Wet Sanding

T

Tim0808

New member
I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado storm grey, its a very nice truck lifted with wheels and tires. I'm thinking about wet sanding it. I have never really wet sanded much before but I've been around a bodyshop quite a bit so I don't think I would have to much trouble. I already have a rotary buffer and know how to use so that part shouldn't be a problem.

The paint is really in pretty good shape I'm just looking to give it a real smooth shine. If their are any good links maybe even videos that you guys know of please post them up about choosing the right sandpaper and such. Thanks
 
Tim0808 said:
I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado storm grey, its a very nice truck lifted with wheels and tires. I'm thinking about wet sanding it. I have never really wet sanded much before but I've been around a bodyshop quite a bit so I don't think I would have to much trouble. I already have a rotary buffer and know how to use so that part shouldn't be a problem.

The paint is really in pretty good shape I'm just looking to give it a real smooth shine. If their are any good links maybe even videos that you guys know of please post them up about choosing the right sandpaper and such. Thanks
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DON'T DO IT!! STEP AWAY FROM THE SANDING PAPER...



You say you have little to no experience sanding then you by no means are qualified or should even be thinking about sanding an entire car. This is not some simple job anyone who knows how to use a buffer can do.



BTW, I've seen plenty of high end paint shops not even know how to do it correctly and finish down new paint jobs looking hazy and dull.



If the paint is good now leave it be and just keep buffing on it.



Josh
 
JoshVette said:
DON'T DO IT!! STEP AWAY FROM THE SANDING PAPER...



You say you have little to no experience sanding then you by no means are qualified or should even be thinking about sanding an entire car. This is not some simple job anyone who knows how to use a buffer can do.



BTW, I've seen plenty of high end paint shops not even know how to do it correctly and finish down new paint jobs looking hazy and dull.



If the paint is good now leave it be and just keep buffing on it.



Josh
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I think you can be taught to wetsand with just a few pointers from a professional. If you can find someone who is willing to shop you the ropes on one body panel, and help explain the steps for the rest, you should be able to pick it up. However keep in mind that wetsanding a full size truck will EASILY take a week of straight work. Wetsanding is not hard work, just very tedious and time consuming. Best of luck.





John
 
I do not understand - why on earth would you wet sand unless you have alot of orange peel. Joshvette has it right.



DON'T DO IT!! STEP AWAY FROM THE SANDING PAPER...



With proper finessing - your paint should look perfect - no wetsanding required.

The only time anyone should do any wetsanding is with orange peel or to get dirt out of fresh paint. When you sand you are removing clear. If you are even questioning or have no experience, then I strongly advise against it.



That's my story & I'm stickin' to it.
 
automedix said:
With proper finessing - your paint should look perfect - no wetsanding required.
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Not sure if you read this properly. The truck is a Chevy, not an Aston Martin. Orangepeel galore. I do agree with you that it can be risky to wetsand as you can go through the paint. If properly trained, just sanding down with 2000 grit will make a dramatic difference.





John
 
JohnKleven said:
Not sure if you read this properly. The truck is a Chevy, not an Aston Martin. Orangepeel galore. I do agree with you that it can be risky to wetsand as you can go through the paint. If properly trained, just sanding down with 2000 grit will make a dramatic difference.





John
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John, you're really making it sound a lot easier then it is, we're not talking about a mere deep scratch or key marks or what have you.



We're talking about an entire vehicle and knowing what to understand and look for when removing orange peel. It is very much a skilled art that cannot just simply be picked up with "proper training".



No offense, but have you ever fully sanded an entire vehicle before to remove orange peel?



Josh
 
I have to agree with Josh DON'T DO IT. It takes alot more than just a few pointers from a pro. If you really want to try it get a scrap hood or door and PRACTICE on that FIRST. Good luck Joe
 
jtford95 said:
I have to agree with Josh DON'T DO IT. It takes alot more than just a few pointers from a pro. If you really want to try it get a scrap hood or door and PRACTICE on that FIRST. Good luck Joe
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I agree, get a hood and at least one fender as the hoods are typically flat but most fenders have curves in them that you will need to learn on so you don't sand through the paint on an edge or whatever.



Josh
 
JohnKleven said:
I have done many full wetsands. I still think a competent detailer can pick it up fairly easily if pointed in the right direction. You can certainly spot sand an area, and if you like the results, proceed further. Here is one I did recently.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-details-before-after/128795-1957-thunderbird-full-wetsand.html



John
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Nice job on that Tbird John.



A competent detailer yes, if trained should be able to pick it up yes, but I dont' think that's the case in this thread... I'm assuming the OP is not a detailer I don't know, he said he can use a buffer??? but what does that mean compared to what?



That's why I'm taking more caution when talking with him about it. I don't know his skills other then he said he's never sanded before so to take on an entire car with OP removal is a bit much for a beginner. IMO



Josh
 
JoshVette said:
Nice job on that Tbird John.



A competent detailer yes, if trained should be able to pick it up yes, but I dont' think that's the case in this thread... I'm assuming the OP is not a detailer I don't know, he said he can use a buffer??? but what does that mean compared to what?



That's why I'm taking more caution when talking with him about it. I don't know his skills other then he said he's never sanded before so to take on an entire car with OP removal is a bit much for a beginner. IMO



Josh
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:hifive: I agree!
 
If youa re going to wetsand make sure you have some good paper. I wouldn't suggest using anything stronger than 2000 grit. Megs makes excellent "Unigrit" paper.



Make sure you clay the paint first so nothing can get stuck in the paper.



