Waxing car after Painting

bigge31566

New member
Im ready to wax and seal my truck after I painted it trying to see what would give me the best protection and, I called Chemical Guys and they recommended jet seal and the [FONT=&quot] Black Luminous Glow Infusion wax any ideas on this and are there better products[/FONT]
 
It is my understanding that paint should cure for about 30 days prior to using a wax or sealant. Someone else care to confirm?

And a question like "which wax..." will get you a ton of different opinions. But a question for you is, what do you want the wax to do? Last long, provide a glow, easy on/off, etc...
 
The whole "should I wax a fresh repaint?" thing has been debated since forever! David Fermani and I have, uhm..debated..the subject at length :D

I wait at least 90 days just to ensure that it attains max potential hardness as I`ve experienced the hardening continue to happen for that long.

BUT...I now use OCW on fresh repaints based on Ford`s testing/approval of it on "post-production paintwork" as they called it. No problems at all, so I`ve *finally* retired my beloved M05 (and my less-beloved 3M IHG) after so many decades. But I sure won`t apply something like FK1000P until I`m certain the repaint has finished curing/outgassing.
 
How long has it been since it was painted? Was a heated paint booth used? What kind of paint was used? The length of time is based on many variables ...

I personally wait 30 days for a wax / sealant and polish within the first few weeks unless the shop does it before giving it to you.
 
How long has it been since it was painted? Was a heated paint booth used? What kind of paint was used? The length of time is based on many variables ...

I personally wait 30 days for a wax / sealant and polish within the first few weeks unless the shop does it before giving it to you.

great info to consider

the body shop recommended I wait 90 days before `waxing` my metallic black when my front bumper was replaced
 
When I last painted, we would paint, dry with heat lamps and outside once the top layer was hard, then colorsand, and compound new paint, and then apply Meguiars Nbr7 Show Car Glaze to it..
The Meguiars Glaze would not seal in the paint and would actually come off easily by the next wash or heavy rain...
I still believe today, that as long as you can smell the paint fumes coming from the paintwork, it is still curing from the bottom layer up to the top and gone..

Notice how when you purchase a new car from the Dealership - they never smell like new paint???
They have dried them in heat and then the cars sat outside for months in the sun curing even more...

So, hope this helps answer your question..
Dan F
 
When I last painted, we would paint, dry with heat lamps and outside once the top layer was hard, then colorsand, and compound new paint, and then apply Meguiars Nbr7 Show Car Glaze to it..
The Meguiars Glaze would not seal in the paint and would actually come off easily by the next wash or heavy rain...
I still believe today, that as long as you can smell the paint fumes coming from the paintwork, it is still curing from the bottom layer up to the top and gone..

Notice how when you purchase a new car from the Dealership - they never smell like new paint???
They have dried them in heat and then the cars sat outside for months in the sun curing even more...

So, hope this helps answer your question..
Dan F

That`s about what we did too, but we used 3M ;) The heating and quality of the paint can be a large factor ..

New vehicles even right off the line don`t smell as their process is so much better than most after market painting ..

I know a guy who went to Bowling Green to pick up his new Vette (no not Ron) and his car was ready for waxing .. I also have a friend who was a manager of the HD plant in MO. and he was great for insight ...
 
Just had my hood repainted after a little accident. My body shop uses BASF clear that comes with a lifetime warranty. The pamphlet from BASF regarding the warranty states to not wax/seal the paint for 30 days.
 
If you`re looking for durability, self cleaning and protection from birdbomb/insect etching I`d suggest FK1000p!!
 
Is that M05 or 205

M05 ("em-oh-five"), product name = New Car Glaze, made specifically for uncured/outgassing paint, sold for many decades (starting back before new cars were "baked"). Most user-friendly detailing product ever, but washes right off so needs reapplied every wash.
 
If you`re looking for durability, self cleaning and protection from birdbomb/insect etching I`d suggest FK1000p!!
Absolutely....but not until the repaint is at least 90 days old ;)

IMO, if any LSP could mess with the curing/outgassing, then FK1000P would be the one.
 
Just had my hood repainted after a little accident. My body shop uses BASF clear that comes with a lifetime warranty. The pamphlet from BASF regarding the warranty states to not wax/seal the paint for 30 days.

At least that shop *reads* the product info (and passes it along no less).

I`ve had to *tell* painters (good painters too!) about such stuff; they know how to thin/reduce/spray paint but that was it, never studied up on "stuff that isn`t part of their job".

(No, Mike/Jeff/John/Zack...not you guys.)
 
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