Wetsanding Porsche Boxster Fender

A

Anthony O.

New member
Ron and I did an Xpel application on a BMW and afterwards the client asked if we could also remove a few dings from his other cars plus do anything with a scratch on his Porsche Boxster, right over the passenger rear fender.



While Ron worked on the dings I wetsanded the fender, first with 4000k but it didn't do much, Ron then suggested 2000k which knocked down all the gloss.



Sanding marks were removed with Hyper Compound and a wool pad. Then an orange pad and Optimum Polish, green pad and OCP down to a white finishing pad and OCP.



I was seeking to make it as perfect as possible....here are the results...



After sanding...







wetsandbxstr9bg.jpg










Then after the polishing steps......







bxstrpolish4vb.jpg








aftrwetsand4wg.jpg








If you embark on wetsanding remember to use plenty of soap and water and to check your work often...also remember that after wetsanding you'll also be doing some polishing, which will also remove your paint so don't go too thin!! :buffing:



Anthony
 
Scottwax said:
Can't see the scratch anymore, nice job. :) Rotary for the buffing, right?
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Yep, rotary work for this one. I would of been able to use my Cyclo if the 4k paper had leveled it enough but that was not the case. 2k is just a bit too much for the Cyclo to handle.



Thanks for the compliments guys :)



Anthony
 
Anthony Orosco said:
Yep, rotary work for this one. I would of been able to use my Cyclo if the 4k paper had leveled it enough but that was not the case. 2k is just a bit too much for the Cyclo to handle.



Thanks for the compliments guys :)



Anthony
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If the 4k paper *would* have leveled it enough, and you would have used the Cyclo to bring the shine back, what pad/polish combo would you have used? I'm just curious, and still trying to learn the limits of the Cyclo.
 
JDookie said:
If the 4k paper *would* have leveled it enough, and you would have used the Cyclo to bring the shine back, what pad/polish combo would you have used? I'm just curious, and still trying to learn the limits of the Cyclo.
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Great questions JD,



I would of went with the orange pads and the Opt Compound first then went with orange and OCP then white with OCP.



If the Opt Compound would not work then I would of tried perhaps the orange with the Hyper then worked progressively down. I am also finding that the Cyclo yellow pads with either the Hyper or the reg Opt Compound to be very effective if allowed to work long enough.



Anthony
 
Thanks for answering the question, but have one more for you. What brand pads are you using? Cyclo?



By the way, sorry for not mentioning this before. Great job! The scratch is completely gone!
 
Bence said:
Anthony, how aggressive is the Hyper with an orange pad (rotary/PC)?
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It can be rather aggressive if allowed to be worked for a period (Cyclo)...but it will leave behind some minor micro-marring so be prepared to deal with that.



With a rotary, in the case of this Porsche wetsanding, it made quick work of the 2000 grit marks with an LC micro-wool pad..5 inch.... It left behind some swirling which was removed easily with the OCP and the finishing pads.



I know I may sound like a broken record but again, the finer the pad/product the fewer the swirls.





JDookie said:
Thanks for answering the question, but have one more for you. What brand pads are you using? Cyclo?



By the way, sorry for not mentioning this before. Great job! The scratch is completely gone!
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Yep, Cyclo pads, and I also use a few of the LC finishing Cyclo pads, mainly their blue and white. I also use some other pads in some of my finishing work...but that's my little secret for now :D



Thanks for the compliment!



Anthony
 
I was able to remove 3000 grit marks with my PC and a cutting pad with SSR3, and some XP Compound...



Congrats on the scratch repair. :)
 
RRacer said:
GReat work Anthony, you didn´t fill the scracthc with any paint???



Akele abraço
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Thanks again for the kind words :)



Yes I did fill it in somewhat but not with pigmented paint as it is a metallic. Trying to fill in metallic paints can be very difficult because you can't match up the metallic flake...it will become even more of an eyesore.



So instead of pigmented paint I used just the clear...I layed down a few coatss and then wetsanded...allowing each coat to dry before wetsanding.



Anthony
 
Anthony Orosco said:
Thanks again for the kind words :)



Yes I did fill it in somewhat but not with pigmented paint as it is a metallic. Trying to fill in metallic paints can be very difficult because you can't match up the metallic flake...it will become even more of an eyesore.



So instead of pigmented paint I used just the clear...I layed down a few coatss and then wetsanded...allowing each coat to dry before wetsanding.



Anthony
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Nice tip :grinno:
 
Looks great, Anthony. Wetsanding is fun
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I'm so dam tired of wet sanding. The cold dry air and the water are just tearing up my hands.



Nice Work O. Wish I was there to help. Just a second. I was there! You must have done that while I was out getting your 2nd twelve pack Keystone :rofl
 
Dent's & Details said:
I'm so dam tired of wet sanding. The cold dry air and the water are just tearing up my hands.



Nice Work O. Wish I was there to help. Just a second. I was there! You must have done that while I was out getting your 2nd twelve pack Keystone :rofl
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How many times do I have to tell you!!?? :furious: It's Dos Equis!.....not Keystone... ya twit :LOLOL
 
Anthony -



I have been searching for a few hours, looking for threads on scratch repair - this one is most appropriate, so I figured I'd post in here. Long story short, yesterday with the 40+ mph winds we had, a sign blew across the fender, mirror, and top of the windshield on my '05 Boxster S. Needless to say, I was pretty frantic. The before pics I took yesterday, and today set about seeing what kind of correction I could do on my own before seeking professional opinions. I used SSR2 on a swirlbuster pad, followed up by Menzerna FPII, and resealed, just because its winter. It drastically reduced the major marring, etc, but there are still small, shallow clearcoat scratches that can be seen under light. I'm not happy with the result, I'd like to get it close to perfection as possible...I'd also like to avoid a respray. I'd love to hear your opinions, having wetsanded this scratch and perfecting it–*should I bite the bullet and do a 2000 sand, followed by polish to take these out? I dont use a rotary (PC), but I'm thinking of asking an old friend (bodyshop pro) to wetsand the panel to hopefully take these out. Any advice you or anyone can give would be appreciated. Nice job on the scratch as well - thats the result I want on this damage!



Before

before_fender.jpg


before_fender2.jpg


before_mirror.jpg


before_ws.jpg




After process above

after_fender.jpg


after_fender2.jpg


after_mirror.jpg


after_ws.jpg




Again - any advice would be appreciated. I want to avoid respray here - wondering if wetsand with or without a clear coat touchup would work. Thanks guys.
 
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