Get a good backing pad for the paper so it is nice and even on flat surfaces.



Have a bucket with soap and water so you can soak the paper for atleast thirty minutes before using.



have a bottle with a heavy soap and water mixure to keep the surface very slick.



Your sanding strokes should be in one direction keeping away from any edges and peaks.



check your work often by wiping the surface dry, you will be able to see how far you have gone down by looking at the scratches and swirls. For a first timer I wouldn't go any deeper than leaving a few of the deeper scratches. You can always step it down with a compound.



Take your time and concentrate on the flat large surfaces.



After 2000 and the correction you need, you can go over it again with 2500 and then even 3000. This will save you time when it comes to compounding the sanding marks outs.



I wetsand all the time. On cars with heavy scratches and rids I would rather sand then go over it three or four times with a compound. The 2000, 2500, and 3000 grit papers can less agressive than some of the compound on the market as long as you are not going back and forth with a heavy motion and keeping the paint lubed well with the soap and water mixture.



A lot of the advice on here is good advice. they just don't want to see you screw up your paint. But until you just go for it you will never have done it or learned how to do it. If you ahve any questions you can PM me and I will be happy to help. It is not nearly as scary as it seems as long as you are using non-aggresive paper and taking your time, all the while checking your work.



Now if you break out the 1000 grit paper and freak out on your paint like your sanding the picknic table you will have trouble. Just be carefull
 
fergnation said:
If youa re going to wetsand make sure you have some good paper. I wouldn't suggest using anything stronger than 2000 grit. Megs makes excellent "Unigrit" paper.



Make sure you clay the paint first so nothing can get stuck in the paper.



Get a good backing pad for the paper so it is nice and even on flat surfaces.



Have a bucket with soap and water so you can soak the paper for atleast thirty minutes before using.



have a bottle with a heavy soap and water mixure to keep the surface very slick.



Your sanding strokes should be in one direction keeping away from any edges and peaks.



check your work often by wiping the surface dry, you will be able to see how far you have gone down by looking at the scratches and swirls. For a first timer I wouldn't go any deeper than leaving a few of the deeper scratches. You can always step it down with a compound.



Take your time and concentrate on the flat large surfaces.



After 2000 and the correction you need, you can go over it again with 2500 and then even 3000. This will save you time when it comes to compounding the sanding marks outs.



I wetsand all the time. On cars with heavy scratches and rids I would rather sand then go over it three or four times with a compound. The 2000, 2500, and 3000 grit papers can less agressive than some of the compound on the market as long as you are not going back and forth with a heavy motion and keeping the paint lubed well with the soap and water mixture.



A lot of the advice on here is good advice. they just don't want to see you screw up your paint. But until you just go for it you will never have done it or learned how to do it. If you ahve any questions you can PM me and I will be happy to help. It is not nearly as scary as it seems as long as you are using non-aggresive paper and taking your time, all the while checking your work.



Now if you break out the 1000 grit paper and freak out on your paint like your sanding the picknic table you will have trouble. Just be carefull
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Good Response Ferg! I agree with Jon Klevin here. I think anyone can be taught to wetsand if they have the proper teacher and patience.
 
i am also from the "i would rather sand, then compound multiple times" school. i have done tons of hoods, trucks, roofs that were severely damaged and only did one booboo. of course i learned from that mistake and now know another thing i have to look for.



for those sanding factory clear, never go past the lowest spot. that mean once you see the orange peel disappear, stop. you might not have a perfectly flat finish but it will be a heck of a lot better. i see a lot of orange peel on base coat with factory finishes and you just cant do much about it.
 
Speaking as somebody who can wetsand OK (though not like some people here by a long shot!), and as somebody who can get the marks out OK too, and as a GM truck owner....



Yeah, the orange peel on GM full size trucks/SUVs is awful. Yeah, the clear is nice and thick. That said..



No way I'd recommend that he do it.



Even if things go OK (gonna keep your concentration on-task 100% for all those hours? Gonna spend all that time period?), unless you're careful you'll take off so much clear that you'll have to watch doing correction on it in the future, at least in some places.



And before somebody starts :argue about it (heh heh, :wavey Hi ya Barry! :chuckle: )... yeah, I did sand a few spots on my Yukon and I've taken measurements and sure, some people oughta go for it if they want to. But I still vote "NO" in this case. In part because there are some topics, like this one, where I truly believe that "if you have to ask somebody else's opinion, then you shouldn't try it on anything you care about". And I sure hope that doesn't sound condescending, because that's not what I'm trying to get across at all.
 
Well I think you guys talked me out of wetsanding my truck. I'll just stick with the 3M compound, machine polish, and the ultrafina machine polish on my rotary.
 
Tim0808 said:
Well I think you guys talked me out of wetsanding my truck. I'll just stick with the 3M compound, machine polish, and the ultrafina machine polish on my rotary.
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Good call, if the orange peel is still bugging you after all that, I say go get a few fenders and practice practice practice till you're very confident and then attempt it on your beloved vehicle.



Josh
 
Tim0808 said:
Well I think you guys talked me out of wetsanding my truck. I'll just stick with the 3M compound, machine polish, and the ultrafina machine polish on my rotary.
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Smart move IMO.



Which 3M Compound, the PI-3000 stuff? IME it'll take a few passes for that to really correct the GM clear, so watch you don't switch to the Machine Polish too soon.
 
if you decide to go ahead and wet sand it, go to your body shop and use their paint thickness gauge to make sure you will not strike through your clear. On top of that use plenty of tape where any surface is not even/flat. Even with 2000 grit you can hit primer in a heartbeat.
 
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