Water spots

I

imported_Greg

New member
These ones are bad. I used vinegar first (50/50). Then I used Medallion Paint Cleaner (cutting pad), then AIO (polishing pad)with a PC. The surface is very smooth and shiny, but the water spots remain. Any suggestions for what to try next? The car is a beige 1998 Honda Accord.
 
i had the same problem, and found a solution.. i tried SMR and that didn't even work.. next step was FI-II with a PC and cutting pad... that took them right out.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Dr. Jones [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>i had the same problem, and found a solution.. i tried SMR and that didn't even work.. next step was FI-II with a PC and cutting pad... that took them right out. [/b]</blockquote>
Nice choice in product to do a hard job. I also wanted to throw in that Perfect-IT III is out and it is much less dusty and easier to clean then it's older brother Perfect-IT II.

One thing people can do to rid themselves of water spots is to use steel wool. You would not want to use anything larger then "000" grade or even better would be "0000" grade. You can get it at any high volume home improvment store. Use a nice dab of car shampoo to lubricate the area being worked and use nice back and forth strokes to rid the surface of the little buggers.
 
DK Mobile, I disagree, 2000 grit sandpaper is much better and easier to use product than steel wool, when removing water spots that have etched into the paint.



FI-II=Finisse it-II, and it is not the same product as Perfect it-II.
 
Dr. Jones... I just want to confirm I'll be using the right product... 3Mâ„¢ Finesse-itâ„¢ II Finishing Material 39003... correct?
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Andre' [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>DK Mobile, I disagree, 2000 grit sandpaper is much better and easier to use product than steel wool, when removing water spots that have etched into the paint.

FI-II=Finisse it-II, and it is not the same product as Perfect it-II. [/b]</blockquote>
Sorry, let me clearify, I did not mean on paint! Just exterior glass. Man, I must have missed the boat on the thread. I agree, wet-sandpaper for paint!

Sorry if I misstated in my reply...
 
:nono I would not use steel wool on glass, todays automotive glass is much soft for steel wool, you can scratch the hell out of automotive glass with steel wool.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Alan B [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Dr. Jones... I just want to confirm I'll be using the right product... 3Mâ„¢ Finesse-itâ„¢ II Finishing Material 39003... correct? [/b]</blockquote>
Yup.. that's the right stuff.
 
What a wienie I was.....my worn wiper blade had etched a streak in my windshield, so I tried to scotchbrite it out.



Now that wiper blade streak is the least of my problems- the scotchbrite scratched my windshield!



Now what? Should I try 2000 grit sandpaper? Or is there something else I should try? Steel wool? I'm assuming this is some sort of steel wool different from a Brillo pad, right?
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Andre' [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>:nono I would not use steel wool on glass, todays automotive glass is much soft for steel wool, you can scratch the hell out of automotive glass with steel wool. [/b]</blockquote>
Sorry Andre' but I disagree with you. I'm not the only person that uses this technique. It works very well and the proof is in the eye. I have yet to scratch any glass I've ever done, whether on my own vehicles or customers of my business. Steel wool of the correct grade is just as gentle as a mild abrasive (compound, or polish) and it's cheaper then using a fine quality compound or polish too. It amazes me when I read a thread about someone scratching the glass of the car they are working on.

But not to get into an argument, that's not my goal. There are many ways to get a good if not great end result. It all boils down to comfort level and what works for each person. I've come to learn that keeping an open mind has helped me over the years, and I pick up great tips and tricks all the time.

Best regards...
 
My wife came to me and asked that I remove the hard water spots on her sun-roof on her SUV. I took a look and said no trouble. It should take about 30 minutes and you'll be off and running to the mall and enjoying the Pacific Northwest sunny weather.



I took my Porter Cable and mixed some SMR (for dark colors) and a yellow polishing pad from Meguiar's to task. It made no dent. So I did what everyone seems to think is incorrect and wrong. I took "0000" steel wool and a bit of Final Inspection for lubricant and began in straight back and forth motion to rub the glass sun-roof. After about 10 minutes of rubbing the spots were reduced about 80%.



Next I took my rotary buffer and a yellow Meguiar's polishing pad, set the speed at 1250 with a bit of SMR Dark and finished it off. Due to having a mobile detailing business I have portable florecent lights on stands and from every angle I could, I checked for scratches in the glass. There were NONE! To further prove my point, I rinsed the glass with a 50/50 mix of alcohol-water and a MF towel. Again no scratches present.



My point, the Porter Cable is a great little polishing tool, but not a good choice in removing the hard imperfections that can arise on a vehicle finish. Steel wool is just fine on automotive glass, taking into account that it is of the correct grade. Key work "grade". Going to the rotary was really not nessesary, but I wanted to be perfect for the wife. If I had skipped that step and went right to Klasse AIO it would have looked just as good.
 
I used Griots Machine Polish #2, followed by Machine Polish #3 and a Porter Cable for removing any etched waterspots, then a coat of wax.



Preventive: After drying the car, using Speed Shine quick detail spray eliminates any water spots that dried before I got a chance to dry the area.
 
We have very hard water and I sometimes end up with hard water stains on the glass. Meg#20 or Nu-Finish have always taken them out.



On paint, sometimes you may get etching that looks like hard water spots. When they're bad enough (etching spots) nothing short of repainting will fix. I've seen a lot of people mistake etching for water spotting.
 
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