What do you put on FRESH Paint

M

mobiledynamics

New member
I threw out all my glazes a looong time ago.
Sold all the fancy nuba and only have 3-4 cans of Souveran on deck.

What would you use for fresh paint.
This is for a one time use sorta deal, meaning I don`t expect to LSP fresh paint beyond this for at least XYZ months.

I dunno. Should I order me up some OCW ?

:wall:wall:wall:wall
Just in Dec/Jan, I found a old bottle of RMG that I trashed.
LOL. Maybe I should stop being the simplifier and be the hoarder..
 
how fresh and what kind of paint? who painted it and how was it painted .. ie booth .. heat?
 
mobiledynamics said:
not yet painted...but talking bodyshop painted, lutro booths, etc
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I would talk to the body shop and discuss what options you have in types paint and their curing times with his equipment

then decide what and if you wan to put anything on it .. is it a DD or garage queen?
 
Bodyshop guy is one sweet smooth talker.....works great, etc. He`s just a fast talker.
I don`t think I`ll get a real official answer. Just a general X days as a wild guess....

I`ve always worked off 60 days as a general rule. DD
But we`re talking products that are just fresh paint safe.
Sorta like 3D polish is fresh paint polish safe...
Have you seen unknown variables with glazes, or nuba put onto fresh paint...
 
mobiledynamics said:
Bodyshop guy is one sweet smooth talker.....works great, etc. He`s just a fast talker.
I don`t think I`ll get a real official answer. Just a general X days as a wild guess....

I`ve always worked off 60 days as a general rule. DD
But we`re talking products that are just fresh paint safe.
Sorta like 3D polish is fresh paint polish safe...
Have you seen unknown variables with glazes, or nuba put onto fresh paint...
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lol .. most shop owners are .. imagine dealing with insurance companies every day ..

any decent polish without fillers , wax or silicone should be fine .. you can put a glaze on if you wish, but it won`t give you much protection ...

I`ve always gone with a non-abrasive polish and keep it as clean as possible while the paint is curing .. if you feel comfortable with 60 days .. then do 60 .. most good water-based paints really don`t need the extended time.. but better safe than sorry :)
 
I just used M305 a few months ago on some resprayed panels. Worked reasonably well. Wish I`d known OCW was safe to use. Still have a half gallon of it left!
 
Heh heh, I often have to educate bodyshop guys regarding the manufacturer`s info on the products they use...don`t get me wrong- I like/respect the guys I patronize, but I get the feeling that reading/incorporating the latest info isn`t always a top priority. OK, lets me feel all big-brain and all`s well that ends well...but I bet some places [do ill-advised stuff] out of ignorance before the customer ever sees the work. Anyhow...

I`d use OCW, which is tested/approved/recommended for use on "post-production paintwork" by Ford, whose testing was quite. Works fine IME, zero diffs in hardness (when the curing is finally done) compared to using a known-safe glaze. No, not saying the meguiar`s won`t work just as well, but AFAIK it`s never been tested by an independent authority.
 
Accumulator said:
I`d use OCW, which is tested/approved/recommended for use on "post-production paintwork" by Ford, whose testing was quite. Works fine IME, zero diffs in hardness (when the curing is final.
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Thanks for the info, I did not know this about OCW. I`ve done a little paint work in the garage and always have OCW around. I use Southern Polyurethanes` clear and their recommendation is 90 days before wax. It`s really hard to wait that long.


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Accumulator said:
Heh heh, I often have to educate bodyshop guys regarding the manufacturer`s info on the products they use...don`t get me wrong- I like/respect the guys I patronize, but I get the feeling that reading/incorporating the latest info isn`t always a top priority. OK, lets me feel all big-brain and all`s well that ends well...but I bet some places [do ill-advised stuff] out of ignorance before the customer ever sees the work. Anyhow...

I`d use OCW, which is tested/approved/recommended for use on "post-production paintwork" by Ford, whose testing was quite. Works fine IME, zero diffs in hardness (when the curing is finally done) compared to using a known-safe glaze. No, not saying the meguiar`s won`t work just as well, but AFAIK it`s never been tested by an independent authority.
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This independent tested M305 lol. Used it for 3 months after a repaint. Repaint done back in October 2016 and no issues till this day. It worked surprisingly well. I switched over to OCW as it was easier to apply.
 
The Guz said:
This independent tested M305 lol. Used it for 3 months after a repaint. Repaint done back in October 2016 and no issues till this day. It worked surprisingly well. I switched over to OCW as it was easier to apply.
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Heh heh, appreciated that "this independent.." :D

Doesn`t surprise me that the M305 worked fine, not like Meguiar`s is gonna get that wrong (and for decades my fave for repaints was their M05 New Car Glaze).

Guess it doesn`t surprise me that the OCW is easier, just given the nature of the stuff. I always thought M05 was the easiest product ever, but ya just can`t beat W-O-W-O with OCW.

itb76 said:
I use Southern Polyurethanes` clear and their recommendation is 90 days before wax. It`s really hard to wait that long.
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Yeah, agree! And I`ve had lots of paints continue to harden for a lot longer than that. I always figure that as long as the paint is changing I shouldn`t risk affecting [whatever those changes are].
 
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