Wet sanded, polished, glazed and waxed. About 30 hour of work!

So does that mean there is no longer any clear coat left on that car, and if so, does that also mean that whenever you polish the car you will now have paint transfer ?
 
Axe,



No there is still clear coat left on the car. I didn't sand THAT much out! I only took off the tops of the orange peel "hills" to bring them down to the same level as the "valleys" if that makes sense. The idea is to level the paint and bring out the shine. Remove some clearcoat WILL reduce depth but that can't be avoided.



-Charles
 
when I see the hot rod guys painting their cars I always see them color sand after their paint is sprayed and then again after the clear is laid down. That way they flatten the paint, spray the clear, then smooth out the clear. It seems like you could cut through the clear getting the peaks level on a factory paint job. Plus those guys lay down a lot more coats of paint and clear since they end up removing a coat or two each time.
 
Escotch said:
when I see the hot rod guys painting their cars I always see them color sand after their paint is sprayed and then again after the clear is laid down. That way they flatten the paint, spray the clear, then smooth out the clear. It seems like you could cut through the clear getting the peaks level on a factory paint job. Plus those guys lay down a lot more coats of paint and clear since they end up removing a coat or two each time.
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That's not any type of paint though. It's probaly a single stage urethane (very expensive).



The acrylic's used for most modern cars are of a two stage variety and if you sand the base coat before applying the clear the cleat won't bond properly.



That is to say one is meant to go right on top of the other within a specifed "window" of time.
 
MorBid, what if the basecoat is not applied evenly and will it affect how the clearcoat level? If each layer is properly sanded/levelled, it makes sense to produce a flat finish, provided proper adhesion is possible.
 
zey said:
MorBid, what if the basecoat is not applied evenly and will it affect how the clearcoat level? If each layer is properly sanded/levelled, it makes sense to produce a flat finish, provided proper adhesion is possible.
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You hit the nail right on the head "adhesion" .



Sure there are many probelms that can arise when painting a car esp in the basecoat (too many to name here) but they usually arise from



a) improper preperation of the substate



b) improper mixing of the paint (base coats are "thinned" according to the manufacture's spec's)



c) improper air adjustment at the gun or oil in the air line



d) paint did not lay correctly (bad technique)



and these all require different methods of repair and you may have to wait until the base coat dries, sand the affected areas to remove the defect and then sand then rest of the car because the clear coat was meant to "adhere" to the basecoat within a specified amount of time and it's not like a day or so either more like in less than a hour but it depends on the ambient temperature.



Let the base coat set up too long before applying the clear coat and you will have to sand it in order to promote adhesion but your just making more work for yourself.



I guess what I'm trying to say is that when painting a car with a base/clear coat system the idea is for the clear to follow the base after the sufficent flash time (again specified by the manufactuer) has passed.



Your not supposed to sand the base coat (the manufactiuer will even specify this) and there is nothing to gain by doing so and the only reason why one would need to is if there is a probelm



You won't get anymore shine or depth out of sanding the base coat because the base coat was never meant to shine in the first place that's what the clear coat does. The base is just the color and is suppose to cover the panels evenly as you said.



Again this is when using a base and clear coat system. If your painting with acrylic urethane enamel or some other type of single stage paint then you color sand after painting because there is no clear coat part to the system.

After you get done sanding you polish and the shine comes out



Or you can sand, and paint again to your hearts content.



But I don't know many people who paint using those systems at home as they are very un-forgiving as far as application (you really need to know how to paint a car) and they should be sprayed in a booth.



Sorry for the long answer
 
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