what next?

T

toy4r

New member
I just did my wifes 2000 black Honda Accord with pc and Megs 7(white pad) and Megs 26(Gray finish pad). Looks really good. One problem though. Its starting to show some oxidation. So I have 2 questions:



1. What is the least abrasive product to remove oxidation and what pads should i use from CMA? I have never used anything more 7 and 26. And would it be applied in the same manner as the products mentioned? Im just a little nervous if I need to use abrasive since I never have. I know this has been discussed here but I did search and could not find specific answer.



2. I am no science person but if oxidation is present would it affect the bonding of any waxes and/or polishes?



Think that came out to be more than one question. Sorry.

Thanks for reading
 
In the Meguiar's line the next best product is #9 Swirl Mark Remover. Its available at most auto parts stores like NAPA or Pep Boys. Apply it with the yellow cutting pad.



A lot of us like Meguiar's DACP or SFP but they're only available at body shop supply stores and you have to buy a monster jug of it.



An abrasive applied correctly will not hurt your paint. #7 is far too mild; its like make-up for car paint. You can wait for the #26 to wear off or do a Dawn wash to remove most of it.



As long as you are sticking to these products there are no issues with bonding. That's only a problem when you are planning to use polymer sealants like Zaino or Klasse.



And there are hundreds, maybe thousands of posts about oxidation and polish.
 
Depending on the type and degree of oxidation, you might want to try a few different products. Honestly, I'm quite surprised that a 2000 Honda would be oxidized already, but stranger things can happen. :)





Listed from most agressive to least agressive

================================



Meguiar's #2 Fine Cut Cleaner with Wool pad

3M Finesse It-II with Wool pad

Meguiar's DACP with Wool pad



Meguiar's #2 Fine Cut Cleaner with Yellow pad

3M Finesse It-II with Yellow pad

Meguiar's DACP with Yellow pad



Meguiar's #2 FCC with Orange pad

3M Finesse It-II with Orange pad

Meguiar's DACP with Orange pad



3M SMR with Yellow pad

Meguiar's #9 v2.0 with Yellow pad



3M SMR with White pad

Meguiar's #9 v2.0 with White pad



3M SMR with Orange pad

Meguiar's #9 v2.0 with Orange pad



==================================



If it were my car, I'd start with the SMR/orange and if that didn't cut it, I'd try the DACP/yellow. If that didn't cut it, I'd try FI-II/wool...



Always want to use the least agressive products as possible as to conserve as much clear/paint as possible. Remember, after you go "rough" you have to work your way backwards....



In other words, if I started with DACP/wool, I'd then do SMR/yellow and then Meguiar's Swirl Free Polish or #7 or P21S GEPC w/white pad.
 
I just bought mine at an automotive paint supply store. Fine source of many professional line products like Meguiars and 3M. It's also available in that size on the net at meguiars.com under products | professional | and surface preparation.



I've worked with many oxidized cars over the years, and it always took longer than a couple of years to be serious. You may be seeing haze, which swirl removers take out beautifully.
 
You are right Mrdetailer....It does appear to be a haze like surface. I just assumed it was oxidation. If it is a haze is this caused from improper washing or to much shampoo? What is the easiest way to tell if it is one or the other?



Thanks
 
toy4r said:
You are right Mrdetailer....It does appear to be a haze like surface. I just assumed it was oxidation. If it is a haze is this caused from improper washing or to much shampoo? What is the easiest way to tell if it is one or the other?



Thanks
Click to expand...
Haze is from improper washing (or drying) techniques scratching the surface. I'd suggest looking at the finish in strong light or the sun's reflection to see if it's microscopic hazing or really light oxidation (if the car's had zero care maybe?). If it turns out to be light oxidation though, I've been using a paint cleaner (pre-wax cleaner) to get some of that off a van recently. If that works by hand, it should be even easier by PC.
 
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