What polish after wet sanding?

J

Jrichards4

New member
Me and my dad just painted a set of tin for an HD Fatboy. Its black and the owner wanted it super slick so we wetsanded it and I was wondering what polish would be best to make it look like a mirror. I have PB 2.5 and 1 or I was think Meguiars #2-3 then 7 what do you think would yield better results? It will be with a PC I might add. Thanks :bigups
 
Depends on what paper you used. If you used 2.5-3K grit you have a lot of options as it'll leave a pretty decent finish. If you use the Meg's #2, be sure to use the new formulation, not the older rotary-only stuff. I'd follow that with their #80 before using a nonabrasive glaze like #3/#7. Get it as good as you can with the abrasive stuff (#2 and #80) before applying the #3/#7.



I use 3M and 1Z stuff after the 3K (or even 2.5K) grit- PI-III RC, then PI-III MG, then 1z Pro MP. Dunno just how that would translate into products from other makers though. Th (n32) #2/#80 should work OK though.
 
My recomendation probably will not be the popular vote but I have had great success with Ardex 1000 PLUS, 1500 PLUS, and 2500 Plus. It has been formulated specifically for removing wet sanding on brand new paint

www.ardexlabs.com
 
We used 2K and it feels smooth. So you think #2 then #80 then move to the #3 and 7. So I shouldnt mess with the Poorboys thats more for removing fine swirls?

We have a rotary to but i was gonna try the PC and see how that worked on the new paint.
 
Try it in a small test area first and be sure you're getting the results you want before proceeding to the rest of the finish.



I would be surprised if were able to successfully remove #2000 sanding scratch with Meg's #2, especially if you didn't use meg's Uni-Grit sandpaper.



When touching the surface you might be able to feel a difference in the volume of sanding scratch but there's no way you'll be able to feel the depth, which is what affects your buffing process most.





PC.
 
Bad03xtreme said:
..So I shouldnt mess with the Poorboys thats more for removing fine swirls?

We have a rotary to but i was gonna try the PC and see how that worked on the new paint.
Click to expand...





I dunno, never used the SSR line :nixweiss



atticdog said:
megs diamond cut removes 2000 sanding very easy then goto #3 then wax
Click to expand...



Diamond cut with nothing milder for a follow-up? I wouldn't have expected it to break down enough for a ready-to-wax (well, "ready-to-glaze with #3") finish.
 
accumulator we did it the other day at a rotary class 2000 grit then diamond cut then #3 then 476 collinite on a black s10 hood and it looked amazing

oh i just noticed he is useing a pc
 
We polished it tonight. We used #2 with a Rotary air buffer then followed that with #3 with the rotary then did everything with SSR 2.5 with the PC and a finishing Pad and it looked so deep. I then went over everything with #7 by hand and it added a little depth but it looks so smooth and wet. I'll get pictures this weekend when he puts it together and brings it back by. Thanks for the advice it helped ;)
 
atticdog said:
accumulator we did it the other day at a rotary class ..

oh i just noticed he is useing a pc
Click to expand...



OK, gotcha, now we're on the sam page. Rotaries break products like that down really well. At least if you know what you're doing ;)



Bad03xtreme- glad it worked out for you. Next time you do something like this I wouldn't bother using the #3 before the SSR 2.5, I don't see the point in using a nonabrasive product like #3 before an abrasive one like the SSR. But hey, at long as it turns out nice that's what counts!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top