Wetsanding Marks

joshcaro

joshcaro

New member
Well today my headlights finally got on my nerves to the point where I decided to wetsand them. I started out with 800 and moved to 1000. Well after many goes with that combination, I noticed it hadnt done much to the headlights. It cleared them up some, but there were still a lot of weird looking bubbles on my headlights. So i decided to give 400, 800, and then 1000 a try. Well it helped out a lot, but there were still those bubble looking things. I was begining to think they werent coming out at all. Well I had one solution left. The 280 grit, 400, 800, and then 1000. Well after the first sanding with that combination everything was off! I was happy at that point. Well I started thinking how the heck am I going to get the marks left by the sandpaper off. I started out with a yellow propel pad and ssr 2.5. Well that cleared it up somewhat but there are still tons of wetsanding marks. I then tried IP with the yellow pad and that did nothing. Those two are my most abrasive products. What do you guys recommend? I do not have a rotary only a PC. Am I able to accomplish this task with the correct compound?
 
Thats some harsh sand paper you used on them headlights, i've never heard of anyone going so deep. I use 2000 first then go over it again with 3000 and i get them looking new everytime.

I would think the reason your having problems would be from the low grit paper leaving deep lines. I would try sanding it again working your way up to 2 or 3000 grit paper then rub them out. That should work but if it doesn't you need to find someone with a raotary and use a wool pad and cut into it.
 
Yea I hadnt planned on using that low of a grit, but it wasnt doing anything. No matter how hard or how long I rubbed it, it didnt do much for the headlights. So I should basically sand them once again, but use a higher grit specifically for the scratches the lower grit left?
 
I remember Sean doing a post of this once. I belive he went with mothers billet polish on them after the initial wetsand. After than he sealed them with the klasse twins. HTH

Greg
 
You said you went down to 280? I would go back to the 400 and spend some time with it. The marks from the 280 grit aren't going to come out easily. Then go up to 600, again take your time. Then perhaps 1000 and see how it is then.
 
joshcaro said:
Yea I hadnt planned on using that low of a grit, but it wasnt doing anything. No matter how hard or how long I rubbed it, it didnt do much for the headlights. So I should basically sand them once again, but use a higher grit specifically for the scratches the lower grit left?
Click to expand...

First off the higher grit you had (1000) would have done the same thing that the 250 girt did, only you would have had to work the 1000 grit longer to get the same results. And in the process you would have has finer scratches which are easier to get rid off.

Yes you want to sand them again. I would start with the 1000 you have work that for a little bit. Then rub them out to see your process. If there still there i would get some 1500 and 2000 girt paper and do the same thing.
 
Anyone ever use that stuff Sears sells?

I think it is called a rouge or something like that. My wifes uncle said that stuff works good...but im not sure if he is crazy or not :)
 
Ok today I went back over it with 1000 and it cleared up a lot. I was rather impressed, but there are still a fair amount of "scratches" left over. Now what would be my next step? Do I need to go down to 800 and then back up to 1000. Or do I go to 1500/2000?
 
Are they light or deep scratches that are left over? If they are deep try working that 1000 grit some more. If they are light then you need to use something higher to remove those. Whichever you still need to work your way up not down. I think autozone sells like a 6 pack of 3m wetsanding paper for a few bucks. Something like 800,1200,1800. For 2000 girt and higher you will most likely have to go to a paint supply store. Just work your way up till you can rub them all out.
 
They are fairly light. If you can your hand/nails across it you can barely feel them if at all. Well autozone/advanced auto is where I bought my sanding papers from and all I could find was the 280/400/800/1000 pack. I dont think I saw anything above 1000. I might have saw a pack of just 2000, but not sure. But since the scratches are light I should go up to 1500/1800/2000? After I have gone up I have no more use to go back down do I? Thanks for all the help!
 
joshcaro said:
They are fairly light. If you can your hand/nails across it you can barely feel them if at all. Well autozone/advanced auto is where I bought my sanding papers from and all I could find was the 280/400/800/1000 pack. I dont think I saw anything above 1000. I might have saw a pack of just 2000, but not sure. But since the scratches are light I should go up to 1500/1800/2000? After I have gone up I have no more use to go back down do I? Thanks for all the help!
Click to expand...


Ok if you can barely feel them, Sand them with 1500 for a bit then go over it again with 2000. Rub them out and you should be done. If you still see fine scratches you will need to get ahold of a rotary and use some compound at 2000-2500 rpm to get the heat up and work them out. I hope this will get you all fixed up.
 
Did you mean "go over it with 2000" instead of "go over it again with 2000"? I never used 2000 and didnt know if you typed it wrong and meant "go over it again with 1000"? Thanks for both of you guys help?
 
The "best" way to do it is to sit there with your finest grit paper until it's smooth and even. The fastest way is to work the steps again. I don't think going to 1500 or higher is going to help a lot. Granted 2.5 might have a tough time with 1000. bit u can buff out 500 scratch perfectly with the right compound. If your willing to take the time sit there with the 1000 and just keep going. Keep the paper wet and free of debree so it keeps cutting. Be patient and you'll get there. If your in a crunch get some tougher compound or go to 800 and step back up to 1000. There is always more than one way to get a job done. It's just weather you want to do it fast and easy with possibly very slighly worse results or take your time and have little to no chance for a bad result. The choice is yours.
 
Koop said:
There is always more than one way to get a job done. It's just weather you want to do it fast and easy with possibly very slighly worse results or take your time and have little to no chance for a bad result. The choice is yours.
Click to expand...

I'm not trying to start anything personal.....but like he said only in my words you have the right way or you have the half ass way. Both will work but with slightyly different results. You heard what i would do. That is all
 
No need to get personal. I think we are in agreeance. I was just noting that you could get it done the other way. I've been doing this work for years and when time is of the essance sometimes it's worth the sacrifice. When production is everything (and not being my own employer always this is sometimes forced) it's the only way to go. I've gotten pretty good at the "half ass" way. It can turn some great results. That being said quality is job 1 for me. On a far lighter note I think it's funny I spelled whether weather! lol. I need to read my posts b4 I hit submit.
 
I just cleaned up a nasty yellowed set of headlights today. I remove them from the car, wetsand with 1500 until they start to turn white/clear. I dried them and looked for shiny spots, or yellowing that I missed. I go over them again and dry. I use a buffing wheel on a bench grinder, just as you would polish aluminum. I use yellow plastic rouge, and run the lens over the wheel until it becomes clear. I also use the buffing wheel to remove scratches on instrument panel lenses. Looks like new.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top