Wax stripping.

A

alloutdetailing

New member
Ok so I know it's common practice to remove all wax from the finish before polishing a car. I know this because it's the Autopia way. Now my question is....... Why is it so important to remove the wax from a car before polishing?





Another question is. Have you guys noticed how 205 is so much easier to wipe off over 105? It is just me or is 205 much oilier?
 
Highrev1 said:
Why polish the wax and not the paint or clear itself...Thats why strip it....:D
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Yeah that came to mind! IDK maybe i'll take a test panel and see what the diffrence will be like. Just asked to see what all you people have to say,
 
Polishing is really labor intensive and doing it takes a lot of time and effort. If you're going to be putting time into it you should do it right the first time. Not only will the results be better but you'll be doing your car a favor. It's not like polishing takes a whole lot off the clear (depending on your method) but why do you want to whack away at it and not get the best results possible? The whole idea of polishing is to remove imperfections and restore paint gloss. Why let the wax get in the way.
 
alloutdetailing said:
Ok so I know it's common practice to remove all wax from the finish before polishing a car. I know this because it's the Autopia way. Now my question is....... Why is it so important to remove the wax from a car before polishing?
Click to expand...



It may be the "Autopian Way", but I'm not above some Autopian Heresy ;)



IMO most of the time you *DO NOT* need to strip off the wax before you polish. Other pre-polishing tasks (e.g., claying, super-shampooing) might take most of it off anyhow, but generally if the polish will cut off *paint* it'll cut right through the LSP too.



In very rare instances, the LSP can resist the polishing, and/or gum or load up the pad. In those rare cases, it *might* be enough of an issue that you'd wish you'd compromised the LSP first. I can think of two specific instances where that happened to me (once with heavily layered KSG, once with Collinite 476S). But gee, that's twice and I've been polishing cars for decades.



OK, if you're planning to do some burnishing with FPII/blue pad, and you have a healthy LSP on there, then strip it. But eh, if I had a healthy LSP on a car I wouldn't polish it anyhow.

Another question is. Have you guys noticed how 205 is so much easier to wipe off over 105? It is just me or is 205 much oilier?
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Right, there *is* a big diff between the two products in that regard.



M105 is a much heavier product with less oil/carrier agent content. Plus, it's grittier (more friction when you try to buff it off) and it'll be loaded with cut-off paint.



BTW, remember that those products don't break down, so when you buff them off they're still cutting, and with fewer oils/etc. to buffer that cut too. This is especially important to remember with M105, which I hardly *ever* buff off without a spritz of #34 or something similar.
 
I just did my first ever polishing this past week and I got off the wax, even the WGDG sealant that I applied just the day before (didn't like the results) with IPA and a MF pad plus two minutes of light rubbing. Maybe I'm wrong here but it was the easiest thing I did all day. Seemed like a coffee break compared to all the washing, claying, taping and multiple polishing steps. LOL.
 
When I want to go back down to the clear coat , I just use a healthy concentration of Dawn dish soap in my bucket , wash it then do a 50/50 water ipa wipe down. I then use the zip lock gig, place your fingers in a zip lock bag,lightly feel the paint finish in different areas,especially the horizontal surfaces, If I find any impurities I will break out the clay bar ,followed by another ipa wipe down.

There are sum decent paint cleaners out there to that are good, Meguiars makes a good one, but I clay bar first. :)
 
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