What are the very basics of detaliling a car?

IntrstlarOvrdrv

New member
I am so lost right now, I am ovewhelmed by everyhting I have read. So what are the very basics? What products are must haves, and what techniques are best?
 
This will be vague but search around and gather info, lots of it here. The best tip I can give, THINK before you do something. If your not sure, ASK. Common sense and detailing go hand in hand. If you think something might scratch the paint, chances are...it will.
 
IntrstlarOvrdrv said:
I am so lost right now, I am ovewhelmed by everyhting I have read. So what are the very basics? What products are must haves, and what techniques are best?



Firstly :welcome



I would say don't expect to learn everything about detailing overnight. Try to learn about each stage seperately. Use the search button frequently, as many times what you need to know has already been posted. Then if stuck shout helpppppppp! :)



I still read threads I've read several times to make sure I get as much info as I can about a product/method.



A good basic place to start is to download the autopia e-book. This lays out each step in clear detail and reccomends some very good products.



I don't think anybody here will say 'you MUST use ??????? product' to do a certain job. It is up to each individual which way to go. Search about each product and find out if it's easy to use or a PITA. Find out what people say about the 'finished' effect of a certain product and if you want the same effect then use the same products.



There is lots of info here, it is up to each person how they use it. Just take your time and enjoy yourself :)
 
BASICS

Car Wash Soap

a bucket

good sheepskin or other type wash mit

cleaner wax

armorall or vinyl protectant

an all purpose cleaner (like simple green)

1-2 good 100% cotton towel.



I would say this is the absolute basics, and it is what 90% of car owners get away with.
 
I recently got into detailing more seriously, and I'll give you my approach so far:



1. Learn to wash properly. This includes getting a decent car wash soap (such as Meg's Gold Class which you can probably get locally very easily), using good quality wash mitt (i went with sheepskin, but others here use MF or chenille), and use the 2 bucket method.



2. Start simple. Your paint may be seriously neglected and may need claying and serious polishing with a machine, but if you try and tackle a 7 step process right off the bat, you will get frustrated and won't get the results you expect.



3. Pick a last step product for your final finish. There are many, many good choices you can go with. I would decide whether you want to go carnuba or synthetic and just pick one to try out. take it home a practice your technique. Make sure you're using good quality towels for buffing.



4. Assuming your paint needs it, pick a mild polish that you want to start using either by hand or by PC (depending on the amount of $ you want to spend). Begin practicing that. You won't get all the swirls out right away, or on your first try.



5. Continue adding steps and practicing until you've reached the level that you see in many of the pictures here. You will not get these results on an older car on your first try; it takes practice and technique.



I have two cars i've been practicing on: a brand new 2004 (well, 5 months old now) that still has no swirl marks because I've been taking car of it properly from the start, and a 6 year old car that was NOT cared for properly. That car is still far from where i want it to be, but it's getting better with each new step i add to the process.



My $.02



John
 
Here is a quote from the great Scottwax.. This is not my work, so please, give credit where it is deserved:



Hard supplies



Wet/Dry vac-1.5hp and up is sufficient

Assortment of vacuum nozzles-including a thin crevice tool

Bucket

Spray nozzle

Foam or Terry Cloth covered wash pads

Wheel brush, body & bumper brush, thin brush for tight areas, interior brush (soft bristles)

Terry cloth towels (bath towels)

Microfiber towels

Foam hand wax applicators

California exterior and interior car dusters

Q-tips (for cleaning vents)



Waxes



Waxes are primarily to seal and protect the paint. They will add some shine, but not as much as a polish will. I recommend the following based on actual use:

Meguairs High Tech Yellow wax #26, Meguiars Polymer Sealant #20, 3Ms Perfect it Show Car Wax (paste only), Mother's Carnuba Wax, Wax Shop's Super Glaze (desspite the name, it is a wax)., S100 Paste Wax, Pinnacle's Souveran or Paste Glaz and Clearkote's Carnuba Moose Wax. Zymol Cleaner Wax is a good wax, but it is a pain to use since it tends to strak and leaves blue residue in the cracks and emblems. The other waxes listed won't.



Synthetic Waxes



Klasse and Zainos are the best known, but I got a bottle of Car Polish's Final Polish which is a polymer wax with a very light polish in it. Leaves the paint super slick and protected for 6 months. You can top it with a good carnuba for an even deeper shine. I've also had good results with Winner's Choice Polymer Finishing Creme (which is non abrasive).



