IntrstlarOvrdrv
New member
I am so lost right now, I am ovewhelmed by everyhting I have read. So what are the very basics? What products are must haves, and what techniques are best?
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IntrstlarOvrdrv said:I am so lost right now, I am ovewhelmed by everyhting I have read. So what are the very basics? What products are must haves, and what techniques are best?
Hard supplies
Wet/Dry vac-1.5hp and up is sufficient
Assortment of vacuum nozzles-including a thin crevice tool
Bucket
Spray nozzle
Foam or Terry Cloth covered wash pads
Wheel brush, body & bumper brush, thin brush for tight areas, interior brush (soft bristles)
Terry cloth towels (bath towels)
Microfiber towels
Foam hand wax applicators
California exterior and interior car dusters
Q-tips (for cleaning vents)
Waxes
Waxes are primarily to seal and protect the paint. They will add some shine, but not as much as a polish will. I recommend the following based on actual use:
Meguairs High Tech Yellow wax #26, Meguiars Polymer Sealant #20, 3Ms Perfect it Show Car Wax (paste only), Mother's Carnuba Wax, Wax Shop's Super Glaze (desspite the name, it is a wax)., S100 Paste Wax, Pinnacle's Souveran or Paste Glaz and Clearkote's Carnuba Moose Wax. Zymol Cleaner Wax is a good wax, but it is a pain to use since it tends to strak and leaves blue residue in the cracks and emblems. The other waxes listed won't.
Synthetic Waxes
Klasse and Zainos are the best known, but I got a bottle of Car Polish's Final Polish which is a polymer wax with a very light polish in it. Leaves the paint super slick and protected for 6 months. You can top it with a good carnuba for an even deeper shine. I've also had good results with Winner's Choice Polymer Finishing Creme (which is non abrasive).
Polishes and Glazes
Polishes and glazes are used to add oils to the paint for more shine and smooth the surface for more reflection. I use Meguiars Pro Body Shop line, but if there is not a Meguairs distributer in your area, you will have to order them from http://www.meguiars.com/ I have used and recommend the following:
Meguairs Hand Polish (Pro Body Shop) and Meguairs Show Car Glaze or Machine Glaze (Mirror Glaze line), Wax Shops's Safe Cut and 3Ms Imperial Hand Glaze. None of these will dry white or haze the rubber or plastic. All will add shine and clarity to the paint surface, but will not remove serious paint defects-that is not their purpose.
Cleaners/Compounds and Swirl Removers
Cleaners and compounds are made to remove serious paint defects, like oxidation, scratches, etc, and swirl removers are used to smooth the surface after using a cleaner/compound and to remove any swirl or scratch marks made by the cleaner/compounds. Always start with the lightest cleaner or compound, and use a stronger one only when necessary. Try any of the following:
Meguairs Dual Action cleaner/polish and Diamond Cut cleaner (Pro Body Shop), Meguiars Fine, Medium or Heavy Cut cleaners (Mirror Glaze line), or any of 3Ms or Wax Shops cleaners and compounds.
For swirl removers, there is Meguairs Swirl Free Polish (PBS) and Swirl Remover (MGL) or 3Ms swirl remover.
Spray Detailers
These are used to clean your car when it is only dusty (after dusting with your car duster), or after washing or waxing to make sure no residue is left on the paint. Meguiars Final Inspection, Quick Detailer, Clearkote's Quikshine, Winner's Choice Express Detail or Wax Shops Slick Stuff all work very well.
Glass Cleaners
Only one recommendation: Eagle's 20/20 Glass cleaner. Works great, is cheap, and repels water almost as well as Rain X.
Interior Cleaners
Woolite-yes, the same Woolite used to gently wash sweaters and stuff like that. Mix it in a spray bottle at 6 parts water and 1 part Woolite. Spray liberally on the surface, use a small plastic brush, scrub the surface and dry with a cloth towel. It works great on all fabrics, carpets, vinyl and yes, leather-in fact, it will leave the leather very soft after using.
