Wetsanding a rattle can job

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efnfast

New member
I keep reading about rattle can paint jobs and am curious how it would come out, so I'm trying on a piece of scrap (no, I have no intention of painting any car like this, I'm just curious)



So I wetsanded the metal with 320 nice and smooth, then sprayed primer. let dry, wetsand, more primer, dry, wetsand, etc...



So now I'm ready for my top coat. Unfortunately I have no idea what to do here.



For example, should I spray, let dry for a day, then wetsand (??what grit??), then repeat 3 or 4 more times, then polish? Or some other steps?
 
Like 1800 to 1200 grit to finish. You have to sand after every coat. Paint is paint, if you are patient enough it can turn out as good as anything if you use gloss paint. The main downside to rattle can is the paint comes out too thick.
 
it's possible, don't go below 1500



You need to put down 5-6 layers of paint first though, spray paint leaves a very thin, uneven layer.





I'll post a DIY if you guys want a good rattle can DIY
 
Infraggable Kru said:
it's possible, don't go below 1500



You need to put down 5-6 layers of paint first though, spray paint leaves a very thin, uneven layer.





I'll post a DIY if you guys want a good rattle can DIY
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I'd be interested in reading it - a lot of the stuff I found from searching is so undescriptive it isn't even funny.
 
Top Paint guns atomize paint, rattle cans do not. It will be much harder to use the can, I would roll it before I'd rattle it. Either way it is "possible". To roll it just dilute with 20% mineral spirits. Gloss Rattle = runs. Flat rattle = ratty looking job.
 
MBurnickas said:
Top Paint guns atomize paint, rattle cans do not. It will be much harder to use the can, I would roll it before I'd rattle it. Either way it is "possible". To roll it just dilute with 20% mineral spirits. Gloss Rattle = runs. Flat rattle = ratty looking job.
Click to expand...

I use rattle cans all the time for spot repairs (mirrors, front/rear bumpers, body side moldings and ground effects mouldings) on 2001 Grand Prix. Great results. The process is the key. First you need to use basecoat and clearcoat system. Get a quality supplier and order by colour code (helps match colour). Most important part is prep of the surface. Sand with whatever it takes to level surface. Use filler putty to level and then sand to 600 grit. Next apply a filler primer (2 coats). Sand 800 grit. Apply minimum 2 coats basecoat. Let dry minimum 30 minutes. Sand 800-1000 grit. At this point you are looking for uniform and complete coverage for colour only ( surface will be dull). Next up 3 coats of clearcoat (try to get nice even wet coats allowing 15 minutes dry time between coats). If runs or orange peel appear don't worry. Allow to dry 24 hours. Wet sand 1200-1500 grit until paper sounds like it is not grating surface and any runs are levelled (at this stage if any colour defects show up, respray colour and clear coat steps). Compound and polish to factory finish. Wait 30 days to wax or seal. Expert results every time guaranteed.
 
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