Polishes and Glazes



Polishes and glazes are used to add oils to the paint for more shine and smooth the surface for more reflection. I use Meguiars Pro Body Shop line, but if there is not a Meguairs distributer in your area, you will have to order them from http://www.meguiars.com/ I have used and recommend the following:

Meguairs Hand Polish (Pro Body Shop) and Meguairs Show Car Glaze or Machine Glaze (Mirror Glaze line), Wax Shops's Safe Cut and 3Ms Imperial Hand Glaze. None of these will dry white or haze the rubber or plastic. All will add shine and clarity to the paint surface, but will not remove serious paint defects-that is not their purpose.



Cleaners/Compounds and Swirl Removers



Cleaners and compounds are made to remove serious paint defects, like oxidation, scratches, etc, and swirl removers are used to smooth the surface after using a cleaner/compound and to remove any swirl or scratch marks made by the cleaner/compounds. Always start with the lightest cleaner or compound, and use a stronger one only when necessary. Try any of the following:

Meguairs Dual Action cleaner/polish and Diamond Cut cleaner (Pro Body Shop), Meguiars Fine, Medium or Heavy Cut cleaners (Mirror Glaze line), or any of 3Ms or Wax Shops cleaners and compounds.



For swirl removers, there is Meguairs Swirl Free Polish (PBS) and Swirl Remover (MGL) or 3Ms swirl remover.



Spray Detailers



These are used to clean your car when it is only dusty (after dusting with your car duster), or after washing or waxing to make sure no residue is left on the paint. Meguiars Final Inspection, Quick Detailer, Clearkote's Quikshine, Winner's Choice Express Detail or Wax Shops Slick Stuff all work very well.



Glass Cleaners



Only one recommendation: Eagle's 20/20 Glass cleaner. Works great, is cheap, and repels water almost as well as Rain X.



Interior Cleaners



Woolite-yes, the same Woolite used to gently wash sweaters and stuff like that. Mix it in a spray bottle at 6 parts water and 1 part Woolite. Spray liberally on the surface, use a small plastic brush, scrub the surface and dry with a cloth towel. It works great on all fabrics, carpets, vinyl and yes, leather-in fact, it will leave the leather very soft after using.



Vinyl, Rubber and Leather dressings



Vinyl and Rubber can use the same products; Meguairs Rubber and Vinyl cleaner and conditioner, Meguairs W-Dressing (PBS), Armor All-I would discourage using the real shiny and greasy stuff on the interior-it attracts dust and makes the sun reflect the dash into the windshield while driving towards the sun.



For leather, use a dedicated leather conditioner, like Meguairs Gold Class for Leather, Tanners Preserves, Lexol or Eagles leather conditioner.



Clay Bars



Detailing clay is used to remove imbedded dirt, grime, overspray, etc from the paint without the use of abrasives. If after washing and waxing, you run your hand over the paint and it has a gritty feel, you need to use a clay bar. Meguiars, Mothers and Clay Magic all make good systems, and they come with everything you need except a towel to dry the paint after claying. Just follow the package directions and wax after finishing. Your paint will be super slick and smooth like glass.





Miscellaneous



When using Meguiars products, only use the Mirror Glaze or Pro Body Shop lines, not the burgandy bottle stuff like the deep crystal system or Cleaner wax. They are for the casual user, not someone who wants the ultimate in shine.



You do not have to glob on a bunch of wax or polish-a blob the size of a quarter should be enough to cover your entire hood-a 16 oz bottle of wax is enough to wax your car at least 30 times-use just enough to lightly cover the surface of the paint.



When using a polish or glaze, rub into the paint until it looks almost clear.



Do not waste your money on any wax that claims to have Teflon® in it. Unless you are able to apply the wax at 600+ degrees, the telfon is not a viable ingredient-and this is straight from Dupont.
 
If you click on the "Learn!" pic icon at the top of the page you will find numerous articles on various subjects, including a Detailing 101 article that will help you a lot.



There are more articles here: http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html



We also have a Hall Of Fame: http://www.autopia.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=76



Think of this forum as the Library Of Congress for car detailing. Every question you could possibly ask has likely been answered in some form or another. Don't expect people to teach you how to detail - the info is right here for you to teach yourself. If you have a specific question, feel free to ask but also consider using the search function for answers.