Vinyl, Rubber and Leather dressings
Vinyl and Rubber can use the same products; Meguairs Rubber and Vinyl cleaner and conditioner, Meguairs W-Dressing (PBS), Armor All-I would discourage using the real shiny and greasy stuff on the interior-it attracts dust and makes the sun reflect the dash into the windshield while driving towards the sun.
For leather, use a dedicated leather conditioner, like Meguairs Gold Class for Leather, Tanners Preserves, Lexol or Eagles leather conditioner.
Clay Bars
Detailing clay is used to remove imbedded dirt, grime, overspray, etc from the paint without the use of abrasives. If after washing and waxing, you run your hand over the paint and it has a gritty feel, you need to use a clay bar. Meguiars, Mothers and Clay Magic all make good systems, and they come with everything you need except a towel to dry the paint after claying. Just follow the package directions and wax after finishing. Your paint will be super slick and smooth like glass.
Miscellaneous
When using Meguiars products, only use the Mirror Glaze or Pro Body Shop lines, not the burgandy bottle stuff like the deep crystal system or Cleaner wax. They are for the casual user, not someone who wants the ultimate in shine.
You do not have to glob on a bunch of wax or polish-a blob the size of a quarter should be enough to cover your entire hood-a 16 oz bottle of wax is enough to wax your car at least 30 times-use just enough to lightly cover the surface of the paint.
When using a polish or glaze, rub into the paint until it looks almost clear.
Do not waste your money on any wax that claims to have Teflon® in it. Unless you are able to apply the wax at 600+ degrees, the telfon is not a viable ingredient-and this is straight from Dupont.
jaobrien6 said:I recently got into detailing more seriously, and I'll give you my approach so far:
1. Learn to wash properly. This includes getting a decent car wash soap (such as Meg's Gold Class which you can probably get locally very easily), using good quality wash mitt (i went with sheepskin, but others here use MF or chenille), and use the 2 bucket method.
2. Start simple. Your paint may be seriously neglected and may need claying and serious polishing with a machine, but if you try and tackle a 7 step process right off the bat, you will get frustrated and won't get the results you expect.
3. Pick a last step product for your final finish. There are many, many good choices you can go with. I would decide whether you want to go carnuba or synthetic and just pick one to try out. take it home a practice your technique. Make sure you're using good quality towels for buffing.
4. Assuming your paint needs it, pick a mild polish that you want to start using either by hand or by PC (depending on the amount of $ you want to spend). Begin practicing that. You won't get all the swirls out right away, or on your first try.
5. Continue adding steps and practicing until you've reached the level that you see in many of the pictures here. You will not get these results on an older car on your first try; it takes practice and technique.
I have two cars i've been practicing on: a brand new 2004 (well, 5 months old now) that still has no swirl marks because I've been taking car of it properly from the start, and a 6 year old car that was NOT cared for properly. That car is still far from where i want it to be, but it's getting better with each new step i add to the process.
My $.02
John
IntrstlarOvrdrv said:So what are the very basics?
NozeBleedSpeed said:The very "basics" of detailing is simply thorough cleaning. Its not highly technical but can be a lot of work. It includes a detailed cleaning that most people dont think about. Claying,washing and cleaning the exterior. Cleaning and removing buildup from around trim pieces, windows ,plates,etc. Cleaning between panels and inside of door,tailgate and trunk jambs. Cleaning the engine bay and underside of the hood,wheels,wheel wells,chrome,etc.
Cleaning the interior vinyl,carpets,upholstery,leather,headliners,seatbelts,between interior pieces, buildup around windshields,seat mounts,inside door pockets and door panels,consoles,behind door handles,door gaskets and latches,etc. Sometimes it requires removal of knobs or other pieces. Man,thats a lot of cleaning.
IntrstlarOvrdrv said:I am so lost right now, I am ovewhelmed by everyhting I have read. So what are the very basics? What products are must haves, and what techniques are best?
JHowell1976 said:IMO the first step is to figure out what it is you expect to see as the end result of your labor. And then ask yourself if you are willing to make the investment of money and time.
You need a willingness to put out until you feel the job has been done right. Without that everything else is irrelevant.