrected with compound and medium polish with more aggressive pads.

EDIT - If your planning to apply a glaze like Black Hole, you would probably want to apply that after SSR1
 
When ever you use an intensive polish you will end up getting swirls, (holograms) At slow speeds on any machine... Not sure about the polish but based on the fact that you have never experienced this issue I would say the polish you used was a form of "Intensive Polish" similar to Menzerna's intensive polish. You cannot use an intensive polish as a finish polish for this reason. In fact, the slower you run the machine the more swirls you end up putting into the finish.. Hope this helps.. May I recommend to use Meguiars #205 ultra fine polish as it is more of a finishing polish and will end up giving you the final finish your trying to achieve.
 
Hey John, it was just brought to my attention that the SSR1 is an ultra fine polish so my theory may be incorrect on your dilemma with the swirl issues. If in fact the polish is an ultra fine finishing polish then the chances of the chemical doing any damage is incorrect. I would like to hear more about what happened, what type of paint you were dealing with and what was the conditions you had to work with. I may be able to get you some solid feedback on this issue if I end up with enough back ground info...
 
In addition to what Mel has suggested, you might also want to get in touch with Steve or Pockets from Poorboy's directly and see if one of them can offer some additional insight on the situation.

There are so many variables to consider when it comes to product and procedural performance that it can be hard to judge what the root cause of a problem could be.
 
well im guessing it was something in the toyota clear, maybe too soft for the white pad or something, yesterday i did an 08 eclipse, sunset pearl, i washed, clayed, polished at 1400 RPM with a RED pad this time to be safe, with SSR1, then used poor boys EX sealant followed by nattys blue. now i no they say wait 12 hours but this praticular customer is all about shine he doesnt really care about it being sealed as i do his car every 2 or 3 months. anyway. it looked absalutly amazing! i think its a matter of getting used to what pads i should use with wich product. and i never new the lower speed the more swirls. thats good to no! i was tought the faster the more i will try that tomorrow as i will be doing a complete wet sand and buff.
 
A great detailer once told me that Poorboys has a big learning curve, but once you get past it you'll never look back. Ive found that to be very true especially with their polishes and pad choice. A good way to figure out what pads work with what products is to read through a bunch of write ups in the "Detailers Showcase" section. Several members here use Poorboys stuff and generally list what pad they used with what product and in what order. Its a great way to figure out whats working for others.
 
mrclean81 said:
Try using SSR1 with a red pad and priming the "Kevin Brown Method". If your not familier with that technique, its pretty simple and very effective. Start off by basically flooding the pad with product, then aggressivly rub it into the pad with your fingers. After that, 1 or 2 drops of product is all you'll need each time you load the pad. It makes a big differance in how evenly the pad is spreading the product. There are videos on youtube showing exacally how to do it and I would post a link but my PC is acting stupid and wont load videos tonight.
Click to expand...

mrclean81 said:
I go on to sealant after SSR1. By the time you finish with SSR1, the paint should be about as good as its going to get. I never try to do any cutting or correction with it. I use it just as a final pass to brighten up what Ive corrected with compound and medium polish with more aggressive pads.

EDIT - If your planning to apply a glaze like Black Hole, you would probably want to apply that after SSR1
Click to expand...

Mr. Clean you have hit the nail on the head :yourrock Take this advice and you should be fine :buddies
 
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