:welcome to Autopia
 
jaobrien6 said:
I recently got into detailing more seriously, and I'll give you my approach so far:



1. Learn to wash properly. This includes getting a decent car wash soap (such as Meg's Gold Class which you can probably get locally very easily), using good quality wash mitt (i went with sheepskin, but others here use MF or chenille), and use the 2 bucket method.



2. Start simple. Your paint may be seriously neglected and may need claying and serious polishing with a machine, but if you try and tackle a 7 step process right off the bat, you will get frustrated and won't get the results you expect.



3. Pick a last step product for your final finish. There are many, many good choices you can go with. I would decide whether you want to go carnuba or synthetic and just pick one to try out. take it home a practice your technique. Make sure you're using good quality towels for buffing.



4. Assuming your paint needs it, pick a mild polish that you want to start using either by hand or by PC (depending on the amount of $ you want to spend). Begin practicing that. You won't get all the swirls out right away, or on your first try.



5. Continue adding steps and practicing until you've reached the level that you see in many of the pictures here. You will not get these results on an older car on your first try; it takes practice and technique.



I have two cars i've been practicing on: a brand new 2004 (well, 5 months old now) that still has no swirl marks because I've been taking car of it properly from the start, and a 6 year old car that was NOT cared for properly. That car is still far from where i want it to be, but it's getting better with each new step i add to the process.



My $.02



John





That's about right.:xyxthumbs



Use the search function here and gather as much information you can about proper detailing. It is definitely going to take time to perfect proper auto care. My advice would be not to get frustrated with the tons of different techniques, products, tricks, etc. that are here and elsewhere, and just make sure you learn auto care protection first and then experiment with the many techniques, products, etc. to get the perfect finish for the exterior and/or interior.



Good Luck!:xyxthumbs
 
IntrstlarOvrdrv said:
So what are the very basics?

The very "basics" of detailing is simply thorough cleaning. Its not highly technical but can be a lot of work. It includes a detailed cleaning that most people dont think about. Claying,washing and cleaning the exterior. Cleaning and removing buildup from around trim pieces, windows ,plates,etc. Cleaning between panels and inside of door,tailgate and trunk jambs. Cleaning the engine bay and underside of the hood,wheels,wheel wells,chrome,etc.

Cleaning the interior vinyl,carpets,upholstery,leather,headliners,seatbelts,between interior pieces, buildup around windshields,seat mounts,inside door pockets and door panels,consoles,behind door handles,door gaskets and latches,etc. Sometimes it requires removal of knobs or other pieces. Man,thats a lot of cleaning.

You will need to try different products to see which you like to use.Reading what other guys here recommend will be a big help. Your best friends are lots and lots of different brushes,MF and an assortment of cleaners for different jobs.



Above the basics is appearance and protection. That includes polishing,waxing,dressing and so on. It is part of detailing but the "basics" is still thorough cleaning and the part where most guys take a short cut so they can smear that shiny wax on and call it a day.
 
The most basic fundemental in detailing (for me) is to take your time. Whether you are cleaning, claying, polishing, waxing, or sealing, don't rush your work. \



Work on one panel at a time. Focus on only that panel. Work all angles of that panel, including those that you can't see if you are standing up or kneeling (bottom side of mirrors, bottom of quarter panels, bottom of doors, door jambs, inner lip of fender, fender wells, bumper bottoms, etc).



Only when you have completely worked the panel, should you move on to the next panel. If, after working over a panel, you see something that you missed, do the entire panel over again.



Speaking from personal experience, the biggest disappointments I've had with my work occurred when I was too anxious to see the finished product, and I shortcutted in order to get to the finished product more quickly.



Take your time, work methodically, and deliberately. The end of the process will come naturally, and if you apply the information that you learn on this board, your results will be simply amazing.
 
NozeBleedSpeed said:
The very "basics" of detailing is simply thorough cleaning. Its not highly technical but can be a lot of work. It includes a detailed cleaning that most people dont think about. Claying,washing and cleaning the exterior. Cleaning and removing buildup from around trim pieces, windows ,plates,etc. Cleaning between panels and inside of door,tailgate and trunk jambs. Cleaning the engine bay and underside of the hood,wheels,wheel wells,chrome,etc.

Cleaning the interior vinyl,carpets,upholstery,leather,headliners,seatbelts,between interior pieces, buildup around windshields,seat mounts,inside door pockets and door panels,consoles,behind door handles,door gaskets and latches,etc. Sometimes it requires removal of knobs or other pieces. Man,thats a lot of cleaning.


:up Yep! And thats why we call it 'detailing'
 
:xyxthumbs

Welcome to Autopia



As you will see it’s a ‘very user friendly’ place, the people on this forum are very knowledgeable, and one thing that seems to stand out here compared to other special interest forums is a spirit of "open mindedness�.



I’ve put this together to help you ‘find your way around’, hope this helps.



After reading the House Rules (upper left of the home page) that will tell you a bit about our operating procedures. Suggest you start at David’s guide (Learn icon – Car Care Topics) and/or (Forum – University) you could also research FAQ (go to Interact-Features-FAQ) or Interact (Search) and then ask your questions on (Forums - University) there are also tips on products under Shop (How-To) plus be sure to check on the discounts available to forum members. And there’s the Reviews section, where we've posted evaluations of products. The Autopia “Guide to detailing eBook� covers most facets of detailing; every car-detailing enthusiast should own this book.



If the Autopia forum solves just one of your detailing problems it’s worth the price of admission



The ultimate shine: 90% Preparation, 4% Product and the balance, in the ‘guy’ of the beholder.





BTW when you've read all this and the answers to your first post there'll be a test! LOL





Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/



justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*
 
IntrstlarOvrdrv said:
I am so lost right now, I am ovewhelmed by everyhting I have read. So what are the very basics? What products are must haves, and what techniques are best?



The very basics are:

1- WASH CAR

2- WASH TIRES AND WHEELS

3- POLISH AND WAX CAR

4- CLEAN AND POLISH CHROME

5- REMOVE ROAD TAR

6- APPLY EXTERIOR PROTECTANTS

7- CLEAN AND WAX DOOR JAMBS

8- CLEAN & PROTECT UPHOLSTERY

9- CLEAN AND VACUUM CARPETS & TRUNK

10- CLEAN WINDOWS & MIRRORS



The 'must have' products are:

1- CAR WASH SOAP

2- TIRE & WHEEL CLEANER

3- UPHOLSTERY CLEANER & CONDITIONER

4- CARPET CLEANER

5- GLASS CLEANER

6- CLEAN TOWELS

7- CLEANER POLISH

8- CLEANER WAX

9- CARNUBA WAX

10- POLYMER WAX



The best techniques are:

UNDERSTANDING EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT HOW TO SAFELY DETAIL AN AUTOMOBILE.



I hope this helps...
 
I think the first step is to determine what kind of shape your paint is in. Is your car new or less than a year old or is it older and "dull" looking? What color is your paint? Once you [and we] know these two things it is easier to determine what your basic needs will be. Also, a question you have to ask yourself is what kind of budget are you going to have to work with on your new hobby. You may find that you want to invest in a Porter Cable polisher down the road. I guess what I'm trying to say is you should lay down a game plan and start from there. As mentioned before the "LEARN" link at the top of the page is very useful and is organized into sub-catergories for specific jobs, such as cleaning wheels.



All the above tips are wonderful and I just want to add a few tips. First stock up on tire sponges, foam and terry applicators, WalMart is a good place to get basic tools. I use foam applicators quite often, not only are they the best for applying wax, but also for leather conditioners and vinyl/rubber protectants. Have a good assortment of brushes. You'll need different ones for cleaning your tires, wheels, rocker panels, leather and vinyl, vents, and little crevices here and there. And finally, keep yourself organized! Have a dedicated area for all your detailing and cleaning supplies with bins and storage for everything.



If you aren't sure about what products will work for you, make a point to contact the manufacturers and see if you can obtain samples of products you think you want to try. It is worth a try.



Good luck and enjoy browsing this site. Don't let it overwhelm you, just decide how far you want to take it and enjoy. You don't have to have a complicated routine and every product under the sun to have a nice clean car.
 
IMO the first step is to figure out what it is you expect to see as the end result of your labor. And then ask yourself if you are willing to make the investment of money and time. Being willing to make the time to do this is far more important than anything. You can go out and buy some Pinnacle Souveran but if you are unwilling to put forth the effort to maximize it, your final result will look no different then had you used a 3$ bottle of Turtle Wax. You need a willingness to put out until you feel the job has been done right. Without that everything else is irrelevant.
 
JHowell1976 said:
IMO the first step is to figure out what it is you expect to see as the end result of your labor. And then ask yourself if you are willing to make the investment of money and time.



You need a willingness to put out until you feel the job has been done right. Without that everything else is irrelevant.



VERY GOOD ADVICE!!!
 
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